Chasing Mirages in LRK!

Chasing Mirages in LRK! 

We often see a mirage in vast expanses of flat land, especially deserts. When light passes through two layers of air with different temperatures, the refracted light produces an optical illusion of a distant object or of a ‘lake’ in the middle of a desert. But the ‘lake’ is actually just a reflection of the sky above.

The word ‘mirage’ is derived from the Latin ‘mirari’ which means ‘to marvel or be amazed’.

And amazed I was to experience the diversity of life in the dry and inhospitable landscape of the Little Rann of Kutch. And once again my pilgrimage was to be with Nature India! Well, being an agnostic, I consider Nature itself to be my ‘God’ and so these nature outings are my pilgrimages.

After an overnight journey on the Mumbai-Ahmedabad Duronto Express, Mandar and I landed at Ahmedabad in the wee hours of the morning. There was a nip in the air and dawn was just about breaking. We wound our way through the chaos of cacophonous taxis, auto-rickshaws and people to meet the other members of our group. This time around, Adesh was not with us as he was birding in the Andamans. As always, I looked forward to some great birding!

Just outside the railway station, the drama had already begun! Above the cacophony of blaring horns and hollering parking attendants, the shrill calls of the Rose Ringed Parakeets were like music to our ears. There could have easily been about a hundred of them gathering on the nearby peepul trees, ready to begin their feeding frenzy after a long night of rest. To add to the drama, as dawn started to break a huge flock of Rosy Starlings created rhythmic patterns in the sky with their ‘murmuration’. It was indeed a great start to an exciting trip that was to follow.

We were a small group of six individuals and as per the itinerary we were to head straight to Bajana where our resort was located. But Mandar had just got the news that the rare Sociable Lapwing had been sighted near Nalsarovar recently. We were excited, as most of us hadn’t seen the bird before. A quick nod from everyone, and it was agreed that we take a little detour to tick off this little birdie on our list. The pursuit of a previously located rare bird is called ‘twitching’ in birding parlance. But it is also during pursuits such as these that one often finds other interesting species as well. And sure enough, during the chase to find the Sociable Lapwings, we chanced upon Black Headed Buntings and another winter visitor, the “parkini” species of the House Sparrow (passer domesticus parkini).

House Sparrow (Passer Domesticus Parkini)

The chase itself was fruitful as Shabbir, our bird-guide had managed to track down the location of the lapwings we were pursuing. In Paulo Coelho’s words “When you really want something, the entire universe conspires in helping you to achieve it!” Well, here that ‘entire universe’ was our bird guide Shabbir, whose determination and skill helped us track down the little beauties! Soon we were trudging in ankle deep slush through lush paddy fields in our tryst to get a glimpse of this Sociable Lapwing.

Sociable Lapwing

Satiated by the sightings we headed to Bajana, where we were to go originally. Along the way Eurasian Collared Doves cooed away from overhead wires. A pair of Sarus Cranes fed on seeds and other grains in the paddy fields at a distance. There was a flock of Common Cranes too. Ibises, Spoonbills, Storks and Stilts gave us their routine ‘darshan’. Greylag Geese, Lesser Whistling Ducks and a lone Ruddy Shelduck were some of the usual suspects. The sight of a Pied Kingfisher hovering above the water before diving in to catch its prey never fails to titillate a birder! As a Marsh Harrier flew low over the fields in the distance, our guide Shabbir suggested a nearby spot where falcons and other birds of prey are usually seen.

Greylag Geese

We soon reached the suggested spot. Sure enough, high atop an electric tower, a pair of Red-necked Falcons were nesting. We jumped in joy on seeing the tail of one of the birds jutting out from the nest as we craned our necks to get a good glimpse. If only the tail of a bird elicited such excitement you can imagine what happens when the entire bird is seen!! J One could compare the scene to a group of kids just being given their favourite toy! The second bird wasn’t too far from the nest and had perched itself on the same tower a couple of feet below. Just as we were taking in the sighting of this majestic bird, two Booted Eagles flew overhead. And as our keen eyes followed their robust flight, another stately bird of prey, the Short-toed Snake Eagle came into view. Perched high atop another tower his large ‘owl-like’ head was a clue to its identification.

As I stared at this beauty through my binocs, and strained my eyes to get a glimpse of the ‘short-toes’ of this eagle, albeit in vain, Dr. Salim Ali’s bird descriptions crossed my mind. His description of birds was always so precise and bang-on! He was the one to describe this particular bird as having a ‘large owl-like head’ way back in the late 1940s. He was so right!

So why the name Short-toed Snake Eagle? This is because birds are usually classified and named by persons known as taxonomists based on physiological features. Taxonomists study birds caught and stuffed for scientific research. The bird is literally in their hands! So names include ‘short-toed’, ‘short-eared’, etc., features that can be seen closely by them. But in the field, one can hardly see the toes of a bird, leave alone comparing them if they are short or long. Especially if it’s a bird of prey soaring high above the clouds. So should birds be named after the features they display on the field or such minute physiological features one can see only when held in one’s hand? Well that is another discussion altogether.

The Royal Safari Camp, Bajana was to be our home for the next 2 days. After a delicious lunch at the resort and a short rest in our cozy, tastefully done-up rooms we were ready for our first birding session in the Rann. The open safari jeep arrived at the appointed time.

Although named the ‘Little’ Rann of Kutch, it’s not little in any sense of the word! It sprawls out over 5,000 sqkm. It’s name makes sense only in comparison with the salt desert next door – the Greater Rann of Kutch, which stretches out across 7500 sqkm. The word rann literally means “salty desert”. Within the Little Rann is one of the country’s largest wildlife reserves, the Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary. It is also one of the last places on earth where the Indian Wild Ass or Khur (Equus hemionus khur) can be spotted. They are locally called ghudkhar.

While there are several routes one can take to explore the sanctuary, we took the Bajana route, which leads us to Nawa Talao.

As we entered the sanctuary enroute to the talao, a small group of Indian Wild Asses looked at us with curiosity. Their pale chestnut coat and dark erect mane with a dark brown stripe running along the back contrasted so beautifully in this landscape.  

Indian Wild Ass 

As I marveled at the beauty of those wild asses, I wondered when and how the word ‘ass’ became vulgar.  

Nawa Talao wasn’t exactly teeming with water birds. But the assortment of species was interesting. Great White or Rosy Pelicans occupied a large part of the fringes of the water-body. A few larger Dalmation Pelicans accompanied them. A handful of Greater and Lesser Flamingos tucked their heads into their back nuzzling their feathers with their beaks, while others skimmed the shallow waters for crustaceans and shrimps with their beaks upside-down. Their unique beaks allow flamingos to filter out the mud and silt from their food. 

A gaggle of Greylag Geese dabbled in the water. A lone Great Cormorant stood out amid a large congregation of Little and Indian Cormorants. The Egrets prancing around daintily in the shallow waters would give any ballet dancer a complex! 

Pied Avocets

And as always, the Pied Avocets never failed to fascinate me. A pair was delicately swaying their beaks from side to side as they foraged for insects and crustaceans in the shallow waters. Avocets indulge in two types of feeding methods. In clear water, they feed by sight by picking prey from the surface of water or mud. In poor visibility and when locating prey from within the sediments, they forage by touch, sweeping the long, up-curved bill from side to side through water or loose sediment to locate hidden prey. 

Northern Shovellers

There were a few Lesser Whistling Ducks among a flock of Northern Shovellers. A few Ruddy Shelducks, Gadwall, Eurasian Wigeons and Common Teals dabbled in the shallow waters. Glossy and Back-headed Ibises accompanied a few elegant Spoonbills and some Black-winged Stilts. A lone Eurasian Curlew flew past as we were observing a few Black-tailed Godwits. Greenshanks, Redshanks and Stints waded through as Brown and Black-headed Gulls bobbed on the water. The Caspian Tern, as always, drew the most ‘Wows and Oooohs and Aahhhs!’ As did the Pallas’ Gull.  

Caspian Tern

A sense of serenity prevailed as we watched over the water body.

The sanctuary is an expanse of dry scrub-land dotted by thorny acacia bushes which gets transformed into a wetland during the monsoons. The word ‘desert’ conjures up an image of a barren, lifeless landscape, but appearances can be deceptive. Although deserts are dry land habitats, they are certainly not ‘deserted’ and support a great diversity of life.

Among the mammals, other than the Indian Wild Ass, we encountered the Nilgai, Indian Fox and the Grey Mongoose. Rufous-tailed, Crested, Ashy-crowned and Great Short-toed Larks were so beautifully camouflaged on the dry land that we couldn’t see them until they flew off when they found us too close for comfort!

Crested Lark

A flock of Common Cranes foraged for food, digging into the dry land with their beaks to get to the roots. Although they are omnivorous, cranes largely eat plant matter, including roots, rhizomes and tubers. An Isabelline Shirke, a winter visitor to the North West of the Subcontinent, made a pretty picture as it perched on an acacia tree.

Isabelline Shrike

As we drove around the dry habitat, a few wet patches attracted Sandpipers, Plovers and Wagtails. Desert Wheatears and Stonechats too appeared occasionally. But it was the sight of not one or two but seven Montagu’s Harriers flying overhead that probably could have been the highlight of the day!

Short-eared Owl

As the light started to dim we headed westwards to catch a glimpse of the spectacular sunset that is often seen in this part of the sanctuary. But there is no dearth of drama on birding trips with Nature India! Some of which we were about to witness. Our driver cum bird-guide, Rahim suddenly began to drive around a certain area in circles. I was curious at this sudden oscillation. Why was he driving around like this, zigzagging, while keeping an eye on the ground? Suddenly he was not looking down any more and swerved the jeep away only to stop at some distance. He then pointed at a hedge at ground level. I could hardly believe what I saw! A Short-eared Owl sat majestically on the ground, completely camouflaged by the similarly coloured dry bushes. We had just passed it barely two feet away without noticing it. Rahim had often seen the beautiful specimen in this area. 

As we moved on leaving the owl to itself, a majestic Imperial Eagle gave us our parting shot against the backdrop of the spectacular sunset. It was truly a dramatic end to a very fulfilling birding session.

The next morning we were to head to the Rann. It was freezing cold as we boarded our safari jeep. Rahim had arrived at the resort at the crack of dawn. All wrapped up in woolens we took our places in the jeep in anticipation of yet another memorable birding session.

Our first drive into the terrain felt a little surreal. The ground was parched, the air was cold and dry and the barren earth unfolded endlessly in all directions. The Rann is a flat, white, parched and utterly barren land in the winter. But during the monsoons it gets filled with water. While driving through this parched landscape I noticed small mounds of earth rising like tiny hills intermittently at various distances. These mounds are called bets locally. The Rann is dotted with several such bets which serve as islands in the monsoon when the Rann gets flooded, providing shelter and food to animals.

As my room-mate Shobna and I were ‘marveling’ at the illusions of water amidst the vast stretch of desert in front of us, it wasn’t difficult to imagine how the world ‘mirage’ was coined. (It comes from the Latin ‘mirari’ which means ‘to marvel’). A Pallid Harrier perched itself on a log at a distance far away. A small flock of Common Cranes foraging nearby took to wing as we advanced towards them. A Desert Wheatear female sat on a thorny acacia assessing its surroundings. It was still freezing cold though the sun had risen. It is believed that cold weather is the reason for increase in your appetite. Well, whatever the reason may be, our appetite was surely on the rise on this cold morning! It was time for a breakfast break!

Later, as we drove along the parched cracked landscape I noticed a solitary bus far away at a distance. It seemed to be stationary and looked a bit out of place. On enquiring, Rahim told us that it was a school-on-wheels! Withdrawn state transport buses have recently been converted into moving classrooms with all the amenities to cater to the children of agarias or saltpan workers who are forced to migrate with their parents each year. Earlier, they would get to attend school in their village for only three months each year. 

Now, for the first time in 60 years, these children will no longer have to face the vagaries of nature when they accompany their parents into the desert for seven to eight months in a year. The harsh weather won’t be an impediment anymore for these children to study as they would attend classes in their new school-on-wheels!

The Striped Hyena is considered a ‘Near Threatened’ species among the bio-diversity of LRK. So the prospect of seeing this intriguing animal was overwhelming. Rahim knew the location of the den of one hyena family. Around this time they would most likely venture out in search of food, so the chances of seeing them were good. It was decided we try our luck in that area.

The location of the den was close to a village called Degam.  So we had to leave the Rann and re-enter from the village side. No sooner had our jeep re-entered the sanctuary than we inadvertently sent an unsuspecting Indian Thick-knee scampering into the bushes. On closer scrutiny, we found two more, much to our delight! A Common Kestrel perched on an acacia giving us a skeptical look. The vast parched landscape seemed endless. The land was dry and cracked. 

As we drove around scanning the landscape for some more of our feathered friends, we saw a handsome Peregrine Falcon perched on a stone pillar-like structure. We marveled at his beauty for a while, clicking pictures, trying to get  a good shot. It was now time to head to the hyena den.

We anxiously got off from the jeep and walked up to the vicinity of the den. Sitting down on the ground would make us less daunting if the animal were to see us and the chances of frightening it away would be fewer. So we sat crouched on the ground with bated breath and in pin drop silence. The anticipation of seeing a wild hyena was overwhelming.

Striped Hyena

The wait was not to be long, as within a few minutes the first hyena appeared from the bushes about 15 feet away! The presence of the animal at such close quarters was formidable! He noticed us instantly. I guess it was he who was more apprehensive than we were at the sight of this mass of six humans bundled together in his territory. He sniffed around for a bit and sensing that we were a harmless bunch, turned around and went about his job. In a few minutes another individual appeared. With similar apprehension he too stared at us for a couple of minutes before resuming his activity. The experience was overwhelming to say the least! We were actually staring at wild striped hyenas at very close quarters…. This one was definitely no mirage!!

It was soon time to head home. The drive back was like a rewind of the first day. A huge flock of cranes flew past as if to give us our last goodbye. The water-body was teeming with the same motley flocks of Greylag Geese, Lesser and Greater Flamingos, Shovellers, Wigeons, Godwits, Spoonbills, Avocets and Teals. We were pleasantly surprised to see a flock of Bar-headed Geese bobbing in the water.

Bar-headed Geese

As we raced away towards the exit, Chestnut Bellied Sandgrouse which were completely camouflaged in the similarly coloured ground came into view only when they were startled off by the movement of our jeep. The cryptic coloured larks too were seen in a similar fashion.

After a delicious lunch at the resort it was time to pack up and head back home. After the customary revision session in one of the open but shady courtyards of the resort we were relaxing on the ‘khatiyas’ when we saw Rahim come animatedly towards us. A Pallid Scops Owl had apparently made its home somewhere inside the resort. Mandar’s now infamous rant “jisko dhoonda gali gali woh makaan ke piche mili” came to mind! It was during the pursuit of the Andaman Barn Owl in the Little Andamans that this phrase had got coined!

Adding one more bird to the list is always welcome!

It is said that a traveller walks through many mirages before he finds water. Taking this in a lighter vien, if the traveller is me the birder and water is a bird, I can say with utmost confidence that I have seen many mirages before finding my water!! J


Thanks Mandar for the wonderful experience. Also thanks to Shabbir and Rahim for their expertise and patience J
Also, thanks Adesh... you were there with us in spirit!

Nivedita Kotharé

Little Rann of Kutch – 31^st Jan to 2^nd Feb 2020

Complete list of birds seen

Nalsarovar/Adroda

1.        Lesser Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna javanica)

2.        Graylag Goose (Anser anser)

3.        Ruddy Shelduck (Tadorna ferruginea)

4.        Eurasian Collared-Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)

5.        Sarus Crane (Antigone antigone)

6.        Common Crane (Grus grus)

7.        Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)

8.        Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus)

9.        Sociable Lapwing (Vanellus gregarius) – 14 individuals seen the paddy fields near Adroda

10.     Black Stork (Ciconia nigra)

11.     Painted Stork (Mycteria leucocephala)

12.     Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)

13.     Black-headed Ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus)

14.     Red-naped Ibis (Pseudibis papillosa)

15.     Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia)

16.     Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)

17.     Short-toed Snake-Eagle (Circaetus gallicus)

18.     Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus)

19.     Red-necked Falcon (Falco chicquera) – Nesting pair – on electric tower

20.     Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)

21.     Shikra (Accipiter badius)

22.     Black Kite (Milvus migrans)

23.     White-throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis)

24.     Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis)

25.     Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis)

26.     Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri)

27.     Red-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer)

28.     White-eared Bulbul (Pycnonotus leucotis)

29.     Rosy Starling (Pastor roseus)

30.     Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis)

31.     House Sparrow (Passer domesticus parkini)

32.     White Wagtail (Motacilla alba)

33.     Black-headed Bunting (Emberiza melanocephala)

Bajana/Wild Ass Sanctuary – LRK

1.        Lesser Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna javanica)               

2.        Bar-headed Goose (Anser indicus)                                      

3.        Graylag Goose (Anser anser)                                               

4.        Northern Shoveler (Spatula clypeata)                                

5.        Gadwall (Mareca strepera)                                                  

6.        Eurasian Wigeon (Mareca penelope)                                 

7.        Green-winged Teal (Anas crecca)                                       

8.        Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus) - 3 Females with chicks

9.        Jungle Bush-Quail (Perdicula asiatica)                               

10.     Rock Bush-Quail (Perdicula argoondah)                            

11.     Gray Francolin (Francolinus pondicerianus) - heard calling

12.     Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus)                      

13.     Lesser Flamingo (Phoeniconaias minor)                            

14.     Rock Pigeon (Feral Pigeon) (Columba livia (Feral Pigeon))       

15.     Eurasian Collared-Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)            

16.     Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles exustus)            

17.     Greater Coucal (Southern) (Centropus sinensis parroti) 

18.     Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)                           

19.     Gray-headed Swamphen (Porphyrio poliocephalus)       

20.     White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus)   

21.     Common Crane (Grus grus)                                                  

22.     Indian Thick-knee (Burhinus indicus)                                  

23.     Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)                  

24.     Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta)                                

25.     Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus)                            

26.     Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa)                                  

27.     Little Stint (Calidris minuta)                                                  

28.     Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis)                                  

29.     Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola)                                      

30.     Common Redshank (Tringa totanus)                                  

31.     Pallas's Gull (Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus)                               

32.     River Tern (Sterna aurantia)                                                 

33.     Painted Stork (Mycteria leucocephala)                              

34.     Little Cormorant (Microcarbo niger)                                  

35.     Indian Cormorant (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis)                  

36.     Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus)                  

37.     Dalmatian Pelican (Pelecanus crispus)                               

38.     Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea)                                                 

39.     Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea)                                           

40.     Intermediate Egret (Ardea intermedia)                             

41.     Little Egret (Egretta garzetta)                                              

42.     Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)                                                  

43.     Indian Pond-Heron (Ardeola grayii)                                    

44.     Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)                                          

45.     Black-headed Ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus)           

46.     Red-naped Ibis (Pseudibis papillosa)                                  

47.     Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia)                           

48.     Black-winged Kite (Elanus caeruleus)                                 

49.     Greater Spotted Eagle (Clanga clanga)                              

50.     Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Circus aeruginosus)                   

51.     Montagu's Harrier (Circus pygargus) – 7 individuals flying together!   

52.     Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis)                                 

53.     Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus)                               

54.     Bay-backed Shrike (Lanius vittatus)                                    

55.     Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach)                                      

56.     House Crow (Corvus splendens)                                          

57.     Greater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla)     

58.     Crested Lark (Galerida cristata)                                           

59.     Plain Prinia (Prinia inornata)                                                 

60.     Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)                                           

61.     Streak-throated Swallow (Petrochelidon fluvicola)        

62.     Red-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer)                              

63.     White-eared Bulbul (Pycnonotus leucotis)                        

64.     Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca)                                   

65.     Large Gray Babbler (Turdoides malcolmi)                         

66.     Rosy Starling (Pastor roseus)                                               

67.     Brahminy Starling (Sturnia pagodarum)                             

68.     Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis)                                 

69.     Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) – female

70.     Siberian Stonechat (Saxicola maurus)                                

71.     Desert Wheatear (Oenanthe deserti)                                 

72.     Purple Sunbird (Cinnyris asiaticus)                                      

73.     Baya Weaver (Ploceus philippinus)                                     

74.     Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola)                                    

75.     Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris)                                         

76.     Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus)                                        

77.     Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark (Eremopterix griseus)        

78.     Isabelline Wheatear (Oenanthe isabellina)                       

79.     Northern Pintail (Anas acuta)                                              

80.     Temminck's Stint (Calidris temminckii)                              

81.     Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia)                           

82.     Asian Openbill (Anastomus oscitans)                                 

83.     Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)                                   

84.     Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus)                                   

85.     Rufous-tailed Lark (Ammomanes phoenicura)                 

86.     Common Babbler (Turdoides caudata)