A Beauty Pageant of the Natural World

On a recent trip to Goa with Nature India, I witnessed a beauty pageant of a different kind.

They wore the trendiest colours as they pranced and preened in sheer vanity. In hues of blues, yellows, reds, greens, browns, whites and blacks, some looked bright and colourful, others dull but pretty. Some wore spots and others streaks.  Some had spangled manes and others sported crests. Shapely eye brows and stylish eye liners were there to see. Colourful cheeks, plunging necklines and collars were on display too.

It was a beauty pageant of the natural world – a beauty pageant of birds! But unlike our own beauty contests, here its not the females but the males who would score high on the beauty stakes!

With so much beauty on display, and add to that a trip named “Romance with Birds and Butterflies”, there couldn’t have been a more romantic experience for me. For, I fell in love all over again with my beautiful feathered friends!

We reached the Nature’s Nest resort to a warm welcome with a cool and refreshing glass of Sol Kadhi! This was just the beginning of a gratifying indulgence of food and beauty that was to follow over the next 3 days.

Goa doesn’t sound like a place one could go birding, would it? One would rather loll on the sandy beaches or relax under the swaying palms right?

Wrong. There’s much more to this tiny state of Goa than just its beaches, swaying palms, rock music shows and flea markets.

Goa has as many as 6 wildlife sanctuaries, 5 of which are part of the area covered by the Western Ghats. The Western Ghats are internationally recognized as a region of immense global importance for the conservation of biological diversity. UNESCO has listed them as a World Heritage Site. There are more than 450 species of birds found in Goa. Such is the natural wealth of this little gem of a state.

Over the next 3 days, we would roam the forests of Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary in search of our feathered friends and also visit the relatively unknown Maina Lake and go on a river cruise over the Zuari for water birds.

Our trip began with a foray into the nearby forests in search of the elusive Sri Lanka Frogmouth.

The Sri Lankan frogmouth is a nocturnal bird related to the nightjars. Distinctive in both its appearance and its loud laughing song, it’s head is as wide as its body and has a broad, flattened, hooked bill. A master of camouflage, when alarmed, it slowly moves its head up pointing its bill upward so that it resembles a leaf or a dry branch! It relies on something called crypsis to remain undetected.  In ecology, crypsis is the ability of an organism to conceal itself especially from a predator by having a colour, pattern and shape that allows itself to blend into the surrounding environment. 

So when Adesh announced that we would venture out in search of the elusive bird, the excitement was palpable. It was early evening. Omkar, our local guide/expert lead us into the woods where he had seen the bird roosting a couple of days earlier.

The frogmouth generally chooses a spot to roost during the day, and then uses the same one for months. So with fingers crossed, we followed Omkar in anticipation, hoping the bird would still be there at it’s chosen spot. A few minutes later, Omkar’s face lit up with a wide grin. He excitedly pointed out to the bird which, as expected, was perched right there on the very same spot!

Sri Lanka Frogmouth

Beauty, they say, lies in the eye of the beholder. This was the fourth time I have seen the Sri Lanka Frogmouth. But believe me, it seemed even more beautiful this time than ever before! We had just feasted our eyes on the first contestant of our beauty pageant!

Pleased with our sighting, we moved out of the woods towards an open meadow-like area. 

There on a huge ficus tree, was a frenzy of activity. A large flock of Pompadour Green Pigeons that seemed to be carved out of plasticine, were gorging on the fruits. Thick-billed Flowerpeckers flitted around from tree to tree. An Ashy Woodswallow sat atop another, Malabar and Plum-headed Parakeets called as they flew swiftly around, Sunbirds showed off their iridescent feathers as they hovered around flowers for nectar. Green Bee-eaters displayed their aerial feats. The beauty on display was no match to any other beauty pageant in the world!

Pompadour Green Pigeon

Usually birds have two peak periods of foraging activity during the day. One in the early morning presumably to replenish energy reserves depleted during the previous night of fasting. The second peak in foraging activity is late in the day as the birds build energy reserves to prepare for the coming night.  It was business as usual here on this meadow. Soon the birds would fly back to their roosts for the night.

After a satisfying half day of birding, Adesh had planned night trail in an attempt to locate another nocturnal bird, the Nightjar.

Nightjars are nocturnal birds with long pointed wings, short legs and short bills surrounded by rictal bristles (but they've got big mouths). They prey on moths and other large night-flying insects which they catch in flight.

Like the Frogmouths, Nightjars too are masters of camouflage. Their soft plumage is cryptically coloured to resemble bark or leaves. And to make their sighting even more difficult, nightjars have developed a rather unique perching behavior. They perch a fair distance above ground but sit along the length of the branch rather than across it. Smart indeed!

Armed with torch lights, we tottered up towards a plateau in the fading light of the evening, following the footsteps of Adesh, Mandar and Omkar.  By the time we reached the plateau it was pitch dark. We waited in pin drop silence. Adesh scanned the area with his torchlight as we waited with bated breath. Soon, Adesh’s torchlight was following what seemed to be two bright lights. The eyes of nightjars glow in the dark if some light falls on them. We had spotted our first nightjar! It was the Jerdon’s Nightjar. As it flew around the periphery of the plateau, we could see its glowing eyes!  It soon settled on a perch. We scampered to get a closer look. “Khatarnak!” Mandar’s reaction to the sight said it all! As we were ogling and clicking away in frenzy, another pair of eyes was seen in the distance. Our attention now shifted to this one. We waited patiently, hoping this one too would settle down soon. And sure enough, it did. Soon were gawking at our second nightjar, the Grey Nightjar.

Jerdon's Nightjar                                                                                        Jungle Nightjar

Delighted with the beauty that we had just witnessed, we returned to the resort for a delectable spread of Goan cuisine graciously prepared by Nature’s Nest staff and then to the cozy comfort of our beds to retire for the day.

The next day began early. I woke up to the melodious call of the Indian Pitta. Although during this time of the year, the Pitta is usually silent, it often calls just once at around 6 o’clock in the morning only to fall silent during the rest of the day. This habit gives the bird the sobriquet “6 o’clock bird”.

As we got onto the bus to drive to our birding location of the day, we experienced another frenzy of activity on the powder-puff tree at the entrance of the resort. Several Lorikeets or Vernal Hanging Parrots showed off their acrobatics as they hung upside down feeding on its blossoms.  A lone Loten’s Sunbird hovered around in search of nectar. The campus of Nature’s Nest itself had such a wealth of bird life. It was a wonderful start to the day.

A bridge over a small river was our birding location for the day. Nicknamed “the studio” by Adesh as one gets to see and photograph birds at close quarters, the place proved to be ‘ammmazzing’ in Nature India’s parlance!

The wires running across the bridge ran perfectly at eye level. They were choc-a-bloc with swifts and swallows of several species. Wire-tailed, Streak throated, Red rumped and Barn Swallows, Asian Palm Swifts and Dusky Crag Martins all jostled for space. Indian Swiftlets and Brown Backed Needletails displayed aerial acrobatics. Some were juveniles, others’ feathers moulting. When not breeding, swallows form large flocks and roost communally. Swallows are excellent fliers and more often than not feed on insects on the wing. Their flight is fast and involves a rapid succession of turns and banks. It is a wonder how they never ever collide into one another in their aerial display! 

As the drama on the wires continued, our attention shifted to a nearby cluster of trees. The melodious call of a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher showing off his vibrant hues, caught our fancy. A vivid Iora called from its perch in the thickets. Inspite of its bright yellow and black colours, it was difficult to spot in the foliage. A tiny Nilgiri Flowerpecker prancing around in the tall bamboo grass was a close encounter. This is one of the birds endemic to the Western Ghats that is found in Goa.  A pair of Magpie Robins seemed to be expressing their love for each other in song. Across the bridge on a huge ficus tree, a Brahminy kite sat majestically on a high perch. As I was taking a shot at this handsome bird with my camera, I noticed a flash of colour in the bushes nearby. A vibrant Crimson-backed Sunbird was proudly brandishing his beautiful bright plumage. This was another endemic bird.

A Verditer Flycatcher peeped from the broad leaves of a bush. This gorgeous bird is a lovely blue-green colour, as the name suggests. An interesting fact is that these birds don’t get their dramatic plumage colour from pigments; instead, this is a structural colour that results from the feathers scattering light in such a way that it appears blue. The beauty pageant just got better!

White Bellied Blue Flycatcher

Another beauty we were lucky to have seen, was the White Bellied Blue Flycatcher. Lucky, because it tends to be extremely quiet and inactive, making it very difficult to uncover. It forages mainly in the dark shade below the forest canopy. Its low song that can be heard only at close quarters only adds to the difficulty in spotting it. Another bird endemic to the Western Ghats (including the Nilgiris), we chanced upon this beauty the following day as we ventured into the Bondla Wildlife Sanctaury.

As dusk approached, we made our way towards what Nature India calls “Hornbill” bridge. It is here that we see large congregations of Malabar Pied Hornbills as they return to their roosts after a long day of foraging in the forests. Malabar Pied Hornbills are easily identified by their huge size and striking black-and-white plumage. They have a huge casque on their beaks giving them a unique appearance. It would be of interest to know that Hornbills display rather unusual breeding behaviour.  The female lays up to six white eggs inside natural existing tree cavities. The female remains inside the cavity with the eggs. When the eggs are ready for incubation, the male begins to close the entrance to the cavity with a wall made of mud, droppings and fruit pulp. Initially the entrance is just large enough for the female to enter the cavity. Soon, the remaining opening is also all but sealed shut with mother and chicks inside the cavity. There is only one narrow aperture, big enough for the male to transfer food to the mother and eventually the chicks. During the incubation period the female undergoes a complete moult. Eventually the eggs hatch and chicks emerge. They continue to remain inside the cavity with the mother for a few weeks. When the chicks and the female are too big to fit in the nest, the mother then breaks the wall with her beak and emerges from the cavity. Both parents then feed the chicks until they are ready to fly.

As we stood at the “Hornbill” bridge waiting for the Malabar Pied Hornbills to arrive, a Stork Billed Kingfisher sat majestically on a twig abutting the water. We noticed a few Little Swifts indulging in a fantastic aerial display. They would fly swiftly upwards and then hurtle below the bridge in full speed only to re-emerge gracefully. This behaviour continued for some time. Slowly, the number of swifts began to increase. Soon, there were hundreds of them indulging in the same aerial display. It was a sight to behold! Then, almost as quickly as they had appeared, one by one they began to disappear under the bridge. It was time for them to retire to their roosting site which was under the bridge.

Just as the swifts disappeared under the bridge, Adesh gestured in animated excitement! An Amur Falcon female was flying past overhead. Rarely seen in the Western Ghats, Adesh’s excitement was only proper. A small raptor of the falcon family, this bird was one of the least talked about species until recently when, in 2012, Conservation India reported massive large scale harvest of these falcons in Nagaland. Researchers estimated that between 120,000 and 140,000 individuals were being trapped and killed for human consumption in just one location in Nagaland at the Doyang roost site in Wokha district each year. 

The Amur falcons start their annual migratory sojourn from south-eastern Siberia and Northern China to Northeastern India. They stop-over and roost in Nagaland and some adjoining Assam districts before leaving for southern Africa where they spend the winter. This migratory stop-over and roost is believed to be by far the largest and most spectacular roosts of any species of falcon ever seen. As many as 140,000 to 150,000 falcons are seen roosting together. The most amazing part of their migratory flight is the three-and-a-half days non-stop flight across the Arabian Sea. The birds make a cycle of an incredible 44,000 kms annually.  

Thankfully, the massacre of the Amurs has now stopped with the great efforts of Nagaland Forest Dept.  alongwith several non-governmental organizations like Nagaland Wildlife and Biodiversity Conservation Trust (NWBCT), who have initiated extensive conservation education programmes. This year not a single bird has been poached. On the contrary, people in Nagaland, are preparing to not only welcome the avian visitors but also hundreds of tourists and bird-watchers from different parts of the globe. An incredible effort indeed!

The excitement of seeing that solitary falcon had barely subsided when the magnificent Malabar Pied Hornbills began arriving. They made a pit-stop on a distant tree. There were atleast 10 to 12 of them. It is indeed a delightful sight to see so many Hornbills together. After some preening and grooming, one by one, they began to fly towards us. We were after all, in the path of their flight to their roosting site.  Hornbills, like many other birds indulge in communal roosting. Communal roosting has several advantages. Birds in a communal roost can reduce the impact of wind and cold weather by sharing body heat through huddling. A large roost with many members can visually detect predators easier, allowing individuals to respond and alert others quicker to threats.

So who says beauty doesn’t go with brain? These beauties of the natural world may not have brains but their instincts and behavioural and survival patterns are highly evolved. And they play an important part in our lives as well. Birds keep systems in balance: they pollinate plants, disperse seeds, scavenge carcasses and recycle nutrients back into the earth. They also feed our spirits, inspiring us to create art and poetry, inspiring us to fly and reminding us that we are part this earth. Birds are the proven bio-indicators of environmental quality and so are ecologically important too.

Spotted Dove

As we wandered in the forests of Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary, White Browed and Yellow Browed Bulbuls gave us glimpses of their wonderful selves. A Spotted Dove sat staring at us on an overhead wire. Indian Robins hopped playfully along the road. 

Amongst the mammals, the Malabar Giant Squirrel was a delight to watch as it scampered acrobatically up and down the tall trees, excited on seeing us. Being an upper-canopy dwelling species, it rarely leaves the trees and travels from tree to tree with jumps of up to 6m. When in danger, it often freezes or flattens itself against the tree trunk, instead of fleeing. 

The species is believed to play a substantial role in shaping the ecosystem by engaging in seed dispersal.

While the first 2 days of our trip were extremely fruitful in terms of the number of sightings, it was on the last day that we were fortunate enough to see some quality species. The forest was dense but clear. It was abuzz with the songs of various birds. But our target that morning was the Malabar Trogon. As usual, Adesh and Mandar began scanning the forests with their hawk vision. Malabar Trogons usually perch absolutely still, especially when alarmed making it very difficult to spot them in the foliage. Their call too has a very low tone. So it was a pleasant surprise when after a lot of searching and waiting, we spotted one male sitting still, deep inside the thickets. Soon we could see the female too. Beautiful candidates for our beauty pageant! But it was the male and not the female who won on the beauty scale hands down. 

We were now all charged up for other quality sightings. It was not long before a gorgeous Fairy Bluebird in all it’s splendour appeared before us. A Flame Throated Bulbul sat atop a delicate branch. A White bellied woodpecker made a guest appearance as he flew across the canopy. The Speckled Piculet, a tiny bird with behaviour very similar to the woodpecker and lives on a diet of ants and termites, gave us a 2 minute appearance and disappeared into the foliage. A Blue faced Malkoha too gave us a dekko. So many quality species at once! Delighted would be an under-statement!

We were now headed for the ancient Tambdi Surla Temple. The stream behind this venerable temple is home to many a beautiful bird. We hoped to see the Blue-eared Kingfisher, which we were told is often seen along the stream. We sat along the stream, each one of us settling on one stone each, and waited with bated breath for the little beauty to make an appearance. We had heard his call. It was not long before his majesty finally made his appearance. He zoomed past us at full speed and perched on a branch abutting the water. We stared at him in amazement before he zoomed away as swiftly as he had appeared.

Blue Eared Kingfisher

It was indeed a fulfilling day at birding and I was full with contentment with the beauty I had witnessed in the natural world.

The excitement of the day continued into the night as we were in for a pleasant surprise back at the resort. To our utter delight, a special barbeque was arranged for us! Dishes were laid out with marinated chicken and vegetables, thoughtfully laid out separately. The non-veggies were soon busy piercing the skewers into the chicken and setting it on the coal for grilling. Our veggie friends were doing the same with their paneer and potatoes. There was cheerful banter as everyone took turns grilling juicy chunks of chicken and veggies. The night ended on a more serious note with some revision of the birds we had sighted.

Our last day of the trip, we were now headed for a cruise on the Zuari river in search of marine birds. Zuari is the largest river of Goa. The Zuari along with the river Mandovi form the backbone of the river system of Goa. The two rivers are connected by Cumbarjuem Canal. The mangrove habitat along this canal supports a wide array of bird life in this region. 

Brahminy Kite

Even as we waited at the jetty for the boat to arrive, several Brahminy Kites were intensely scouring the waters from the skies. We dug into our packed breakfast while we waited. Soon we were on the boat and cruising off into the river. 

A visual treat soon followed. Several Greater Crested Terns had perched themselves on the bamboos anchored by fisherfolk for securing their nets. There were a few Sandwich Terns too amongst them. They usually forage in the shallow waters of lagoons, coral reefs and estuaries and sometimes also far out in the open seas. 

Large Egrets waiting for the best catch!

A little further down, a huge congregation of Large Egrets sitting along the nets made a pretty picture. The nets had provided a wonderful opportunity for these birds to forage. As Gull-billed, Whiskered and River Terns hovered ravenously over the water, a majestic White Bellied Sea Eagle flew strongly towards us. He had apparently already spotted his prey beneath the surface of the water and, before we knew it, had swooped down and grabbed it with his fierce talons and was soon on his way to find a suitable perch to devour the hapless fish. It was an incredible sight!

White Bellied Sea Eagle with his prized catch!

As we passed under a bridge spanning the river, a Peregrine Falcon sat precariously on a bolt under the bridge. This was apparently his favourite spot and was often seen here feasting on his catch of the day.

As we cruised along the river towards the Cumbarjuem Canal, we were now closer to the mangrove habitat. It was here that we saw 5 different species of Kingfisher – White Throated, Collared, Black Capped, Pied and Common Kingfisher. 

Black Crowned Night Heron

A lone Night Heron sat attentively in the mangroves. A huge crocodile lurked on the banks, while several Black Headed Ibis sat atop a thick bare branch jutting out through the mangrove foliage.

Black Headed Ibis

Western Reef Egret

It was now time to turn around and return to the jetty as we had one more session of birding at the Maina Lake before heading to Madgaon for that evening train back home. But the drama just didn’t cease to end. A stately Osprey gave us our parting shot.

At Maina Lake, another visual delight followed. Thousands of Lesser Whistling Teals, Cotton Pygmy Gooses, Shovellers,  Garganey and several other waders crowded the lake.  A lesser-known lake, Maina Lake is one of the largest and most productive wetlands in Goa in terms of birding. Marshy and covered with water lilies, it is filled with a wide variety of water-birds. Purple Swamphen, White-breasted Waterhen, Pond Herons and Egrets on the periphery were graceful even while stalking fish. The nearby paddy fields and woodland of Maina Lake provide a good habitat for Warblers, Munias and various woodpeckers, bee-eaters and parakeets. As we readied to return to our bus, a spectacular flock of hundreds of Glossy Ibis gave us the most memorable farewell one can ever get.

Lesser Whistling Duck

This beauty pageant of the natural world was indeed an experience to cherish and remember. But in the end, it would be unfair to declare a winner, as each and every living being of this incredible natural world is beautiful in its own way. It has immense beauty, incomparable to any man made world. Let us cherish the natural world because we are all a part of it and we depend on it.

In the end, it would only be appropriate to quote the most passionate naturalist in the world, Sir David Attenborough. “The natural world is a great treasure that humanity has and that we are part of. Every mouthful of food we eat, every breath of air we breathe depends on the natural world. If we damage this natural world we damage ourselves …. “ (in a recent interview to NDTV)

Thanks Adesh and Mandar for giving me an experience I will cherish for a lifetime.

Thanks Sweedle, for being my bouncing board J

Nivedita Kothare

Goa – November 2015

ALL CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL

As children, most of us would be familiar with the fairytale about the frog who magically turns into “prince charming” on being kissed by a princess. The very perception of the frog turning into a “handsome” prince, meant that we looked at frogs as ugly and slimy little creatures. Didn’t we?
Well, to some they would indeed seem ugly and slimy. But if we try and understand the role their play in our very lives and on our very survival, our perception of ugliness and beauty would change forever.

Amphibians have a great impact in sustaining biodiversity and ensuring that forest cover remains, monsoon showers occur in time and rivers do not run dry. It’s very simple. Frogs feed on insects and so keep their population under control. If frogs and toads are gone, it will lead to rise in insect population, which is their main food. These insects will then devour leaves destroying entire forests leading to reduced ground water precipitation. As a result, clouds will not form and thus without rains, rivers will run dry. Put simply, the disappearance of frogs will ultimately affect forests, rivers and consequently us humans as well. That’s how important frogs are to us. But sadly, their numbers are decreasing.

There are more than 4,700 species of frogs in the entire world. It will be of interest to learn that, historically, when species faced extinction, one species of amphibian would disappear every 250 years. Unfortunately, in the last 35 years alone, about 120 amphibian species, including frogs, toads and salamanders, have disappeared!!

My recent trip to forests of Amboli with Nature India was an eye-opening experience for me. Adesh’s extensive knowledge about every aspect of nature, coupled with the expertise of Saunak Pal in the field of herpetology made my trip a memorable and very enlightening one indeed.
Amboli is a quaint hill station nestled amidst lush foliage on the Sahyadri Mountain Range in the southern-most region of Maharashtra. Perched at a height of approx 700m above sea level, it has the distinction of being the wettest region in Maharashtra receiving about 7500 mm of rainfall annually. This tiny region abounds in unique flora and fauna. Especially rich in herpetofauna, wild flowers and birds, the star attractions for nature enthusiasts like me are the wonderful array of reptiles and amphibians found in the region.

Although the regular route to Amboli is via Sawantwadi which is only about 35 kms away, we were advised very wisely by Adesh to travel via Kolhapur which is thrice the distance. Adesh’s vast travel experience had prompted this decision. The Konkan Rail which connects Mumbai to Sawantwadi runs along a landslide prone area especially during the monsoons. Train cancellations and delays are commonplace at this time of the year. So to avoid any disappointment the marginally longer journey would ensure that we reached Amboli despite heavy rains and consequent rail disruptions.



The longer route wasn’t without its perks too. Along the way, near the small town of Aajara, we stopped to get a glimpse of a unique ground orchid – Long-tailed Habenaria (Habenaria longicorniculata) commonly known as Sheput Habe amri in Marathi. A terrestrial orchid with small white flowers, it is unique for its almost 6 inch long spur in which it stores nectar. It is interesting to note that most orchids have specific pollinators. In this case, only a certain species of hawk moth with equally long proboscis, aids in pollinating this orchid.
Orchids reproduce by cross-pollination with birds and insects carrying pollen from the stamen of one orchid to the pistil of another.  They use a variety of intricate strategies for attracting the many specific pollinators on which their survival depends. Consequently, the orchid and pollinator have evolved together. Orchids have evolved some of the most complicated pollination systems of all plants. Many orchids look like or smell like bees, which is what attracts bees to them. Other orchids, like one orchid species of South America attracts bees by a process called ‘pseudo-antagonism’. Parts of the orchid resemble an enemy insect which bees try to attack. During the assault pollen attaches itself to the attacking bee! The small wonders of nature!


We arrived in Amboli in time for lunch. Delectable Malwani cuisine awaited us at Hotel Satpurush. Fried fish, malwani chicken curry and a delicious vegetarian spread were served with much love. An unlimited supply of ‘solkadi’ completed the ever so scrumptious meal.
It had been raining incessantly since the time we arrived. The mist hung low in the air giving a mysterious feel to the surroundings. The silhouette of the nearby Shiva temple held me spell-bound. There was a slight nip in the air too. It was just divine! It was soon time for our first trail into the fabled forests of Amboli. Armed with leech-guard socks, torch-lights, ponchos and umbrellas, we set out into the forest.
The moist deciduous forests of Amboli are thick and dense. Very little sunlight seeps in through the dense foliage. It was misty. Leaves littered the floor of the forest creating an ideal habitat for numerous insects, amphibians and reptiles. Small puddles of water made by the steady rainfall provided frogs with nurseries to lay their eggs. Leeches thrived in the leaf litter. There was an orchestra being played out in the forest. The rhythmic tapping of the Bombay Bush frogs a.k.a typewriter frog set the tone for symphony. Amboli bush frogs, Malabar gliding frogs, bronze frogs and a band of toads and crickets lent the chorus. The sound of the rain drops maintained the tempo in the background.

The breeding season for most amphibians is during the monsoons and it is at this time that they are lustily vocal. The competition to attract a favourable suitor is fierce.
As we made our way through the forest, the incessant rain had made visibility difficult. It was cloudy and moist. Guiding us with their torch-lights, Mandar, Adesh and Saunak scanned the foliage in anticipation. An Amboli toad sat on a wet rocky surface.  It was so well camouflaged against the moss laden stone that it took us a while to actually see it. I little further, an indirana ( leaping frog) sat hidden in a crevice of a rock. A clump of eggs lay ahead of him.

This was just the beginning of an intriguing odyssey.

While Shaunak was sharing interesting information about toads and frogs, Abhijeet, a fellow participant, who was also scanning the jungle noticed what was to be the star attraction of the trip. The Malabar gliding frog. Bright leaf green in colour, this arboreal frog has red webs on its feet and eyes that bulge out of its little head. Almost toy-like, these frogs can blend in perfectly with the environment inspite of their vivid colours. Like most frogs, the Malabar gliding frogs rest in the foliage during the day and are active at night. Remaining mostly in the lower canopy, this species, unlike others, builds nests in trees. The nests are made of foam from body fluids on the surface of a leaf, whose location is selected in such a way that it is strategically positioned above puddles of water. This ensures that the tadpoles that develop from the fertilized eggs fall into the water where they eventually develop into adult frogs. Clever strategy is after all the key to survival.

In the moist forest, as all of us eagerly observed and photographed these pretty croakers, a sudden alert was sounded by Mandar. Unnoticed by all of us, a Malabar Pit Viper sat stealthily on a tree at immediate striking distance!! In fact it lay coiled on the very branch which many of us had taken the support of, to enter the foliage to see the gliding frogs! It was a close call.

Malabar Pit Vipers are venomous snakes that are most active at night. It is also during the monsoons that they become more active. This particular individual was lying low probably waiting in ambush to strike at one of the numerous Malabar Gliding frogs that its meal consists of. Our focus had now changed to this handsome predator.

Found in various shades of grey, azure green, brown and yellow, there is no common colour or pattern in Malabar Pit Vipers. This phenomenon of different colour morphs in a single species is known as polymorphism. Polymorphism could be a strategy used by certain species to confuse predators thus giving them a survival advantage. Indeed some clever strategy! We were lucky to see an individual in its orange morph too, the very next day.

Another intriguing experience was the encounter with a Tarantula spider. Tarantulas are well known to the western world. But most people in India are not aware of the presence of Tarantulas in this country. People find them creepy because of their large, hairy bodies and legs. But these spiders are harmless to humans (except for the extremely painful bite). Tarantulas do not use webs to ensnare their prey though they do make burrows to hide in.

As we returned to the hotel that evening drenched through in enthusiasm, Amboli toads jumped around on the road leading to the hotel. Some were in amplexus (the mating position of frogs and toads, in which the male clasps the female around the back), others just leaping around looking for mates.

There was a tapping sound in the background, as if someone was tapping at the keys of the good old typewriter! It was the Bombay Bush frog. Aptly christened typewriter frog, for its call that resembles the tapping of a typewriter, Saunak had spotted a tiny individual on the leaf of a nearby bush.

As amphibians and frogs are nocturnal creatures, observing them in the night was the appropriate thing to do. After a delectable Malwani dinner, we set out once again for the nearby Amboli Vanudyan. A dim glimmer of moonlight filtered through the thickets. The rhythmic tapping of the Bombay bush frogs and the high pitched song of the cicadas broke the silence of the night. A Deccan Banded Gecko scampered across the path. The poor fellow had lost his tail presumably in an attack or accident. A Lynx spider sat stealthily on a leaf. Suddenly, there was hushed excitement as someone spotted a stick insect as long as a foot ruler! In the guise of a twig, it was difficult to see the creature despite its huge size.

 Stick insects have a remarkable defence mechanism in the form of camouflage. They have the ability to resemble stems, twigs and leaves, and the bodies of some species are even covered in moss-like growths that supplement their disguise. Some species have the ability to change colour depending on their surroundings. In a further fascinating behavioural adaptation some stick insects make a rocking motion which mimics the movement of leaves or twigs swaying in the breeze! A grand design for survival!

The numerous Malabar gliding frogs, jumping restlessly all over the ‘udyan’, looked like delightful plastic toys scattered all over the place by a mischievous little child. They were literally all over – on the trees, on the rim of the well, on the moist ground, even inside the temple. The ‘ling’ dedicated to Lord Shiva was brimming with frog’s eggs. Tadpoles in various stages of development slithered around in the dampness. Delicate wild Balsam flowers popped out from the moss laden ground. Toads hopped around in search of mates. It was well past midnight when we left the udyan, but the drama being played out in the forest had just begun.
The forest was alive and bustling with activity.

The delectable breakfast of kanda-poha and simmering hot tea, served at Hemant Ogale’s turned out to be great fuel for the long and arduous day that lay ahead.

The route to Parikshit Point, our destination for the day, is a mildly strenuous hike through a dense, leech infested forest. The decomposing leaf litter that covers the forest floor creates an ideal habitat for leeches. Leeches thrive on the blood of mammals and they can instinctively sense their presence. Though leeches are not harmful to us humans, it will be rather pretentious on my part to say that they didn’t freak me out! The leech-guard socks, firmly secured right upto my knees, were to be my saviours of sorts. But despite the socks, I had four or five leeches on my body at the end of the day. One even managed to get upto my neck, literally! But I was luckier than a fellow participant, Ajay, who had atleast a dozen or more leeches creeping all over on the insides of his poncho :(  It was the Volini spray that we were armed with, that eventually came to his rescue.
A leech stuck to our body usually falls off if a pinch of salt is sprinkled on it. Volini acts in very much the same way and is more convenient than lugging along a packet of salt.

Along the way we had a glimpse of a host of intriguing creatures. A Pill millipede lay all coiled up like a ball, presumably threatened by our presence.  This species of millipede, when threatened, rolls into a tight ball. Bronze frogs, that usually remain closer to the ground near small puddles of water, leaped around playfully. A beautiful orange centipede swiftly wriggled past. An intriguing mushroom called ‘dead man’s finger’ looked phantom-like growing out from a crack in a rock.

 At the end of the long hike in the incessant rain through dense foliage, emerging onto the top of Parikshit Point, seemed as if we had emerged into paradise! Although it was overcast, a glimpse of the sky provided much relief. It was an amazing sight to behold! The entire expanse of the plateau was covered in lush green Topli Karvi shrubs. The visual was astounding. It seemed as if many green ‘toplis’ were placed overturned on the ground. The peculiarity of this shrub is the hemispherical tuft that is formed on the ground from its numerous stems. The shrub flowers only once in seven years. It was sheer bliss from the leech laden path we had just left behind.

It was on this plateau that we encountered the rare caecilian, the Ichthyophis davidii. Caecilians look like worms but are actually limbless amphibians. Very little is known about these astonishing creatures. Another spectacular sighting was the Pied-bellied Shieldtail. A non-venomous snake found all over the Western Ghats, it is slender and smooth and has a striking blue iridescence.











Satiated from the overwhelming experience, it was now our bellies that needed to be gratified.
As dusk fell, the drizzle continued. The last 2 days had seen periodical alternating between heavy and light showers. Mist was a constant. We headed for a short walk to a dilapidated old palace nearby. There is beautiful saying in hindi that speaks of the beauty of a palace being seen in its ruins. (Khandar batatien hai ki imaarat kitni khoobsoorat thi)  This couldn’t have been a better example. The moss laden dilapidated structure could have been nothing short of majestic. The cracked moist walls and ceilings, the crumbling staircases and the eroded floors seemed to reflect the lost glory.

All sorts of creatures now inhabited the old structure. A Horse-shoe Bat hung from the cob-webbed ceiling. A Malabar Whistling thrush found the palace a safe haven to make its nest. The croaking of the wrinkled frog echoed through the ruins. The mist, hanging low, added to the intrigue.

Thirsting for some more exploits in the alluring forests of Amboli, yet another night trail beckoned us. The usual drama was being played out in the forest. For the numerous toads, frogs, insects, skinks and geckos, it was life as usual. It was during this last trail that we had our most memorable sighting…. the sighting of the Malabar Pit viper in its orange morph. There couldn’t have been a better way of calling it a day…..or rather night!

Our last morning in enticing Amboli was not to be without drama. There was a light drizzle. As we walked along the road leading to Shirgaonkar Point, several shallow puddles of water lined the main road. The puddles were covered with over-grown blades of grass. At first they seemed to be usual puddles of rain water. Closer scrutiny of the puddles made our eyes pop out in disbelief!  A couple of pairs of huge bulging eyes seemed to be floating on the surface of the water! It was not long before we learnt that those eyes belonged huge Bull Frogs that were lounging in the shallow puddles as they lay there completely motionless.


An array of hoppers, an owl moth and a hawk moth basked in the occasional sunshine. An ootheca (egg case) of a wasp hung precariously from a bush. The droplets of rain on moss laden branches made sublime images. The marvels of nature’s architects could be seen in the giant webs that hung from moss laden tree trunks. Beautiful ferns sprung out of cracks in trees trunks. Caterpillars of all shapes and sizes lay waiting to morph into beautiful butterflies and moths. Nature was celebrating the festival of life.

And as I remembered the fairytale of the frog turning into the handsome prince, meanwhile Nature was the princess busy kissing ugliness away and magically turning everything into a thing of beauty.

Nivedita Kothare
(Amboli - Aug 2015)

That Invisible God

Man is the most insane species. He worships an invisible God and slaughters a visible nature…. without realizing that this nature that he slaughters, is this invisible God that he worships. 

Hubert Reeves’ words ring so true.

I had just returned from a short but satisfying trip to Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) with Nature India, in the last week of April when I read the absolutely distressing news about a tiger cub being run over and killed by a speeding vehicle on the outskirts of the Reserve near Chandrapur. It was just a couple of days ago that we had waited so anxiously for that ever so precious moment for the tigress and her cubs to give us a glimpse of her majestic self. But although the wait was in vain, there hadn’t been an iota of disappointment. The solace was in the very existence of the tigress and her cubs.

Often referred to as the “Jewel of Vidarbha”, Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) derives its name from the local deity “Taru”. It is home to the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger (Panthera tigris tigris) and is a veritable treasure trove of many other wild animals, birds, reptiles, insects and flora.

It was a sweltering afternoon when we reached Moharli. We were a group of 13 including Adesh and Mandar under whose direction we would be for the next 2 days.  The sun was scorching down upon us at what must have been atleast 41-42° C as we stepped out of the comfort of our air-conditioned vehicles to unload our bags and check into the hotel, the Hornbill Resort. Far from what comes to one’s mind when we hear the word “resort”, this was a modest single storey building with 6 AC rooms and basic but clean facilities. It was definitely not a place where one would expect the luxury of a cold towel!

But yes!! there it was!! To our very pleasant surprise, we were offered cold towels and a warm welcome!! Such a wonderful gesture, especially in a place like Tadoba where most “resorts” have only basic boarding facilities, was truly admirable.
After a simple but sumptuous lunch fondly prepared by a local village gent and a quick afternoon nap, we were off on our first safari into the jungle. The open hood-less jeeps would provide obstruction-less views of the pristine forest and its inhabitants. The 13 of us were accommodated in 3 jeeps which would take their individual routes once inside the forest. We were 4 – Mr.Bhatia, Sweedle, Mandar and myself. This grouping would remain for next two days. The very knowledgeable Dashrath, was to be our guide.

As my jeep entered the forest through the Moharli Gate, we encountered ancient stone pillars on either side of the road. During the days of the Maharajas, these pillars were used to light up the path everytime a Maharaja would pass that way. “Mashals” or torches would be lit on each pillar as the gentry would pass, leading them along the path. It seems there were pillars right through the forest upto the city. But today most of them have been lost to development and the handful of ones that were within the forest have survived as testimony of a regal past.

The breath of fresh air as we drove through the dense dry deciduous forest came as a dose of a rejuvenating magic potion! Thick bamboo groves that provide ideal camouflage for the tiger surrounded us. The desire to see the tiger was apparent in everyone’s gaze as we scanned the forest in anticipation. After all, who wouldn’t want to experience the sight of a wild tiger in his natural habitat? But the tiger was to elude us for now.

As we drove further into the forest there was a subtle movement in the thickets. All of us were alert at the prospect of spotting a wild animal. I stood up in the open jeep excitedly. Our guide had spotted a sloth bear!

Oblivious of our presence, the beautiful beast was wandering around in search of food. We waited with baited breath, our anxious eyes following his movement in the thickets until he made an appearance in the open. Oh what a sight! The bear continued sniffing around on the floor of the forest for a few minutes. Soon, our excitement had alerted the animal. He gently lifted his head up and gave us cool glance, before walking past our jeep, across the road and then making a dash for the jungle!

The forest was alive with the calls of birds, langurs and deer. It was music to my ears. Wild Jamun trees, the Ain tree with its ‘crocodile’ bark, the Mahua tree in all its splendour, the majestic Arjuna, Palash, Amaltas, Red Silk cotton, all in full bloom were a sight to behold. Yellow throated sparrows flitted about as we drove beneath the canopy of these magnificent trees.

The Indian Roller showed his ‘true colours’ as he flew off his perch on seeing us. (Indian Rollers at first seem to be dull brown coloured birds when they are perched. But the moment they take flight, they display their glistening blue, white and green shades). The langurs and herds of spotted deer looked quizzingly at us as they hung around with their families and friends.

The Crested Serpent eagle perched atop the ‘Ain’ tree made an interesting picture. Its piercing yellow eyes standing out in stark contrast against its brown body, the crocodile-skin-like bark of the Ain adding to the mystique.

A little further a Spotted owlet was calling. Not so easy to spot though! So great was its camouflage that although we knew which direction the call was coming from, and it wasn’t too far either, it took us a while to see it. As we drove into the dusk, grey jungle fowl crossed our path, making for beautiful back-lit pictures.

It was an end to a very satisfying day in the jungle. Some refreshing luxury awaited us at the resort. Yes, the cold towels! They were such a respite from the scorching heat! A pat on the back to the ever so considerate Manish Verma for this luxury. Dinner was followed by a re-cap of the day’s sightings by various participants and we were off to bed early as the next day would begin before dawn.

As my alarm rang out at 4.15 the next morning, I sprang out of bed to take a quick shower and get ready to make way for my room-mate Rasika, a beautiful young girl, all of 17. We were set for another exciting day in the jungle. Being served tea at 5 in the morning was another luxury we were lucky to have. Usually resorts around wildlife sanctuaries, especially in a place like Tadoba, do not offer any services at that hour in the morning. The entry to the park begins at 6 in the morning and guests are expected to have their breakfast only after 11 when they return from the safari. We were lucky to have packed breakfast too…. a sumptuous omlette sandwich coupled with the joy of eating it in the middle of the forest!

The rays of light from the rising sun filtered through the canopy of the jungle.  As we drove leisurely into the park, we encountered to two men on foot. They were the local tribal people who earned their livelihood working in the reserve forest, creating fire lines, digging water holes, etc. We had a casual chat with them, enquiring anxiously about their safety, after which they left. A few minutes later, we noticed them stop in their path about fifty meters away, standing there motionless. It was only on looking closely that we realized that they had spotted a leopard and were giving him his right of way. Our hearts pounding with excitement, we sped in the direction of the men. The cool cat had just walked elegantly past. We were lucky to have a fleeting glimpse of the leopard as it disappeared into the thickets as mysteriously as it had appeared. But it was only minutes later that we realized that in our excitement to catch a glimpse of one big cat, we had missed out on the second leopard! It was in the exact opposite direction in which we were looking and had probably got a good sighting of our backsides! The men on foot had seen both and were trying their best to alert us, but in vain!

The excitement was at its peak! As we drove along we came across a stream alongside a shady grove. The driver of our safari brought the jeep to a sudden halt. A big cat again? No, this time it wasn’t an animal but an elegant bird! Perched low on a bark just above the stream was a huge owl! The Brown Fish Owl! Completely unperturbed by our excitement, the mystical creature just sat there, his piercing gaze holding us captive. As much as I wanted to pick up my camera and take the prized picture, I also wanted to see this beauty with my bare eyes. The choice has always been my dilemma. But this time luck favoured me. With a bit of help from Adesh, I took my pictures AND got to see this regal bird to my heart’s content.

The flowers of Ukshi (calicopterus floribunda) were in full bloom. As we were admiring the beautiful white flowers, Adesh pointed out to an Arjuna tree which had several scratches on its bark. They were the territorial markings made by the sloth bear. A pair of barking deer was at a water hole nearby. On seeing our jeep, the incredibly timid deer made a dash for the woods. A sambar pair stood alert as we clicked away with our cameras. The sun was now becoming stronger. As we reached the junction of Jamunzora and Pandharpaoni, Sweedle suggested we stop for breakfast. No time was wasted in accepting her suggestion! We were soon savouring the most delicious omlette sandwich ever, right there in the middle of the forest! What a life!

Our stomachs full, we continued our drive towards Pandharpaoni. A little Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, regardless of our presence, was busy clambering up and down a slim bark hunting for food. There was hole in the bark which could have been his nest. Not far from here, we noticed a huge bee hive high on a tree. It was no surprise then when we saw an Oriental Honey Buzzard sitting right across. Honey buzzards feed on bees and wasps and it is interesting how nature has evolved scale-like feathers around the eyes and forehead which give it protection from the stings of the wasps and bees it preys upon.

The sun was now getting stronger. It was a little past10. The jeeps must leave the forest by 11 sharp. The drivers are penalized if they are late and so we began our return drive. There were thick bamboo groves on either side.

The vehicle in front of us had kicked up a cloud of dust. And through the dust I saw an ST bus approaching us. I was surprised to know that the bus regularly plies right through the reserve forest to ferry folk from a village inside the forest. The inhabitants of the village will soon be relocated outside the forest after which the ST bus would stop plying. As we made our way down the dusty path, we noticed a jeep waiting in the middle, its occupants in pin drop silence.

The guide of the jeep informed us that they had just seen a tiger disappear into the bamboo groves. They were waiting in the hope of it coming out. The excitement had suddenly returned! We too stopped our jeep and began scouring the bamboo thickets for any sign of the predator. In a situation like this, most of us begin hallucinating about the tiger. Every branch, every stone, everything seems to look like a tiger!! Many anxious moments later, Adesh, scanning the jungle with my binoculars, gave out a soft shriek. His razor sharp eyes had spotted the big cat. As I peered through the binoculars, I saw the majestic animal sitting there. It was truly a huge cat, sitting behind a clump of bamboo, face towards us. His face slowly became visible to me. Soon I could see his feet and noticed that he was about to get up. The excitement continued as we hoped he would come out in the open and oblige us with a glimpse of his majestic self. But he wished otherwise. I followed him with my binocs as he stood up and began walking deeper into the forest. The sight was a feast to my eyes! Even with such bright colours, it is fascinating how they blend in with their surroundings! The majestic animal soon disappeared into the forest. It was indeed a wonderful end to our morning safari. We managed to leave the gate at the stroke of 11, but not before getting a wonderful glimpse of a sharp-eyed Shikra on our way out.

Back at the resort, the cold towels offered great respite from the sweltering summer heat.

A wonderful thing about going on nature trips with Nature India is that all participants are treated as family. We eat together, have conversations, poke fun at each other…. There is a lot of camaraderie amongst participants. Also the post lunch and dinner discussions are very informative as Adesh and Mandar share amazing facts, stories and their experiences.

Our afternoon safari began with the sighting of the Red Spurfowl. As the fowl scampered into the glades, an excited Adesh was trying hard to draw our attention to something he had sighted on the other side of the road. From his gestures, we guessed it was something rarely seen. Sure enough, the little creature made a dash across the road offering us a wonderful view of himself. It was the Tree Shrew! Despite its name, the tree shrew is not particularly arboreal but spends much of its time on the ground or clambering about on rocky terrain in search of insects and seeds. It was this characteristic that was on display right before our eyes.

Onwards towards the Telia dam a Pied Kingfisher hovered over the water as we approached. A solitary Black Ibis, many whistling ducks, egrets, herons, jacanas and cormorants were taking in the evening sun in the dam waters. A huge marsh crocodile was basking at the edge of the water. We spent a good amount of time soaking in the incredible view of deer with their reflection in the dam waters against the setting sun and the birds readying to roost.

As dusk fell it was time for us to return to the gate. The forest was like an open air orchestra, playing out a symphony of the most incredible sounds. The cantankerous call of the golden oriole, jungle babblers raising a hue and cry, parakeets zipping noisily above the canopy, the distant call of the jungle owlet and laughing dove, magpie robins singing out sweet melodies, an iora’s low decibel rhythm, flame-backed woodpeckers darting noisily back to their roosts…… as I sat there in the back seat of the jeep mesmerized by the music that was being played out, a subtle movement in the dry leaves at the edge of the road snapped me out of my stupor. It was a Black Naped Hare who was foraging through the dry leaves oblivious of our presence. So camouflaged was he that it took us a while to first see and later identify him.

And as if this camouflage was not enough, we soon stumbled upon a Savannah Nightjar a little further down. Not very easy to sight, Nightjars are crepuscular birds whose cryptic coloured plumage resembles dry leaves or the bark of a tree. They often sit along a bark rather than across it, or on the ground which helps conceal them during the day. Our driver had brought the jeep to almost a hand-shake away when we realized that there was indeed a bird sitting on the floor of the jungle amongst the dry leaves.

The Sirkeer Malkoha gave us a parting shot just before we left the gate at the designated time of 6 pm.

Dinner was followed by the usual round of discussion and it was early to bed as usual. My dreams were of the glorious wilderness :)

After a stimulating cup of warm tea at 5 in the morning, everyone was raring to go for that last safari of the trip. A long queue of gypsies was ahead of us as we awaited our turn itching to enter the jungle quickly.

A pair of Indian Gaur were foraging in the dry leaves as we entered. One of them looked sheepishly up at us before returning to his activity. An Orange Headed Ground Thrush scurried inside the bamboo glades.

As we peered inside straining our eyes to catch a glimpse, we were alerted by the call of the Indian Pitta. Lo and behold! Perched up on a distant tree was this charming little gem also called Navrang! The Indian Pitta is a migratory bird which breeds in north and central India and migrates down south through peninsular India upto Sri Lanka. It is a breeding migrant in Tadoba where there are confirmed records of breeding Pittas. It also passes through SGNP in Mumbai where we often see him at the onset of the monsoon before he leaves for his return journey back north.  This was my first sighting of this season.

As the day advanced dappled sunlight filtered through the vegetation painting a beautiful picture. A lone Grey Jungle Fowl, unmindful of our presence, was roaming around in the shrubs. His vibrant plumage stood out against the sunlight. It was a magical moment.

As we passed through Waghdoh, the sound of the cicadas, which was till now coming from a distance, slowly seemed to come closer and soon grew to a crescendo. It was almost deafening. Suddenly we were surrounded by thousands of noisy cicadas. And then the cicada rain! When many cicadas congregate on warm days, they feed on the tree fluids and often ‘urinate’ while doing so. However, this ‘pee’ does not stink or stain. In fact, it feels like rain drops! What mystique the forest holds! No sooner we were out of the cicada rain than we saw the floor of the forest carpeted with the beautiful off-white flowers of the Mahua. We reached for some of them to savour their sweet taste. The Mahua tree is one of India’s most versatile trees. While the flowers and fruits are sweet to taste and are used to make syrups and jams, the fermented flowers produce an intoxicating drink which is a favourite of locals and animals alike. Langurs and bears have often been seen walking with a slight swagger after ingesting rotting flowers! The bark produces oil which has medicinal value and is also used as biodiesel.

The Mahua flowers seemed have aroused our hunger! The warm packets of ‘poha’ neatly packed away in the seat pockets could no longer be ignored. So there we were enjoying the delicious ‘poha’ under the canopy of the Mahua, Teak, Arjun, Palash and so many more trees. Our appetite whetted, we continued with the safari. A Ruddy Mongoose walked hurriedly across the road. Our jeep rolled slowly along. A Golden Oriole called out from a distance and soon showed up.

As we gazed with delight at the vibrant bird, a movement in the grass beneath caught our attention. And even before we could say the word ‘rat’ a huge Rat Snake slithered nimbly past us and disappeared into his hole at the edge of the road. It was another heart-stopping moment for us! As we waited at a toilet facility nearby several Fruit Bats hung upside down on a Ficus tree. After observing the bats for a few minutes, we were soon on our way. As we scanned the forest, we came across a huge bare tree. High up on one of the branches, was perched a majestic Crested Hawk Eagle. We soon noticed that there was a nest and on closer scrutiny with our binocs, we saw the chicks too! There were two of them safely nestled away from any possible danger of predators. Even as the eagle was perched high up on the tree, a little distance away a Greater Racket Tailed Drongo had perched himself on a very low branch. His crest standing out crisply on his glistening black body, he was a sight to behold!



A quick look at the watch indicated that we should be now making our way back in order to get to the gate before the deadline of 11. We were still quite deep inside the jungle when another gypsy carrying some excited tourists crossed us. Their beaming smiles spoke more than the words which followed! They had just seen a tigress with her cubs! Pointing out the direction in which the tigress had gone they wished us luck and drove away. Our driver tried his best to reach the spot in time before the tigress disappeared. Our hearts pounding with excitement, we reached the spot only to find 10-11 other gypsies waiting there with anxious occupants. But the tigress was not in sight. They were all waiting with the hope that she would come out sooner or later. But alas. Our thirty minute wait was in vain. I would admit that there was some amount of disappointment at not seeing the tiger. After all, the sight of a tiger in the wild is priceless. But there was also the solace of the very existence of the tigress and her cubs in that forest. Alas! My excitement was to turn into anguish a few days later when the news of the death of one of the cubs was published. Our trip had been so fruitful in terms of all the sightings we had, thanks to Adesh’s and Mandar’s alertness. This news was so distressing. Not in my wildest dream had I thought that such a wonderful trip would end on such a sad note.

Ecologically speaking, the loss of tigers from their natural habitat would result in irreversible changes in natural ecosystems. Being at the top of the food pyramid, the decline of large predators leads to abundance of herbivores such as deer, which in turn has repercussions on tree regeneration and seed dispersal. Such effects reverberate through the food-web, causing long-term changes in natural flora and fauna, eventually leading to destruction of the entire natural ecosystem. An ecosystem that we humans too are part of.

Revisiting Hubert Reeves’ words, ‘Man worships an invisible God and slaughters a visible nature, without realizing that this nature that he slaughters, is this invisible God that he worships’, we must understand that it is this invisible God, this nature, that is in reality the very reason for our existence. It is because of Her that we exist. And if we continue to slaughter this invisible God, we are threatening are very own existence.

Nivedita Kotharé

April 2015