To quote a line from the Mahabharat:
निर्वनो वध्यते व्याघ्रो निर्व्याघ्रं छिद्यते वनम्। तस्माद्व्याघ्रो वनं रक्षेद्वयं व्याघ्रं च पालयेत् ॥
महाभारत – उद्योग पर्व : ५.२९.५७
"If there is no forest, then the tiger gets
killed; If there is no tiger, then the forest gets destroyed. Hence, the tiger
protects the forest and the forest guards the tiger!"
– Mahabharat - Udyog Parva: 5.29.57.
More than two and a half thousand years ago, this wisdom prevailed.
Tigers are majestic and charismatic animals, embodying raw strength
and captivating beauty while playing a vital role in maintaining a healthy
ecosystem. They are apex predators that keep the numbers of herbivores in
check, which in turn prevents these prey species from overgrazing the plants
upon which countless other life forms depend. Tiger landscapes, especially forests, can store significant amounts of
carbon, contributing to climate change mitigation efforts. Tigers are a symbol
of natural power and awe, inspiring respect and admiration.
When Nature India announced their trip to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in
the summer of 2025, the allure was irresistible. I have always had a primal
instinct to push myself to parts of the planet where I could experience
raw nature. It is here that I feel most alive! The day finally arrived and I
was on my way to Bandhavgarh. We were a small group of seven including Anjali,
Amit, Nidhi, Nirmala, Hema, myself and Mandar who, over the next three days,
would guide us and share interesting anecdotes about Bandhavgarh and its
legendary tigers.
As we alighted from the Duronto Express at Satna, the dry forty
degrees heat jolted us out of the airconditioned comfort of our sixteen-hour
journey from Mumbai. Soon we were on our way to the Aranyak Resort in Tala. At
the resort, Ram, their manager welcomed us and as most resorts do, we were
offered a warm welcome with a cool drink of Roohafzah and some refreshing cold
towels after which a sumptuous lunch awaited us. As we savoured our meal that
afternoon, Mandar had an idea. We could do a night safari if everyone agreed! How
could anyone disagree?
We spent the afternoon after lunch, in our A/C rooms. Anjali my dear
friend, constant companion and birding buddy was my room-mate. Amit and Mandar,
Nirmal and Nidhi, and Hema - everyone checked in to their respective rooms,
eagerly waiting for our nocturnal jaunt into the forest.
Like all other tiger reserves in India, Bandhavgarh National Park is
divided into the Core Zone and Buffer Zone. Although the total area of the Core
zone is about 716 sq. km., only about 20% of this area is open for tourists. The
Core zone comprises Tala, Magadhi and Khitauli areas and Buffer zones are Dhamokhar,
Johilla and Panpatha which is about 820 sq kms which makes the total area of
the park about 1536 sq km. Night safaris are offered only in the Buffer zones. We
were to take the Panpatha route.
The open Gypsy jeeps arrived at the resort at 7
pm. We had two jeeps amongst seven of us, which would take their individual
routes once inside the forest. By the time we reached the forest entrance,
darkness had set in. A cool breeze blew into our faces. The day’s sweltering
heat had subsided and the cool night provided much relief. The waxing gibbous moon
had lit up the night sky. It would be full in another two days. The sharp ‘did-you-do-it’
call of the Red Wattled Lapwings broke the silence of the night. Indian
Nightjar’s accelerated ‘chuk-chuk-chuk-chuk-k-k-k-roo’ and Savannah Nightjar’s
sharp calls transformed the forest into something mystical. As our jeep rolled
unhurriedly on the dusty forest floor, clumps of tall bamboo grasses stood like
sentinels in the stillness of the night. The shadows of the Sal (Shorearobusta)
trees lining our path created mysterious shapes. As the head lights of our jeep
lit up the path ahead of us, our Gypsy driver Monu stepped on the brakes all of
a sudden. He had spotted a Mottled Wood Owl! The curious bird looked at us questioningly,
his large shining eyes glaring down at us. I stared back in awe at his white facial
disc with concentric black barring and some rufous-orange mottling. An old
nursery rhyme came to mind:
“A wise old owl sat on an oak,
The more he saw the less he spoke.
The less he spoke, the more he heard.
Why can’t we all be like the wise old bird?”
Owls are mostly nocturnal, often crepuscular
birds. They are impressive predators and have huge eyes, two times larger than
other bird species of their size, giving them the ability to see in the dark.
They hunt using stealth as they can fly without their wings making a sound. The
curiosity of the owl having waned, he soon took off as we watched him disappear
into the night.
We continued driving listening to the sounds
of the forest. The leaves of the Sal trees gently rustled in the light breeze
as the Nightjars continued their constant melody. All of a sudden, I noticed
some movement a little ahead of our jeep, and thought I saw something like a
tiny black and white peacock! Was the darkness of the night playing with my
imagination? It was only after we stopped and looked carefully that I noticed
it was a porcupine! Threatened by our proximity, it had fanned out its quills
as a defence mechanism. It quickly turned and scampered off into the bushes.
Along the way Monu stopped at a small fenced
forest outpost to have a chat with the forest guard on duty. I took the
opportunity to request a loo break. The loo break turned out to be a lucky
break for us! Five minutes later we were to encounter this beautiful tigress,
the Panihayi female! Her presence took us by surprise. The tigress lay at the
edge of the path thirty metres ahead of our jeep. Unafraid, but a bit startled,
she stared as us with alert, gleaming eyes. She then coolly rose to her feet and
walked across the path lit by our headlights and lay down behind a large tree with
her head behind its trunk to shield her eyes from the beams of our headlights. Although
we couldn’t see her face, the shades of tan and black that could be seen in the
dark forest were enough to excite us. Then, just as we thought of leaving her
to rest, she rose to her feet once again and started walking towards us. She
was now in clear view! As she walked majestically along the path ahead of us, my
eyes followed her in amazement till she melted into the dark forest. The jeep
with the other four members of our group had also spotted her and were waiting
at some distance behind her. We were all excited to have seen the first tiger
of our trip. And it was Anjali’s first tiger sighting ever! What a way to open
your account, Anjali!
Bandhavgarh is one of the most impressive tiger reserves in the world.
It derives its name from the fort of Bandhavgarh. This incredible forest’s
history is entwined with that of the kings of the Rewa dynasty. Steeped in
legend, these forests actually presented the world with the progenitors of all
white tigers alive today. The forest, in times gone by, was a private hunting
reserve of the Maharaja of Rewa.
That night, my dreams were of the Panihayi tigress. I woke up to the
sublime tune of “ik omkar” my alarm ringtone at 3.30 the next morning. We
were to leave the resort by 4.45 to be on time to enter the Tala zone of reserve
at the designated time of 5.30 am.
Just outside the Tala gate, as we waited for the formalities to be
completed, I noticed a couple of spotted owlets curiously looking down at us
from their perch on a large tree. These owlets have made the tree outside the
Tala gate their home and visitors to the park are regaled by the tiny pair. The
moment we crossed the entry point, we were transported into a mystical land.
Dawn is a magical time…. the play of light and shade, the cool fragrant air,
the sound of rustling leaves… it was an enchanting place. Red wattled lapwings scampered across our
path anxiously calling out their signature “did-you-do-it”. A lone Indian Thick
knee stood motionless in a clearing a little ahead. Red Jungle fowl pecked at
the leaf littered forest floor for seeds and small insects, unmoved by our
presence. Amongst clumps of tall bamboo, a herd of spotted deer gingerly raised
their heads as our Gypsy rattled along the dusty path. Groups of grey langurs sat
like old men, bellies out, legs splayed, basking in the rising sun falling
gently on their faces. The red leaves of the mahua trees glistened in the sun’s
rays. The forest resounded with the calls of parakeets, rufous treepies and
coppersmith barbets. The crackling call of the Stork-billed kingfisher pierced
the air. And just a few minutes in, we hear it, “wheet-teuu”! The Indian Pitta! The
call is unmistakeable. It is the beginning of their breeding season. The Pitta
is known by various names across India – Navrangi, Hariyo, Bornali….. It’s also
called ‘aru-mani kuruvi’ in Tamil, which translates to the “6-o-clock
bird”. This refers to its curious habit of calling at 6 AM and 6 PM. Of course the
bird doesn’t always call at that exact time. This is just an allusion to its
crepuscular behaviour of being active during dawn and dusk!
Life was bursting from every niche. The mixed deciduous forests of
Bandhavgarh thrive with Bamboo (dendroclalmus strictus) interspersed with
large Sal (shorea robusta), Saj (Terminalia tomentosa), Tendu (Diospyros
melanoxylon), Arjun (Terminalia arjuna), Mahua (Madhuca indica),
Laburnum or Amaltas (Cassia fistula) and Crocodile Bark (terminalia
alata) among other trees.
Bandhavgarh National Park
lies on the extreme north-eastern border of the present state of Madhya Pradesh.
It shares its Vindhyan Hill topography with Kanha National Park. At the centre of the Park is the Bandhavgarh hill, rising 811 m above
sea level. It is surrounded by many smaller rocky hills separated by gently
sloping valleys. These valleys end in small, swampy meadows, locally known as 'bohera'.
The lowest point in the park is at Tala, 440 m above sea level. The sides of
the Bandhavgarh hill have rocky cliffs and eroded rocks. Streams cut across the
northern ridges parallel to the Umaria Road which cuts through tiger habitat. At
least twenty streams rise or flow through the park, amongst them Umrar (forming
the western boundary) is the largest. The other important streams are Johilla
(eastern boundary), Janadh, Charanganga, Damnar, Banbei, Ambanala and Andhyari
Jhiria. All these streams eventually flow into the river Son, which is an
important southern tributary to the Ganges.
As our Gypsy rattled
along the dusty path we noticed an Indian Hare timidly staring at us before
darting off into the thickets. A Racket-tailed drongo sailed blithely amongst
the cluster of trees. The distinctive two notes whistle of the Indian Pitta continued
at short intervals. The frantic call of Common hawk cuckoo’s ‘brain-fever
brain-fever brain-fever’ rising in pitch continued throughout the day. Every
once in a while, the Indian cuckoo gave his signature ‘cuckoo-cuckoo’ four-note
calls. Rufous treepies clambered through the branches foraging for fruits,
small reptiles or insects, whatever they could lay their beaks on. Red vented
bulbuls, magpie robins, green bee-eaters were also busy foraging for food. Birds in forests primarily feed during the early morning and late
evening hours. Early morning is crucial for replenishing energy lost
overnight, and late evening is a time when birds may forage and store energy
for the night. The dawn chorus, which is a symphony of birdsong, often
coincides with the early morning feeding period.
We soon reached the Chakradhara meadow from where we could see the magnificent Bandhavgarh Fort. No one is really sure of who built the fort of Bandhavgarh, though scores of myths about its origin continue to do the rounds. The Chandela dynasty of Bundelkhand, famous for having built the Khajuraho temples, frequently attacked the rulers of Bandhavgarh, but are believed never to have established their rule here. The Kalchuris who ruled the fort gave it away to the Baghelas in dowry, when one of their daughters married a Baghela prince around 12th century. Subsequently, warrior clans fought and lost many battles for possession of the fort, but what is known is that in the 17th century, the Baghelas were still in control and that the Bandhavgarh Fort was their capital.
The god-fearing insist that Lord Ram stopped here after vanquishing
Ravana in Lanka and that it was Hanuman’s simian architects, who built the
bridge to Lanka, also built the Bandhavgarh Fort. Lakshman, Ram’s obedient and
dutiful brother, is said to have been gifted the fort, thus the name (bandhav
– brother; garh – fort). People of the area still worship Lakshman at a
temple within the fort precincts.
 |
| Bandhavgarh Fort |
 |
| Siddhababa male cub |
The Siddha Baba meadow is a prime tiger habitat in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, with tigers often spotted on the road or in the grasslands. There is a small shrine dedicated to a Hindu deity, Siddha Baba, after whom this meadow is named. Surrounding this shrine are thick grasslands which make it an ideal habitat for various animals like chital, sambar, wild boar and many other animals. Perhaps because of the ample availability of prey, the frequency of tiger sightings in the Siddha Baba region is quite high.
Content by our brief but thrilling sighting of the cub, we drive back
towards the Chakradhara meadow. A pond heron sits patiently in the marshes. A woolly necked stork stands motionless. My immediate response was to
tell Monu to stop. In any other circumstances the sight of a "near threatened" woolly necked
stork would elicit some excitement, as it is a rare sight these days. But in Bandhavgarh it is the tiger that
must be pursued on priority! Needless to say, Monu ignores my reaction and
continues driving! A cormorant perched
on a dry stump spreads its wings to dry. The sight of an Egyptian vulture
flying overhead results in a sudden burst of excitement. We see an Indian
vulture too. As we were enjoying the birds, the forest once again resounds with
alarm calls. Chital and peacock calls resonate through the forest. This time
the sambar deer have also raised an alarm, which is a sure-shot indication that
a tiger is on the prowl. We are alert once again. Monu receives the news that
the female cub of the Siddhababa tigress is walking towards the meadow. We wait
in anticipation. After what seems like eternity, she emerges from the tall
grass of the Chakradhara meadow. A full-grown female cub! We see her walk
towards our jeep. She stops, looks indifferently at the ten odd jeeps park
along the periphery of the meadow, and lays down in the cool grass. We lose
sight of her. In the past one and a half hour, we’ve had two tiger sightings,
both almost full-grown cubs!
 |
| Siddhababa female cub |
Tiger cubs typically stay with their mother for around 18 to 24
months, depending on whether they are male or female. Male cubs often
leave the mother's territory between 18 and 20 months, while female cubs may
stay with her for up to 24 months. During this period, the mother teaches the
cubs essential survival skills, including hunting and recognizing their
territory. As the cubs approach adulthood, the mother's influence begins
to wane, and she may start to push them away to make room for her next litter. These
two cubs of the Siddhababa tigress are probably being weaned away now that they
are old enough to fend for themselves.
Our appetite for tiger
sightings having been satiated, we must now satiate the hunger in our tummies. We head towards
Centrepoint, the designated place for breakfast. As we roll along, a dancing
peacock attracts our attention. We stop to take in the visual spectacle that
was on display. The peacock had fanned his vibrant tail feathers and was regaling
a couple of bewildered fawns in the absence of his mate. I soaked in this
celebration of life as it were, before we continued our drive for the delicious
breakfast that awaited us.
Some of the twenty-eight jeeps that were allowed inside the park were already at Centrepoint. As Monu and Pankaj, our other driver opened the picnic baskets, jungle babblers hopped around in close proximity hoping to be fed with some scraps. Indian vultures circled the skies high above. There was a sudden burst of excitement as a Malabar pied hornbill glided gracefully above us. The calls of the Indian pitta continued to rent the air.
After a hearty breakfast,
we were off once again. The air was now hot and dry. The sun was scorching down
upon us. Anjali and I covered our faces upto our eyes to shield ourselves from
the dust that our vehicle kicked up. Hema too had wrapped her face in a scarf.
We enjoyed some bird watching from our moving jeep. Green bee-eaters made arial
sallies to snatch insects, mid-air. A black naped monarch dived delicately from
his perch to snap up a meal and return to the same perch. We could hear a faint ‘pook-pook-pook-pook’ of the Coppersmith Barbet
and a sporadic ‘tui’ of the Plum Headed Parakeet. The frantic call of Common hawk cuckoo’s
‘brain-fever brain-fever brain-fever’ rising in pitch, continued throughout the
day. As we were enjoying the birds along the
way, Monu heard another ‘cookie’!! Bajrang, the dominant male tiger of the area
had been spotted. “Madam baith jaao!!” Monu’s tone was urgent. In a split second he had stepped on the
accelerator and we were zooming towards the spot. When we reached the spot,
several other jeeps had already reached and were waiting near the culvert. We
noticed that the jeep carrying Mandar, Nidhi and Nirmala had also reached the
spot. A small stream trickled down towards us from a gentle slope. Bajrang was
sprawled out behind a fallen log, deep inside the thickets. One could barely
see parts of his body. Excited at the mere presence of a tiger, we could hear
animated voices – “dekh dekh, kaan dikh raha hai” or “panja dekh iska!” or
“dekh, dekh, mundi utha raha hai!” We waited a good ten to fifteen minutes
and realised the futility of the wait.
With the tiger at the apex of the food chain, Bandhavgarh supports more
than forty species of mammals including Spotted deer, Sambar, Barking deer or
Muntjac, Leopard, Wild dog or Dhole, Hyena, Wild boar, Sloth bear, Common
langur, Rhesus monkey, Ruddy and Indian Grey Mongoose, Palm Civets,
Rusty-Spotted Cat, Jungle Cats and many more. In more recent years, a herd
of Asian Elephants have also migrated into this bountiful land.
As we left Bajrang to continue his siesta and resumed our jaunt, we
came across an open meadow. A large flat rocky surface was surrounded by dry
grass. It was an open scrubland and the sun was now moving towards its zenith.
I noticed a dark spot on the rocky terrain. A closer look revealed a savannah
nightjar! This time it was our tone that was urgent! “Monu ruko!” was our collective
refrain! This time Monu stopped! Having heard the constant calls of the
nightjar on our night safari a day earlier, this was a great sighting. Merging
seamlessly into their surroundings, nightjars usually rest on the ground camouflaged
against the rocks, soil and leaf litter. They also perch lengthwise along
branches of trees which makes them blend in with their surroundings, making
them less vulnerable to predators. Though they are not flightless birds, nightjars
mostly spend their days snoozing on the ground in open landscapes or on low
branches of trees. They are mostly active at dawn and dusk, when they fly about
scouting for tiny insects. A sleeping bird at ground level is
particularly susceptible to threats, from a variety of predators including
humans. This one sat in the open oblivious of our presence. We took pictures to
our hearts content while hoping it won’t be preyed upon by an intrusive
predator. Monu suggested we must be on our way now as it was time to exit the
park. So we took our seats and enjoyed the bumpy ride back to gate. A family of langurs hung around in the shade
of tendu trees and watched us indifferently as our jeep drove past them
slowly.
 |
| Savannah Nightjar |
A sumptuous lunch awaited us at the resort. A short nap after lunch, and we were ready for the evening round again in the Tala zone.
It was decided that we head straight to the spot where Bajrang was
resting to see if he was still there. Monu was sure that by now Bajrang will
have finished his siesta and will begin to move, which would give us the
opportunity to see him. But when we reached the culvert Bajrang hadn’t budged. We
once again waited in anticipation. As our eyes tried desperately to get a
glimpse of him, we saw that few other jeeps also reached the spot. Suddenly we
realised that we were surrounded by jeeps carrying excited clamorous visitors
clambering for a glimpse of the mighty Bajrang. In the flurry of excitement
Mandar spotted a blue bearded bee-eater closer to our jeep perched above the
tiny stream. For us bird-watchers, this sighting was as exciting, if not
more! We hurriedly put our binoculars to
our eyes to get a good view of the bird, much to the bewilderment of the other
visitors who thought Bajrang had suddenly appeared there! Overjoyed at having
seen the bee-eater, we decided to leave Bajrang to enjoy his siesta. If at all
someone was disappointed, it was Monu! After all, his only aim was to show us
as many tigers as possible. The birds could be ignored 😊
Now that we were sure that Bajrang would not move for some time, Mandar
suggested we drive to an area called Sita mandap. It was expected that the Chakradhara
female tigress would visit the water hole with her cubs. Sita Mandap is a
well-known rock shelter over a stream. The rock in the shape of a bridge gives
an impression of a "mandap" (an arch). It is a popular
spot for wildlife, including tigers, to rest and drink water. The area is
named after a legendary tigress Sita, known for her grace and strength, who helped
bring global fame to Bandhavgarh, putting it on the map as a prime tiger
reserve. She raised a total of six litters, the first three from Banka and
three from the legendary Charger, the alpha male tiger of Bandhavgarh. Most of
the tigers in Bandhavgarh today are from her lineage.
As we waited patiently on the elevation across Sita mandap, I admired
the surrounding lush landscapes. It was truly a haven for those who admire the
wild.
We spent the rest of the evening waiting, our eyes glued to the sita mandap, hoping the tigress and her cubs
would arrive. But she had other plans. Then one of the gypsy drivers noticed
some movement on the slopes across the valley where we stood. It was quite far
and we had to strain our eyes, but all we could see were tan and black stripes
moving. It must be the cubs, said one driver. The stripes then stopped moving.
The cubs must have settled down in the shade of the sal trees.
I too settled down in my seat and looked around taking in the beauty
of the forest. It would soon be time to move out of the park. As I looked
around for some bird activity some bee-eaters performed arial sallies. A plum
headed parakeet flew past overhead uttering his distinctive “tui….tui…” Mandar
pointed out a Crested Treeswift flying overhead. While swifts do not have the
ability to perch, the Crested Treeswifts are an aberration. They are often seen
perching on trees. Our hearts were aflutter when a pair of yellow footed green
pigeons came a perched on the bare tree right in front of us. Instantly our
cameras were out in a flash and Mandar, Amit, Anjali, and I were joyfully
clicking (without the flash ofcourse!) Mandar got an awesome closeup shot. The
occupants of the other jeeps looked at us in dismay. They wondered what all the
excitement was all about. But how would they know what thrill a green pigeon
stirs in us bird watchers? We called it a day and enjoyed the bumpy ride back
to the gate. We could hear the resonant calls of the hooded oriole. The short
double whistle of the pittas continued at short intervals. The hollow,
monotonous, somewhat metallic tuk tuk tuk of the coppersmith barbet
followed us right upto the gate.
 |
| Yellow Footed Green Pigeon |
Back at the resort, a delicious snack of kanda bhajiyas and tea
awaited us. We enjoyed the snack under the moonlit sky, chatting about the day’s
sightings and other trivia. Post dinner, as was the usual practice of Nature
India trips, a revision session and Mandar’s interesting anecdotes.
The next morning our drivers Monu and Pankaj were waiting for us at
the appointed time of 4.45. This morning’s drive would be in the Khitauli zone.
Today we switched vehicles, so Pankaj would now drive Anjali, Mandar and me,
and Amit would accompany Hema, Nidhi and Nirmala in Monu’s jeep.
As our jeep rolled into the park, I stood up holding onto the bar to
take in the sights and sounds and smell of the early morning. The forest played
out its usual symphony…… the ‘tuk, tuk, tuk’ of the coppersmith barbet, the short
double whistle ‘wieet-pyou’ of the Indian pitta and several other familiar
sounds. Barely ten minutes in, and Pankaj got the news that the Dhamokhar male
a.k.a DM had been sighted. “Madam baith jaao!!” Do all the drivers in Bandhavgarh have the
same urgent refrain?
We swiftly took our seats in the open Gypsy and holding onto the bars,
wind and dust blowing into our faces, we were on a coaster ride in the forests
of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. We drove along the dry, dusty tracks,
swerving around corners kicking up swarms of dust as we too swerved in tandem.
As we sped towards the spot, alarm calls of the chital and langurs
rang out through the forests. The cries of the sambar deer were sharp
and urgent. The plaintive calls of the peacocks reverberated through the
underbrush, setting the hairs on the back of my neck tingling and goosebumps
running up my arms. And then, there he was!! DM! Grace and dignity personified!
All I could do is stare, transfixed by the flames that seem to ripple up his
flank, the eyes that promised infinite patience and the muscular limbs so versed
in the art of stealth and surprise. He walked majestically along the edge of
the forest, periodically turning his head to look at us. If I stretched out my
hand I could have touched him! By now there were ten other jeeps that had
arrived. And I was happy to notice that our other gypsy driven by Monu with
Hema, Amit, Nidhi and Nirmala too was there. DM stopped near a bamboo thicket,
raised his head up and gave us a commanding look. There was a burst of camera
clicks. He then continued his majestic walk. Each of the gypsy drivers
scrambled and manoeuvred their jeeps back and forth, almost grazing the other
jeeps, to get the best sighting of DM. In the frenzy, DM was getting flustered
watching the commotion. He had begun to growl. Soon better sense prevailed and
the drivers decided to give DM his right of way. The young tiger walked across
the dusty path ahead of us and crossed over to the other side. Our gypsy tailed
him for a bit. He kept walking, defecated near a bush and then disappeared into
the forest.
 |
| Dhamokhar male a.k.a. DM |
DM is a young male tiger who is on a journey to find his place in the wild. Tigers like him often move from buffer zones to core areas as they mature, searching for territory where they can thrive. Tigers prefer to lead solitary lives. They stick meticulously to their areas. This is made possible most effectively through scent marking. The tiger raises his tail and shoots out a fluid which is a mixture of urine and a secretion from the anal gland. Another tiger will react to this smell by hanging his tongue out and wrinkling up his nose. This gesture is referred to as “flehmen”. The smell can last for a few days to a few weeks. It is an excellent indication to tigers of how recently another has passed by or whether the area is occupied or not. This therefore discourages interaction or in case of two dominant males will result in conflict. A tigress in oestrus will attract a male tiger by the scent which pin points her position. She will wander throughout her home range calling and marking with great frequency. Another form of communication that a tiger uses, is leaving visible claw marks on barks of trees, as territorial signals. A male tiger will stand up on his hind legs and try and leave his claw marks on the bark of a tree as high as he possibly can. This way he signals to other males how big he is. The tiger is normally a silent animal, but vocalisations are also a form of communication between males or between a male and a female, and are vital between a tigress and her cubs.
DM’s move into the core is a natural step as he grows stronger and
more confident. Watching DM claim his space is a reminder of the delicate
balance of nature and the importance of protecting these habitats so that these
magnificent creatures can continue to roam free. Just half an hour into our
drive and we had had the most exhilarating sighting of a majestic young male
tiger.
 |
| Honey Buzzard |
The rest of the morning didn’t yield any tiger sightings. But we wouldn’t be a more content lot if it were not for the vibrant pitta who gave us a “road show”! In a clearing ahead of our gypsy the path was littered with dry leaves of the tendu tree. The movement in the leaf litter caught my attention. It was a pitta hopping around foraging for insects. He was oblivious of our presence. I tried to take aim with my camera but the light and his constant hopping played spoilsport. I noticed another pitta on a tree calling out fervently. I could see only its silhouette. I aimed my camera at him and shot. I had a silhouette atleast 😊.
As I scanned the trees with my binocs I saw a grey shrike and an
ashy drongo. A Paradise flycatcher came in search of some flies. We had stopped
at this spot for nearly an hour and were so engrossed in the birds that we hadn’t
notice the time flying by. It was time to leave the park.
 |
| Paradise Flycatcher |
The moist cold towels offered by the staff of the resort provided much
relief from the dry heat. Another delicious lunch and a quick nap, and we were
off on our evening safari, once again to Khitauli.
Pankaj’s enthusiasm was contagious. He had great hopes of finding the "big
boy" of Bandhavgarh, Pujari. We had stopped at Pujari’s favourite water
hole that morning. Acting on pure instinct, Pankaj decided we should head there
again. The atmosphere at the water hole was serene. The only sounds we could
hear were the melodious calls of birds and the rustling of leaves in the gentle
breeze. We waited for what seemed like eternity with our fingers crossed. Then
lo and behold! Pujari emerged from the thickets. Tigers have this uncanny knack
of seeing us before we can see them. We were sure he was watching us as we
waited. He stopped behind a large tendu tree, continued looking at us
for a few seconds and then lay down in its shade much to our collective disappointment. His first sight was obscure.
The thickets of bamboo and the thick bark of the tendu revealed only
parts of his body. We waited patiently. Another fifteen minutes. But again, it
seemed like eternity. Then, Pujari stood up, gave us an indifferent glance and then ambled
towards the nearby pond, slid into the water, hind legs first, leaving his
upper body and head visible. Tigers don’t like water splashing on their eyes
and most of them enter the water backwards.
Pujari’s imposing presence left us dumbstruck!
 |
| Pujari |
Pujari is the dominant male tiger, the "big boy" of Bandhavgarh’s Khitauli zone. His nickname comes from his habit of taking a bath before going for his stroll, resembling the rituals of a priest (pujari)!
Tigers spend the majority of their day resting, typically up to 16-20
hours, in cooler areas of the forest. This way they can conserve the energy they
need for hunting and defending their territory.
We watched Pujari in awe for a good forty-five minutes until a huge
canter carrying noisy visitors reached the spot. One of the drivers gave them a
disgusting look. “Mele me aaye ho kya?” he hissed! Our appetite for
Pujari had been satiated so we decided to move on and explore other parts of
the enchanting forest.
An Indian roller sat on the stump of a tree bang in the centre of the
path. We were headed towards Ra’s area. Ra is a female tigress about six years old
and is known to be very bold. She is seldom bothered by the vehicles around
her. She is named after a pattern on her forehead which resembles the devnagari
“ra”. Ra now has three cubs which must be only a few months old. Tigers enjoy a
complete sense of privacy especially when with a family. The over-protective
nature of a tigress makes her more evasive and at the same time aggressive when
with cubs.
As we approached a waterhole, an elephant was dusting himself with mud
to cool down in the scorching heat. It was very rare to find elephants in central
Indian forests until now. But in 2018 a herd of elephants migrated to
Bandhavgarh from neighbouring Chhattisgarh and has since become a permanent
part of the reserve's ecosystem. Now, over 50 elephants call this jungle
home, thriving in a landscape where their kind was once unheard of for at-least
the past 100 years.
Time to leave the park. A crested serpent eagle watched us from his
perch on a dry tree as we drove back to the gate. We stopped at a souvenir shop
to take back some memorabilia. Darkness had set in. I remembered it was Buddha
Poornima, and was on the lookout for the full moon. As we drove back to the
resort, there it was in the south-eastern skies as it rose above the horizon. It
hung in the sky like a golden lantern. That night as all of us gathered after
dinner under the open sky, the moon had almost reached its zenith and looked
like a luminous pearl behind the tall bamboo grasses. It was our last night in
Bandhavgarh.
As we waited at the Tala gate well before it opened, we were greeted
by the spotted owlets that have made the large trees at the entrance their
home. We entered the gate at the stroke of five thirty. Monu drove the jeep
slowly. It was still dark at dawn and the air was pleasant. We passed herds of
spotted deer grazing and grey langurs in the upper canopy foraging on fruits.
An Indian hare hopped timidly on the dry leaf litter. The symphony of the forest
was playing out in full measure. The forest was alive with the calls of the
Indian pitta, magpie robins, common hawk cuckoo, Indian cuckoo, parakeets, coppersmith
barbets among others. And then, “Madam baith jaao!” By now we understood what the usual refrain of
the drivers meant. It was not a request by any measure! We swiftly took our
seats and held onto the bars after securing our cameras and binocs. The news
was that a tiger had been spotted resting in the forest guards’ watch tower in
the Bhitari Bah area. Monu stepped on the accelerator and we were off on
another roller coaster ride.
 |
| Green Bee-eater |
Bhitari Bah in Bandhavgarh is a tranquil meadow that is part of the
Tala Zone. The constant inundation of the Bhitari River creates a unique
habitat for swampy grassland species. The meadow attracts barking deer and
tigers. Bhitari Bah is also an ideal location for birdwatchers, with various
species like wood peckers, Indian Pitta and flycatchers found in the area.
When we reached Bhitari Bah several other jeeps were already there. The
buzz was that two cubs of the Chakradhara tigress were sitting atop the small
brick structure that served as a watch tower. The structure sat atop a small
mound which was about fifteen to twenty meters high. As Monu manoeuvred the
jeep to a suitable place there was a flurry of excitement. We could see that one
of the cubs had got up and had started climbing down the steps of the watch
tower. But seeing the rush of vehicles, the poor animal changed his mind mid-way
and climbed back up the stairs and disappeared behind the structure. We could
see that he lay down in the bushes. Now only parts of his face could be seen.
There was another flurry of excitement as someone noticed a second tiger behind
this cub. As more jeeps kept arriving Monu took up a strategic location and we
stayed put there. Pankaj too had arrived with the other members of our group. We
could not see the second cub from where we were stationed. Everyone waited with
bated breath. Soon we began looking out for the birds. A crested serpent eagle
had perched himself on a tree behind us. Paradise flycatchers and monarchs were
busy catching insects near the water. Periodically we would look up to see if
the cubs had moved. We didn’t realise how much time had passed. We had waited
for one and a half hour in anticipation of seeing the cubs in open view.
Finally, our wait proved fruitful. The male cub rose to his feet, scampered
down the hill towards the swamp, gave us a brief look and disappeared into the
tall grass. The other cub too followed. A brief but wonderful sighting
nonetheless. We decided to move out and explore other places. Both our jeeps
took different routes. We drove along watching birds and trying to identify the
trees. We spotted a grey hornbill flying. The raucous chatter of the treepies
broke the silence of the jungle. I pointed out to a shy barking deer foraging
in the dry leaf litter. As we drove along towards the Jamuniya groves, we saw a
few jeeps had stopped a little ahead with their eyes glued to the forest.
Another tiger!! This would be our third tiger sighting of the morning. It was
the cub of the Chorbehra tigress. She was resting in the shade deep inside the
forest. But we could see her clearly. We gawked at her beauty. Her tan and
black coat was a shade darker than other tigers. She soon rose to her feet,
gave us a curious look and walked away into the bushes.
 |
| Male cub of Siddhababa tigress - with kill |
We drove towards the Chakradhara meadows stopping every now and then
to see a bird here or a deer or langur there. There was a small mud puddle at
the edge of the meadow in which some butterflies were ‘mud-puddling’. Mandar
identified the butterflies as a species of swordtail butterflies. We continued
to drive towards Gopalpur. Gopalpur is known to be a good place for bird
watching, and is frequented by species like Kingfishers, Storks, lapwings, and
Stilts. There is largish waterbody surrounded by bamboo groves and sal trees.
We could hear the melancholic call of the stork billed kingfisher. After
waiting at Gopalpur for some time, we continued to drive around. Then Monu
suggested we go back to Gopalpur and wait. His instinct told him we could get
an interesting sighting. There is slight incline to reach the point where one
can see the waterbody. We were on the road at a lower elevation when another
driver who was already at the location signalled to Monu to come quickly. Monu revved
the engine and charged his jeep up the incline. And what we saw was
unbelievable! The Siddhababa tigress’s male cub had just hunted down an
unsuspecting fawn who had come down to the water for a drink. He had the little
fawn firmly in the grip of his canines. He raised his head, still holding onto
the lifeless deer, looked at us briefly before turning and walking away into
the bamboo thickets from where he had stalked the deer. This was truly a
sighting of a lifetime!
The tigers of Bandhavgarh are legendary. Charger, Sita, Mohini, Kankati, Jhurjura female, Bokha, Mahaman female, Chakradhara female, Bheem, Chota Bheem, Dotty, Spotty..... the list is long.. This sub-adult male tiger cub of the Siddhababa tigress will soon join the illustrious list!! He had just begun to learn his survival skills! While his mother must be away taking a nap somewhere in the vicinity, he is practising the lessons she has given him.
Tigers mostly use stealth and ambush as their hunting strategies.
Their bodies are not made for speed and agility, so they stalk their prey
before launching an attack. Patience and timing are of utmost
importance. This young dude noticed the little deer drinking water,
oblivious of its presence, stealthily got as close to it as possible and
launched a quick attack.
 |
| Siddhababa tigress |
As we moved back towards the Chakradhara meadow we were in for another
surprise. The mother of the cub we had just seen, the Siddhababa tigress
herself was resting in the swamps. Having seen both her cubs, now seeing their
mother brought me much joy. She had raised her cubs well! The lady was lazing
in the swamps periodically lifting her head to glance at us onlookers.
It was curtains on our exciting and exhilarating trip. We owed our tiger sightings to our drivers Monu and Pankaj. It is their detailed knowledge of the terrain, from patches of grass to rocks, waterholes, caves and streams that enables them to take their jeeps in areas which would otherwise be inaccessible. Their innate instincts about the location of tigers and their movements deserve to be applauded.
Today, although various organizations are working to protect tigers
and their habitats through conservation efforts, forests like the Bandhavgarh
Tiger Reserve continue to face threats like habitat loss and fragmentation, poaching,
human-wildlife conflicts, prey depletion and climate change. All anthropogenic
in nature.
Our ancestors from the time of Ved Vyasa who wrote those profound
lines in the Mahabharat two and half thousand years ago, had the wisdom to know
that when a tiger dies, the jungle fades. Where has that wisdom gone today?
Nivedita Kotharé
Bandhavgarh
10th to 13th May 2025
%20Group%20Photo%20only1.jpg) |
| Monu, Pankaj (our drivers) Mandar Khadilkar, Amit Gupta, Nirmala Balkrishnan, Hema Subramanian, Anjali Kelkar, myself and Nidhi Menon |
List of birds seen
Aranyak Resort – 10th May
Seen at the resort
1.
Tickell’s blue fc
2.
Monarch
3.
Purple sunbird
4.
Red vented bulbul
5.
Small minivet
6.
Oriental turtle dove
7.
Spotted dove
8.
Indian robin
9.
Grey breasted
prinia
10. Oriental white eye
11. Magpie robin
12. Tailor bird
13. Grey hornbill
14. Scops owl
15. Iora
16. Common myna
17. Bank mynas (on the way)
Heard
1.
Grey bellied cuckoo
2.
Common hawk cuckoo
3.
Grey francolin
4.
Tailor bird
5.
Alexandrine
parakeet
6.
Jungle owlet
7.
Iora
8.
Coppersmith barbet
9.
Rufous woodpecker
10. Plum headed parakeets
11. White throated kingfisher
Seen
Mottled wood owl
Thick knee
Heard
Savannah nightjar
Indian nightjar
Red wattled lapwing
1.
Red jungle fowl
2.
Indian Peafowl
3.
Painted Spurfowl
4.
Spotted owlet
5.
Indian nighjar
(heard)
6.
Crested Tree swift
7.
Red wattled lapwing
8.
Chestnut shouldered
petronia
9.
White breasted
waterhen
10. Little cormorant
11. Little egret
12. Large egret
13. Red naped ibis
14. Pond heron
15. Egyptian vulture
16. Indian vulture
17. King vulture
18. White eyed buzzard
19. Oriental honey buzzard
20. Crested Serpent eagle
21. Changeable hawk eagle
22. Shikra
23. Racket tailed drongo
24. Rufous Treepie
25. Shama
26. Indian pitta
27. Magpie Robin
28. Tawny Bellied Babbler
29. Puff throated Babbler
30. Orange Headed Ground Thrush
31. Black rumped Flameback
32. Streak Throated Woodpecker
33. Green bee eater
34. Indian grey hornbill
35. Malabar pied hornbill
36. White throated kingfisher
37. Common kingfisher
38. Indian roller
39. Coppersmith barbet
40. Alexandrine parakeet
41. Tickel's blue fc
42. Back naped monarch
43. Rose ringed parakeet
44. Plum headed parakeet
45. Hooded oriole
46. Paradise fc
47. Grey breasted prinia
48. Wire tailed swallow
49. Red rumped swallow
50. Red vented bulbul
51. Brahminy starling
52. Blue bearded bee-eater
53. Yellow legged green pigeon
54. Savannah Nightjar
55. Large cuckoo shrike
56. White browed fantail
57. Grey woodshrike
58. Woolly necked stork
59. Lesser adjutant stork
60. Painted Stork
61. Asian Koel
62. Tailor bird
63. Coucal
64. House sparrow
65. Common crow
66. Jungle crow
Mammals and other wildlife seen:
1.
Royal Bengal Tiger
– 13 individuals including 6 cubs
1. Siddhababa female tigress
2. Siddhababa female cub
3. Siddhababa male cub
4. Chakradhara female tigress
5. Chakradhara female cub
6. Chakradhara male cub
7. Bajrang
8. Pujari
9. DM
10. Chorbehera female cub
11. Chorbehera male cub
12. Ra
13. Panhayi female tigress
2.
Asian elephant
3.
Spotted deer
4.
Sambar deer
5.
Barking deer
6.
Indian Hare
7.
Porcupine
8.
Indian fox
9.
Ruddy Mongoose
10. Grey Mongoose
11. Rhesus macaque
12. Grey Langur
13. Wild Boar
14. Palm squirrel
15. Monitor lizard
16. Garden Lizard
No comments:
Post a Comment