ALL CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL

As children, most of us would be familiar with the fairytale about the frog who magically turns into “prince charming” on being kissed by a princess. The very perception of the frog turning into a “handsome” prince, meant that we looked at frogs as ugly and slimy little creatures. Didn’t we?
Well, to some they would indeed seem ugly and slimy. But if we try and understand the role their play in our very lives and on our very survival, our perception of ugliness and beauty would change forever.

Amphibians have a great impact in sustaining biodiversity and ensuring that forest cover remains, monsoon showers occur in time and rivers do not run dry. It’s very simple. Frogs feed on insects and so keep their population under control. If frogs and toads are gone, it will lead to rise in insect population, which is their main food. These insects will then devour leaves destroying entire forests leading to reduced ground water precipitation. As a result, clouds will not form and thus without rains, rivers will run dry. Put simply, the disappearance of frogs will ultimately affect forests, rivers and consequently us humans as well. That’s how important frogs are to us. But sadly, their numbers are decreasing.

There are more than 4,700 species of frogs in the entire world. It will be of interest to learn that, historically, when species faced extinction, one species of amphibian would disappear every 250 years. Unfortunately, in the last 35 years alone, about 120 amphibian species, including frogs, toads and salamanders, have disappeared!!

My recent trip to forests of Amboli with Nature India was an eye-opening experience for me. Adesh’s extensive knowledge about every aspect of nature, coupled with the expertise of Saunak Pal in the field of herpetology made my trip a memorable and very enlightening one indeed.
Amboli is a quaint hill station nestled amidst lush foliage on the Sahyadri Mountain Range in the southern-most region of Maharashtra. Perched at a height of approx 700m above sea level, it has the distinction of being the wettest region in Maharashtra receiving about 7500 mm of rainfall annually. This tiny region abounds in unique flora and fauna. Especially rich in herpetofauna, wild flowers and birds, the star attractions for nature enthusiasts like me are the wonderful array of reptiles and amphibians found in the region.

Although the regular route to Amboli is via Sawantwadi which is only about 35 kms away, we were advised very wisely by Adesh to travel via Kolhapur which is thrice the distance. Adesh’s vast travel experience had prompted this decision. The Konkan Rail which connects Mumbai to Sawantwadi runs along a landslide prone area especially during the monsoons. Train cancellations and delays are commonplace at this time of the year. So to avoid any disappointment the marginally longer journey would ensure that we reached Amboli despite heavy rains and consequent rail disruptions.



The longer route wasn’t without its perks too. Along the way, near the small town of Aajara, we stopped to get a glimpse of a unique ground orchid – Long-tailed Habenaria (Habenaria longicorniculata) commonly known as Sheput Habe amri in Marathi. A terrestrial orchid with small white flowers, it is unique for its almost 6 inch long spur in which it stores nectar. It is interesting to note that most orchids have specific pollinators. In this case, only a certain species of hawk moth with equally long proboscis, aids in pollinating this orchid.
Orchids reproduce by cross-pollination with birds and insects carrying pollen from the stamen of one orchid to the pistil of another.  They use a variety of intricate strategies for attracting the many specific pollinators on which their survival depends. Consequently, the orchid and pollinator have evolved together. Orchids have evolved some of the most complicated pollination systems of all plants. Many orchids look like or smell like bees, which is what attracts bees to them. Other orchids, like one orchid species of South America attracts bees by a process called ‘pseudo-antagonism’. Parts of the orchid resemble an enemy insect which bees try to attack. During the assault pollen attaches itself to the attacking bee! The small wonders of nature!


We arrived in Amboli in time for lunch. Delectable Malwani cuisine awaited us at Hotel Satpurush. Fried fish, malwani chicken curry and a delicious vegetarian spread were served with much love. An unlimited supply of ‘solkadi’ completed the ever so scrumptious meal.
It had been raining incessantly since the time we arrived. The mist hung low in the air giving a mysterious feel to the surroundings. The silhouette of the nearby Shiva temple held me spell-bound. There was a slight nip in the air too. It was just divine! It was soon time for our first trail into the fabled forests of Amboli. Armed with leech-guard socks, torch-lights, ponchos and umbrellas, we set out into the forest.
The moist deciduous forests of Amboli are thick and dense. Very little sunlight seeps in through the dense foliage. It was misty. Leaves littered the floor of the forest creating an ideal habitat for numerous insects, amphibians and reptiles. Small puddles of water made by the steady rainfall provided frogs with nurseries to lay their eggs. Leeches thrived in the leaf litter. There was an orchestra being played out in the forest. The rhythmic tapping of the Bombay Bush frogs a.k.a typewriter frog set the tone for symphony. Amboli bush frogs, Malabar gliding frogs, bronze frogs and a band of toads and crickets lent the chorus. The sound of the rain drops maintained the tempo in the background.

The breeding season for most amphibians is during the monsoons and it is at this time that they are lustily vocal. The competition to attract a favourable suitor is fierce.
As we made our way through the forest, the incessant rain had made visibility difficult. It was cloudy and moist. Guiding us with their torch-lights, Mandar, Adesh and Saunak scanned the foliage in anticipation. An Amboli toad sat on a wet rocky surface.  It was so well camouflaged against the moss laden stone that it took us a while to actually see it. I little further, an indirana ( leaping frog) sat hidden in a crevice of a rock. A clump of eggs lay ahead of him.

This was just the beginning of an intriguing odyssey.

While Shaunak was sharing interesting information about toads and frogs, Abhijeet, a fellow participant, who was also scanning the jungle noticed what was to be the star attraction of the trip. The Malabar gliding frog. Bright leaf green in colour, this arboreal frog has red webs on its feet and eyes that bulge out of its little head. Almost toy-like, these frogs can blend in perfectly with the environment inspite of their vivid colours. Like most frogs, the Malabar gliding frogs rest in the foliage during the day and are active at night. Remaining mostly in the lower canopy, this species, unlike others, builds nests in trees. The nests are made of foam from body fluids on the surface of a leaf, whose location is selected in such a way that it is strategically positioned above puddles of water. This ensures that the tadpoles that develop from the fertilized eggs fall into the water where they eventually develop into adult frogs. Clever strategy is after all the key to survival.

In the moist forest, as all of us eagerly observed and photographed these pretty croakers, a sudden alert was sounded by Mandar. Unnoticed by all of us, a Malabar Pit Viper sat stealthily on a tree at immediate striking distance!! In fact it lay coiled on the very branch which many of us had taken the support of, to enter the foliage to see the gliding frogs! It was a close call.

Malabar Pit Vipers are venomous snakes that are most active at night. It is also during the monsoons that they become more active. This particular individual was lying low probably waiting in ambush to strike at one of the numerous Malabar Gliding frogs that its meal consists of. Our focus had now changed to this handsome predator.

Found in various shades of grey, azure green, brown and yellow, there is no common colour or pattern in Malabar Pit Vipers. This phenomenon of different colour morphs in a single species is known as polymorphism. Polymorphism could be a strategy used by certain species to confuse predators thus giving them a survival advantage. Indeed some clever strategy! We were lucky to see an individual in its orange morph too, the very next day.

Another intriguing experience was the encounter with a Tarantula spider. Tarantulas are well known to the western world. But most people in India are not aware of the presence of Tarantulas in this country. People find them creepy because of their large, hairy bodies and legs. But these spiders are harmless to humans (except for the extremely painful bite). Tarantulas do not use webs to ensnare their prey though they do make burrows to hide in.

As we returned to the hotel that evening drenched through in enthusiasm, Amboli toads jumped around on the road leading to the hotel. Some were in amplexus (the mating position of frogs and toads, in which the male clasps the female around the back), others just leaping around looking for mates.

There was a tapping sound in the background, as if someone was tapping at the keys of the good old typewriter! It was the Bombay Bush frog. Aptly christened typewriter frog, for its call that resembles the tapping of a typewriter, Saunak had spotted a tiny individual on the leaf of a nearby bush.

As amphibians and frogs are nocturnal creatures, observing them in the night was the appropriate thing to do. After a delectable Malwani dinner, we set out once again for the nearby Amboli Vanudyan. A dim glimmer of moonlight filtered through the thickets. The rhythmic tapping of the Bombay bush frogs and the high pitched song of the cicadas broke the silence of the night. A Deccan Banded Gecko scampered across the path. The poor fellow had lost his tail presumably in an attack or accident. A Lynx spider sat stealthily on a leaf. Suddenly, there was hushed excitement as someone spotted a stick insect as long as a foot ruler! In the guise of a twig, it was difficult to see the creature despite its huge size.

 Stick insects have a remarkable defence mechanism in the form of camouflage. They have the ability to resemble stems, twigs and leaves, and the bodies of some species are even covered in moss-like growths that supplement their disguise. Some species have the ability to change colour depending on their surroundings. In a further fascinating behavioural adaptation some stick insects make a rocking motion which mimics the movement of leaves or twigs swaying in the breeze! A grand design for survival!

The numerous Malabar gliding frogs, jumping restlessly all over the ‘udyan’, looked like delightful plastic toys scattered all over the place by a mischievous little child. They were literally all over – on the trees, on the rim of the well, on the moist ground, even inside the temple. The ‘ling’ dedicated to Lord Shiva was brimming with frog’s eggs. Tadpoles in various stages of development slithered around in the dampness. Delicate wild Balsam flowers popped out from the moss laden ground. Toads hopped around in search of mates. It was well past midnight when we left the udyan, but the drama being played out in the forest had just begun.
The forest was alive and bustling with activity.

The delectable breakfast of kanda-poha and simmering hot tea, served at Hemant Ogale’s turned out to be great fuel for the long and arduous day that lay ahead.

The route to Parikshit Point, our destination for the day, is a mildly strenuous hike through a dense, leech infested forest. The decomposing leaf litter that covers the forest floor creates an ideal habitat for leeches. Leeches thrive on the blood of mammals and they can instinctively sense their presence. Though leeches are not harmful to us humans, it will be rather pretentious on my part to say that they didn’t freak me out! The leech-guard socks, firmly secured right upto my knees, were to be my saviours of sorts. But despite the socks, I had four or five leeches on my body at the end of the day. One even managed to get upto my neck, literally! But I was luckier than a fellow participant, Ajay, who had atleast a dozen or more leeches creeping all over on the insides of his poncho :(  It was the Volini spray that we were armed with, that eventually came to his rescue.
A leech stuck to our body usually falls off if a pinch of salt is sprinkled on it. Volini acts in very much the same way and is more convenient than lugging along a packet of salt.

Along the way we had a glimpse of a host of intriguing creatures. A Pill millipede lay all coiled up like a ball, presumably threatened by our presence.  This species of millipede, when threatened, rolls into a tight ball. Bronze frogs, that usually remain closer to the ground near small puddles of water, leaped around playfully. A beautiful orange centipede swiftly wriggled past. An intriguing mushroom called ‘dead man’s finger’ looked phantom-like growing out from a crack in a rock.

 At the end of the long hike in the incessant rain through dense foliage, emerging onto the top of Parikshit Point, seemed as if we had emerged into paradise! Although it was overcast, a glimpse of the sky provided much relief. It was an amazing sight to behold! The entire expanse of the plateau was covered in lush green Topli Karvi shrubs. The visual was astounding. It seemed as if many green ‘toplis’ were placed overturned on the ground. The peculiarity of this shrub is the hemispherical tuft that is formed on the ground from its numerous stems. The shrub flowers only once in seven years. It was sheer bliss from the leech laden path we had just left behind.

It was on this plateau that we encountered the rare caecilian, the Ichthyophis davidii. Caecilians look like worms but are actually limbless amphibians. Very little is known about these astonishing creatures. Another spectacular sighting was the Pied-bellied Shieldtail. A non-venomous snake found all over the Western Ghats, it is slender and smooth and has a striking blue iridescence.











Satiated from the overwhelming experience, it was now our bellies that needed to be gratified.
As dusk fell, the drizzle continued. The last 2 days had seen periodical alternating between heavy and light showers. Mist was a constant. We headed for a short walk to a dilapidated old palace nearby. There is beautiful saying in hindi that speaks of the beauty of a palace being seen in its ruins. (Khandar batatien hai ki imaarat kitni khoobsoorat thi)  This couldn’t have been a better example. The moss laden dilapidated structure could have been nothing short of majestic. The cracked moist walls and ceilings, the crumbling staircases and the eroded floors seemed to reflect the lost glory.

All sorts of creatures now inhabited the old structure. A Horse-shoe Bat hung from the cob-webbed ceiling. A Malabar Whistling thrush found the palace a safe haven to make its nest. The croaking of the wrinkled frog echoed through the ruins. The mist, hanging low, added to the intrigue.

Thirsting for some more exploits in the alluring forests of Amboli, yet another night trail beckoned us. The usual drama was being played out in the forest. For the numerous toads, frogs, insects, skinks and geckos, it was life as usual. It was during this last trail that we had our most memorable sighting…. the sighting of the Malabar Pit viper in its orange morph. There couldn’t have been a better way of calling it a day…..or rather night!

Our last morning in enticing Amboli was not to be without drama. There was a light drizzle. As we walked along the road leading to Shirgaonkar Point, several shallow puddles of water lined the main road. The puddles were covered with over-grown blades of grass. At first they seemed to be usual puddles of rain water. Closer scrutiny of the puddles made our eyes pop out in disbelief!  A couple of pairs of huge bulging eyes seemed to be floating on the surface of the water! It was not long before we learnt that those eyes belonged huge Bull Frogs that were lounging in the shallow puddles as they lay there completely motionless.


An array of hoppers, an owl moth and a hawk moth basked in the occasional sunshine. An ootheca (egg case) of a wasp hung precariously from a bush. The droplets of rain on moss laden branches made sublime images. The marvels of nature’s architects could be seen in the giant webs that hung from moss laden tree trunks. Beautiful ferns sprung out of cracks in trees trunks. Caterpillars of all shapes and sizes lay waiting to morph into beautiful butterflies and moths. Nature was celebrating the festival of life.

And as I remembered the fairytale of the frog turning into the handsome prince, meanwhile Nature was the princess busy kissing ugliness away and magically turning everything into a thing of beauty.

Nivedita Kothare
(Amboli - Aug 2015)

That Invisible God

Man is the most insane species. He worships an invisible God and slaughters a visible nature…. without realizing that this nature that he slaughters, is this invisible God that he worships. 

Hubert Reeves’ words ring so true.

I had just returned from a short but satisfying trip to Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) with Nature India, in the last week of April when I read the absolutely distressing news about a tiger cub being run over and killed by a speeding vehicle on the outskirts of the Reserve near Chandrapur. It was just a couple of days ago that we had waited so anxiously for that ever so precious moment for the tigress and her cubs to give us a glimpse of her majestic self. But although the wait was in vain, there hadn’t been an iota of disappointment. The solace was in the very existence of the tigress and her cubs.

Often referred to as the “Jewel of Vidarbha”, Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) derives its name from the local deity “Taru”. It is home to the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger (Panthera tigris tigris) and is a veritable treasure trove of many other wild animals, birds, reptiles, insects and flora.

It was a sweltering afternoon when we reached Moharli. We were a group of 13 including Adesh and Mandar under whose direction we would be for the next 2 days.  The sun was scorching down upon us at what must have been atleast 41-42° C as we stepped out of the comfort of our air-conditioned vehicles to unload our bags and check into the hotel, the Hornbill Resort. Far from what comes to one’s mind when we hear the word “resort”, this was a modest single storey building with 6 AC rooms and basic but clean facilities. It was definitely not a place where one would expect the luxury of a cold towel!

But yes!! there it was!! To our very pleasant surprise, we were offered cold towels and a warm welcome!! Such a wonderful gesture, especially in a place like Tadoba where most “resorts” have only basic boarding facilities, was truly admirable.
After a simple but sumptuous lunch fondly prepared by a local village gent and a quick afternoon nap, we were off on our first safari into the jungle. The open hood-less jeeps would provide obstruction-less views of the pristine forest and its inhabitants. The 13 of us were accommodated in 3 jeeps which would take their individual routes once inside the forest. We were 4 – Mr.Bhatia, Sweedle, Mandar and myself. This grouping would remain for next two days. The very knowledgeable Dashrath, was to be our guide.

As my jeep entered the forest through the Moharli Gate, we encountered ancient stone pillars on either side of the road. During the days of the Maharajas, these pillars were used to light up the path everytime a Maharaja would pass that way. “Mashals” or torches would be lit on each pillar as the gentry would pass, leading them along the path. It seems there were pillars right through the forest upto the city. But today most of them have been lost to development and the handful of ones that were within the forest have survived as testimony of a regal past.

The breath of fresh air as we drove through the dense dry deciduous forest came as a dose of a rejuvenating magic potion! Thick bamboo groves that provide ideal camouflage for the tiger surrounded us. The desire to see the tiger was apparent in everyone’s gaze as we scanned the forest in anticipation. After all, who wouldn’t want to experience the sight of a wild tiger in his natural habitat? But the tiger was to elude us for now.

As we drove further into the forest there was a subtle movement in the thickets. All of us were alert at the prospect of spotting a wild animal. I stood up in the open jeep excitedly. Our guide had spotted a sloth bear!

Oblivious of our presence, the beautiful beast was wandering around in search of food. We waited with baited breath, our anxious eyes following his movement in the thickets until he made an appearance in the open. Oh what a sight! The bear continued sniffing around on the floor of the forest for a few minutes. Soon, our excitement had alerted the animal. He gently lifted his head up and gave us cool glance, before walking past our jeep, across the road and then making a dash for the jungle!

The forest was alive with the calls of birds, langurs and deer. It was music to my ears. Wild Jamun trees, the Ain tree with its ‘crocodile’ bark, the Mahua tree in all its splendour, the majestic Arjuna, Palash, Amaltas, Red Silk cotton, all in full bloom were a sight to behold. Yellow throated sparrows flitted about as we drove beneath the canopy of these magnificent trees.

The Indian Roller showed his ‘true colours’ as he flew off his perch on seeing us. (Indian Rollers at first seem to be dull brown coloured birds when they are perched. But the moment they take flight, they display their glistening blue, white and green shades). The langurs and herds of spotted deer looked quizzingly at us as they hung around with their families and friends.

The Crested Serpent eagle perched atop the ‘Ain’ tree made an interesting picture. Its piercing yellow eyes standing out in stark contrast against its brown body, the crocodile-skin-like bark of the Ain adding to the mystique.

A little further a Spotted owlet was calling. Not so easy to spot though! So great was its camouflage that although we knew which direction the call was coming from, and it wasn’t too far either, it took us a while to see it. As we drove into the dusk, grey jungle fowl crossed our path, making for beautiful back-lit pictures.

It was an end to a very satisfying day in the jungle. Some refreshing luxury awaited us at the resort. Yes, the cold towels! They were such a respite from the scorching heat! A pat on the back to the ever so considerate Manish Verma for this luxury. Dinner was followed by a re-cap of the day’s sightings by various participants and we were off to bed early as the next day would begin before dawn.

As my alarm rang out at 4.15 the next morning, I sprang out of bed to take a quick shower and get ready to make way for my room-mate Rasika, a beautiful young girl, all of 17. We were set for another exciting day in the jungle. Being served tea at 5 in the morning was another luxury we were lucky to have. Usually resorts around wildlife sanctuaries, especially in a place like Tadoba, do not offer any services at that hour in the morning. The entry to the park begins at 6 in the morning and guests are expected to have their breakfast only after 11 when they return from the safari. We were lucky to have packed breakfast too…. a sumptuous omlette sandwich coupled with the joy of eating it in the middle of the forest!

The rays of light from the rising sun filtered through the canopy of the jungle.  As we drove leisurely into the park, we encountered to two men on foot. They were the local tribal people who earned their livelihood working in the reserve forest, creating fire lines, digging water holes, etc. We had a casual chat with them, enquiring anxiously about their safety, after which they left. A few minutes later, we noticed them stop in their path about fifty meters away, standing there motionless. It was only on looking closely that we realized that they had spotted a leopard and were giving him his right of way. Our hearts pounding with excitement, we sped in the direction of the men. The cool cat had just walked elegantly past. We were lucky to have a fleeting glimpse of the leopard as it disappeared into the thickets as mysteriously as it had appeared. But it was only minutes later that we realized that in our excitement to catch a glimpse of one big cat, we had missed out on the second leopard! It was in the exact opposite direction in which we were looking and had probably got a good sighting of our backsides! The men on foot had seen both and were trying their best to alert us, but in vain!

The excitement was at its peak! As we drove along we came across a stream alongside a shady grove. The driver of our safari brought the jeep to a sudden halt. A big cat again? No, this time it wasn’t an animal but an elegant bird! Perched low on a bark just above the stream was a huge owl! The Brown Fish Owl! Completely unperturbed by our excitement, the mystical creature just sat there, his piercing gaze holding us captive. As much as I wanted to pick up my camera and take the prized picture, I also wanted to see this beauty with my bare eyes. The choice has always been my dilemma. But this time luck favoured me. With a bit of help from Adesh, I took my pictures AND got to see this regal bird to my heart’s content.

The flowers of Ukshi (calicopterus floribunda) were in full bloom. As we were admiring the beautiful white flowers, Adesh pointed out to an Arjuna tree which had several scratches on its bark. They were the territorial markings made by the sloth bear. A pair of barking deer was at a water hole nearby. On seeing our jeep, the incredibly timid deer made a dash for the woods. A sambar pair stood alert as we clicked away with our cameras. The sun was now becoming stronger. As we reached the junction of Jamunzora and Pandharpaoni, Sweedle suggested we stop for breakfast. No time was wasted in accepting her suggestion! We were soon savouring the most delicious omlette sandwich ever, right there in the middle of the forest! What a life!

Our stomachs full, we continued our drive towards Pandharpaoni. A little Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, regardless of our presence, was busy clambering up and down a slim bark hunting for food. There was hole in the bark which could have been his nest. Not far from here, we noticed a huge bee hive high on a tree. It was no surprise then when we saw an Oriental Honey Buzzard sitting right across. Honey buzzards feed on bees and wasps and it is interesting how nature has evolved scale-like feathers around the eyes and forehead which give it protection from the stings of the wasps and bees it preys upon.

The sun was now getting stronger. It was a little past10. The jeeps must leave the forest by 11 sharp. The drivers are penalized if they are late and so we began our return drive. There were thick bamboo groves on either side.

The vehicle in front of us had kicked up a cloud of dust. And through the dust I saw an ST bus approaching us. I was surprised to know that the bus regularly plies right through the reserve forest to ferry folk from a village inside the forest. The inhabitants of the village will soon be relocated outside the forest after which the ST bus would stop plying. As we made our way down the dusty path, we noticed a jeep waiting in the middle, its occupants in pin drop silence.

The guide of the jeep informed us that they had just seen a tiger disappear into the bamboo groves. They were waiting in the hope of it coming out. The excitement had suddenly returned! We too stopped our jeep and began scouring the bamboo thickets for any sign of the predator. In a situation like this, most of us begin hallucinating about the tiger. Every branch, every stone, everything seems to look like a tiger!! Many anxious moments later, Adesh, scanning the jungle with my binoculars, gave out a soft shriek. His razor sharp eyes had spotted the big cat. As I peered through the binoculars, I saw the majestic animal sitting there. It was truly a huge cat, sitting behind a clump of bamboo, face towards us. His face slowly became visible to me. Soon I could see his feet and noticed that he was about to get up. The excitement continued as we hoped he would come out in the open and oblige us with a glimpse of his majestic self. But he wished otherwise. I followed him with my binocs as he stood up and began walking deeper into the forest. The sight was a feast to my eyes! Even with such bright colours, it is fascinating how they blend in with their surroundings! The majestic animal soon disappeared into the forest. It was indeed a wonderful end to our morning safari. We managed to leave the gate at the stroke of 11, but not before getting a wonderful glimpse of a sharp-eyed Shikra on our way out.

Back at the resort, the cold towels offered great respite from the sweltering summer heat.

A wonderful thing about going on nature trips with Nature India is that all participants are treated as family. We eat together, have conversations, poke fun at each other…. There is a lot of camaraderie amongst participants. Also the post lunch and dinner discussions are very informative as Adesh and Mandar share amazing facts, stories and their experiences.

Our afternoon safari began with the sighting of the Red Spurfowl. As the fowl scampered into the glades, an excited Adesh was trying hard to draw our attention to something he had sighted on the other side of the road. From his gestures, we guessed it was something rarely seen. Sure enough, the little creature made a dash across the road offering us a wonderful view of himself. It was the Tree Shrew! Despite its name, the tree shrew is not particularly arboreal but spends much of its time on the ground or clambering about on rocky terrain in search of insects and seeds. It was this characteristic that was on display right before our eyes.

Onwards towards the Telia dam a Pied Kingfisher hovered over the water as we approached. A solitary Black Ibis, many whistling ducks, egrets, herons, jacanas and cormorants were taking in the evening sun in the dam waters. A huge marsh crocodile was basking at the edge of the water. We spent a good amount of time soaking in the incredible view of deer with their reflection in the dam waters against the setting sun and the birds readying to roost.

As dusk fell it was time for us to return to the gate. The forest was like an open air orchestra, playing out a symphony of the most incredible sounds. The cantankerous call of the golden oriole, jungle babblers raising a hue and cry, parakeets zipping noisily above the canopy, the distant call of the jungle owlet and laughing dove, magpie robins singing out sweet melodies, an iora’s low decibel rhythm, flame-backed woodpeckers darting noisily back to their roosts…… as I sat there in the back seat of the jeep mesmerized by the music that was being played out, a subtle movement in the dry leaves at the edge of the road snapped me out of my stupor. It was a Black Naped Hare who was foraging through the dry leaves oblivious of our presence. So camouflaged was he that it took us a while to first see and later identify him.

And as if this camouflage was not enough, we soon stumbled upon a Savannah Nightjar a little further down. Not very easy to sight, Nightjars are crepuscular birds whose cryptic coloured plumage resembles dry leaves or the bark of a tree. They often sit along a bark rather than across it, or on the ground which helps conceal them during the day. Our driver had brought the jeep to almost a hand-shake away when we realized that there was indeed a bird sitting on the floor of the jungle amongst the dry leaves.

The Sirkeer Malkoha gave us a parting shot just before we left the gate at the designated time of 6 pm.

Dinner was followed by the usual round of discussion and it was early to bed as usual. My dreams were of the glorious wilderness :)

After a stimulating cup of warm tea at 5 in the morning, everyone was raring to go for that last safari of the trip. A long queue of gypsies was ahead of us as we awaited our turn itching to enter the jungle quickly.

A pair of Indian Gaur were foraging in the dry leaves as we entered. One of them looked sheepishly up at us before returning to his activity. An Orange Headed Ground Thrush scurried inside the bamboo glades.

As we peered inside straining our eyes to catch a glimpse, we were alerted by the call of the Indian Pitta. Lo and behold! Perched up on a distant tree was this charming little gem also called Navrang! The Indian Pitta is a migratory bird which breeds in north and central India and migrates down south through peninsular India upto Sri Lanka. It is a breeding migrant in Tadoba where there are confirmed records of breeding Pittas. It also passes through SGNP in Mumbai where we often see him at the onset of the monsoon before he leaves for his return journey back north.  This was my first sighting of this season.

As the day advanced dappled sunlight filtered through the vegetation painting a beautiful picture. A lone Grey Jungle Fowl, unmindful of our presence, was roaming around in the shrubs. His vibrant plumage stood out against the sunlight. It was a magical moment.

As we passed through Waghdoh, the sound of the cicadas, which was till now coming from a distance, slowly seemed to come closer and soon grew to a crescendo. It was almost deafening. Suddenly we were surrounded by thousands of noisy cicadas. And then the cicada rain! When many cicadas congregate on warm days, they feed on the tree fluids and often ‘urinate’ while doing so. However, this ‘pee’ does not stink or stain. In fact, it feels like rain drops! What mystique the forest holds! No sooner we were out of the cicada rain than we saw the floor of the forest carpeted with the beautiful off-white flowers of the Mahua. We reached for some of them to savour their sweet taste. The Mahua tree is one of India’s most versatile trees. While the flowers and fruits are sweet to taste and are used to make syrups and jams, the fermented flowers produce an intoxicating drink which is a favourite of locals and animals alike. Langurs and bears have often been seen walking with a slight swagger after ingesting rotting flowers! The bark produces oil which has medicinal value and is also used as biodiesel.

The Mahua flowers seemed have aroused our hunger! The warm packets of ‘poha’ neatly packed away in the seat pockets could no longer be ignored. So there we were enjoying the delicious ‘poha’ under the canopy of the Mahua, Teak, Arjun, Palash and so many more trees. Our appetite whetted, we continued with the safari. A Ruddy Mongoose walked hurriedly across the road. Our jeep rolled slowly along. A Golden Oriole called out from a distance and soon showed up.

As we gazed with delight at the vibrant bird, a movement in the grass beneath caught our attention. And even before we could say the word ‘rat’ a huge Rat Snake slithered nimbly past us and disappeared into his hole at the edge of the road. It was another heart-stopping moment for us! As we waited at a toilet facility nearby several Fruit Bats hung upside down on a Ficus tree. After observing the bats for a few minutes, we were soon on our way. As we scanned the forest, we came across a huge bare tree. High up on one of the branches, was perched a majestic Crested Hawk Eagle. We soon noticed that there was a nest and on closer scrutiny with our binocs, we saw the chicks too! There were two of them safely nestled away from any possible danger of predators. Even as the eagle was perched high up on the tree, a little distance away a Greater Racket Tailed Drongo had perched himself on a very low branch. His crest standing out crisply on his glistening black body, he was a sight to behold!



A quick look at the watch indicated that we should be now making our way back in order to get to the gate before the deadline of 11. We were still quite deep inside the jungle when another gypsy carrying some excited tourists crossed us. Their beaming smiles spoke more than the words which followed! They had just seen a tigress with her cubs! Pointing out the direction in which the tigress had gone they wished us luck and drove away. Our driver tried his best to reach the spot in time before the tigress disappeared. Our hearts pounding with excitement, we reached the spot only to find 10-11 other gypsies waiting there with anxious occupants. But the tigress was not in sight. They were all waiting with the hope that she would come out sooner or later. But alas. Our thirty minute wait was in vain. I would admit that there was some amount of disappointment at not seeing the tiger. After all, the sight of a tiger in the wild is priceless. But there was also the solace of the very existence of the tigress and her cubs in that forest. Alas! My excitement was to turn into anguish a few days later when the news of the death of one of the cubs was published. Our trip had been so fruitful in terms of all the sightings we had, thanks to Adesh’s and Mandar’s alertness. This news was so distressing. Not in my wildest dream had I thought that such a wonderful trip would end on such a sad note.

Ecologically speaking, the loss of tigers from their natural habitat would result in irreversible changes in natural ecosystems. Being at the top of the food pyramid, the decline of large predators leads to abundance of herbivores such as deer, which in turn has repercussions on tree regeneration and seed dispersal. Such effects reverberate through the food-web, causing long-term changes in natural flora and fauna, eventually leading to destruction of the entire natural ecosystem. An ecosystem that we humans too are part of.

Revisiting Hubert Reeves’ words, ‘Man worships an invisible God and slaughters a visible nature, without realizing that this nature that he slaughters, is this invisible God that he worships’, we must understand that it is this invisible God, this nature, that is in reality the very reason for our existence. It is because of Her that we exist. And if we continue to slaughter this invisible God, we are threatening are very own existence.

Nivedita Kotharé

April 2015

A Fairytale Sojourn to Arunachal

Suraj ki pehali kiran se, aashaa kaa savera jaage

chandaa ki kiran se dhul kar, ghanghor andhera bhaage.

Jahan dur najar daud aaye, aazad gagan leharaye

Jahan rang birange panchhee, aasha kaa sandesa laye…..

I wonder if Kishore Kumar visited Arunachal before he wrote these soulful lyrics!

So true do these words ring for this veritable paradise on earth.  

My visit to Arunachal this year was, literally, the feeling of being cradled into her bosom by a mother, just as she would her beloved child. The sun was the mother, the forests her bosom.

I had long desired to visit the northeast of India. But my desire had till now, remained a distant dream….. until Adesh and Mandar announced their Birding trip to Eaglenest/Nameri. It is a simple truth that sometimes the most ordinary things could be made extraordinary, simply by doing them with the right people..... So this was it! My dreams during the next few nights were of Yuhinas, Fulvettas, Barwings and Liochichlas!

Our first halt, after a long flight from Mumbai to Guwahati, was at the most unlikely places on a traveller’s itinerary…..the Guwahati Dumping Ground! But we were no ordinary travellers. We were a motley group of avid bird watchers with a single resolve…..to venture into any extreme to catch a glimpse of our feathered friends.

As it turned out, a stinky, rotting mire for some, became paradise for us! A mélange of black kites, egrets, cormorants, wagtails and sparrows greeted us as we entered the dump yard. And then, the very reason for venturing into this dump, the Greater Adjutant Stork, in all its magnificent glory…..! It is said that more than 20% of the world’s population is found here on the Guwahati Dumping Ground. These Storks, a globally threatened species, breed in the tall trees on the periphery of the dump yard and scavenge for food on the garbage. For me, this was the first of many ‘lifers’ that were to follow. And on a tree just outside the dump, the Eurasian Tree Sparrow was the next! (Just for the uninitiated, a ‘lifer’ in a birder’s parlance means the very first sighting of a particular species in his/her life.)

Our birders’ appetite whetted, we were soon on our way towards Nameri Tiger Reserve. After a sumptuous lunch enroute, I slept the rest of the journey, like a well-fed baby!

Spread over an area of approximately 200 Sq. Kms., the Nameri Tiger Reserve lies in the foothills of Eastern Himalayas, on the banks of Nameri River. It is on the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. Nameri is probably the only known place in India for the endangered White Winged Wood Duck.

Our day began with a ride across the Jia Bhoroli River in a small wooden boat, the only way one can access the Nameri Tiger Reserve. The hope of spotting the elusive White Winged Wood Duck was apparent in our gaze. True to its reputation, this one was to elude us. But the treat that followed, more than compensated for the non-sighting of the elusive duck. The sight of the Peregrine Falcon perched high on a bare tree, the acrobatics of the Chestnut Headed Bee-eaters, the majestic Great Hornbill, the regal Sultan Tit, the Maroon Oriole, the Ruddy Shelducks and Fulvous Whistling Ducks, the Osprey and Pied Kingfishers ….what more could an ardent birder ask for? Two more ‘lifers’ for me!

Since Nameri was just a stopover to break the long journey from Guwahati to Eaglenest WLS, we left immediately after the morning birding session, only to return to Nameri once again on our way back to Guwahati Airport. It was during this second stopover that a few more of my ‘lifers’ were to follow – the Ibisbill, Common Merganser and Great Thick-knee. It is indeed interesting how birds use their instincts for survival. We were fortunate to have witnessed the dexterity of the Ibisbill. Normally, it would be challenging to see an Ibisbill on a river bed, its natural habitat, but for its long red beak which is a complete give-away. So to hide itself from probable predators, it sticks its head down into its own wings so that its beak is hidden and now resembles any other stone on the riverbed! Clever indeed!

As we sailed along in our rubber dingy Small Pratincoles, Pied Kingfishers, River Terns and a solitary Black Stork made a great feast for our eyes. Closer to the camp, the cacophony of the Asian Pied and Chestnut Tailed Starlings greeted us as they flitted playfully on the trees. Ah yes!! And how can I forget the Capped Langur! As all of us leaped out of the jeep like monkeys and scrambled to get a picture, our cameras clicking away at the sight of the primate, that monkey sat there, dignified and regal. His piercing stare will remain in my memory forever.

With Nameri proving to be a great appetizer, the main course was still to follow!

We began our onward journey into Eaglenest via Bhalukpong, which is in Assam on the border with Arunachal, and where Inner Line Permits are checked before entry into Arunachal. Being a sensitive area with territorial issues with bordering China, anyone who wishes to enter Arunachal is obliged to obtain a permit from the Govt. of India. Adesh’s local co-ordinator, the very charming, Mr. Indi Glow had left no stone unturned is ensuring our smooth entry and comfortable stay for the days to follow.

As we left Bhalukpong, the long winding road took us along the Kameng River with the Pakke Tiger Reserve and Sessa Orchid Sanctuary on either side of the road. The Tippi Nalla which drains the eastern part of the sanctuary joins the Kameng River and eventually flows down to meet the mighty Brahmaputra. With the plains far behind us, we were now headed for Tenga Valley, from where a ‘kachcha’ single road would take us up to our first camp site, Lama Camp. Tenga town also doubles up as an important Indian army check post. After a quick stopover at the town for tea and a delightful introduction with Mr.Indi Glow himself, we were soon on our way to Lama Camp. We were scheduled to pick up our local birding expert Khandu enroute at a settlement called Ramalingam. On reaching Ramalingam, we saw no signs of Khandu, and no one had a definite clue about his whereabouts. I could see some amount of anxiety on Adesh’s face. We waited for a few minutes and decided to leave without him. We reached Lama Camp by dusk only to see Khandu waiting calmly for us oblivious of the anxiety he had put us through!

At a height of about 2400 mts, Lama Camp is perched up on a picturesque location surrounded by broad leaved forests and bamboo groves. An occasional Magnolia Tree, provides a sudden burst of white amongst the lush greenery. The camp is run by the local Bugun tribe, headed by Mr.Indi Glow. In addition to about 10-11 2-man tents equipped with comfortable beds, blankets, sleeping bags and solar lamps, the camp has 2 dining areas and clean and efficient toilet blocks. Thanks to the efforts of a gentleman named Dr. Ramana Athreya, the Buguns benefit from the continued existence of the Eaglenest Sanctuary. They run the birdwatching camps, generating income for themselves and protect the sanctuary from poaching and deforestation. Dr. Athreya has not only discovered a new bird species, Bugun Liochichla, which he so graciously named after the local tribe, but has single-handedly made Eaglenest into one of the hottest birding areas of the country thereby ensuring the livelihood and well-being of the tribal communities of the area. Kudos are in order for Dr.Athreya! Many would agree with me if I said that the world needs more people like him.

It was freezing in Lama Camp. Our bags had not yet been unloaded from the vehicles. Much to the chagrin of our driver Bobby, I scrambled to get my hands on the woollens from my bag. I could have worn ALL that I had! As tents were being allotted to all of us, we waited in the dining room as the fire place provided a welcome relief. Soon dinner was served and all of us, fatigued from the long journey had retired into our tents even before 9 pm. Varsha was to be my tent-mate over the next 5 days. I was freezing even after wearing woollen socks and hand gloves and burying myself under extra layers of blankets. Sunrise came as a great relief! 

After a steaming cup of tea, made so lovingly by the ever-smiling staff, we were off for some birding near the camp area. Khandu, who had evaded us the earlier day, was all set to lead us into the pristine forest. And so began our Eaglenest birding sojourn. The first to be sighted were the Beautiful Sibia. The excitement that followed was immense. There were atleast a dozen or more of them flitting up and down a gigantic moss-laden tree. Just as all our ardent photographers were having a field day with the Sibias, a Rufous-bellied Woodpecker made his appearance and the attention shifted to this brilliant little bird, fondly nick-named ‘tamatar head’ by Adesh and Mandar. By the end of the day, we had managed to see the Striated and Bhutan Laughing Thrushes, Green Tailed Sunbirds, Green Backed Tits, Great Barbet, Darjeeling Woodpecker, some Minivets, Ioras, Rock Thrushes and Leafbirds amongst other brilliant species.

For any birder coming to Eaglenest, a glimpse of the secretive Bugun Liochichla is the ultimate desire. Our motley group was no different. We were going to be in Lama Camp only for this one day as we were to leave for Bompu Camp the next morning. And since this species has been seen only in the area around Lama Camp, it was important that we begin our efforts at flushing it out immediately. And so the search began. Adesh led us through the winding road. Khandu bent and peeped into every thicket. He stood on the edge of the road tentatively and stared patiently down into the forest. Mandar’s eyes were alert for any sign of movement in the bushes. Everyone waited in anticipation. The search however would end in vain. But as they say, sometimes the effort is more satisfying than the reward.

As the next day dawned right before my eyes, how I wished to just lie there in the cozy warmth of my sleeping bag, lazing around with a hot cup of tea, gazing at the sun rising from the distant hills….  but that pleasure was not to be mine, atleast not for today! Adesh had sounded the bugle! “Chalo, tea is ready! And we have to leave immediately!!” And so here we were, all set, armed with our ammunition as it were! Binocs, cameras and all! The journey to Bompu Camp was going to take us all day. Equipped with packed breakfast and lunch and lots of drinking water, we set out soon after tea.

The route to Bompu from Lama is via Eaglenest Pass which is the highest point at an elevation of 2800mts. After that the route starts descending towards Sunderview at 2465mts and Bompu at 1945 mts and continuing onto Khellong, Kamengbari and Telamara down to 100 mts. But our destination was to be Bompu where we were to stay the next 3 nights. We would later go down to Sessni at 1250 mts on the other side of Bompu towards Khellong for day of birding. Sessni literally means Stinging Nettle which is found in abundance in this part of the sanctuary. We had to tread carefully. The journey was one of the most picturesque ones I have made in my life. The landscape changed with the varying altitudes and so did the vegetation. The degraded forests surrounding Lama Camp transformed into verdant, dense broad-leaved jungle. As we got closer to the Eaglenest Pass, icy wind stung our faces. There were some Bamboo groves in this area. My palms were frozen stiff and I had no sensation on my nose. A sign board put up by the Forest Department announced that we were now at Eaglenest Pass. Just before approaching the aptly name Sunderview area, we took a breather at a place called Chakoo. Adesh informed us that Chakoo at 2400 mts was the remotest polling booth in India, with a total electorate of just three people! A bureaucrat would make his way here with a chair and a table and wait for these three to turn up and exercise their franchise!

Our journey was punctuated by several birding stops. Most of the time, our drivers, Bobby and Basu would drop us at a point and then drive up a little later to pick us up some distance further. We reached Bompu Camp late that evening, exhausted but satiated with the sighting of amazing birds during the day. Lopsang, the ever-smiling Manager of the camp, alongwith his band of boys had served up a hot and delicious dinner and had lit a bonfire which seemed to exude the very warmth that I saw on Lopsang’s smiling face. Soon we were snoring in the comfort of our blankets! Varsha, my tent-mate can vouch for that!

Over the next few days, birding in the Bompu-Sessni area paid rich dividends. Khandu would conjure up various bird calls with his lips. Among them was the call of the Collared Owlet, which Adesh and Mandar had christened “the Anthem of Eaglenest”. As it turned out, the call of this bird excited many other species such as Yuhina’s, Babblers and Warblers resulting in us being treated to glimpses of these glorious beauties every time Khandu whistled the call!

As we walked along, we had several thrilling moments. A White-collared Blackbird hopped across our path in full view, oblivious of our presence. The Golden Babbler gave us a fleeting dekko, the restless Rufous-vented Yuhinas hopped playfully on the branches turning from side to side and the solitary Rufous headed Parrotbill was a lucky sighting for me as I managed to capture him on my camera just before he disappeared into the thicket. We soon reached an area which we were to later nickname “the studio”! A largish opening in the otherwise dense forest which was teeming with birds provided us a single location, with an unrestricted view of numerous winged wonders. A flock of Grey-chinned Minivets posed for us atop the tall trees. Green-tailed Sunbirds flitted restlessly around. A Black-faced Warbler gave us surprised look as did the Yellow bellied Fantail prettily fanning out its tail with its every twist. Striated Bulbuls huddled together on a single branch, Orange-bellied Leafbirds posed alongside the flowers on the Silk-cotton trees. The glorious Sultan Tit was my ultimate dream-come-true! The Streaked Spider-hunter hovered itinerantly around. I had never felt more gratified. A feeling that cannot be described, but must be experienced….!

It was almost towards the end of the day, on our return to Bompu Camp on the last day, Adesh announced that we would try and look for the secretive Blyth’s Tragopan. It is extremely difficult to spot this pheasant as it prefers the undergrowth of evergreen and rhododendron forests and other dark, quiet places. Due to degradation of forests and hunting by locals, its population is on the decline, and this area happened to be one of the few places where it is locally common. As I excitedly readied myself for one more ‘lifer’, a sudden melancholy wailing sound scared the daylights out of me! As it turned out, it was the call of the Tragopan! I let out a sigh of relief. Hushed excitement followed. Lest we get noticed by the bird before we notice the bird, we tried to blend in with the forest while scanning it for any signs of movement. Moments later, another wailing call!! Several desperate attempts to spot the elusive pheasant however, proved futile. But just as we started to leave, a Mountain Imperial Pigeon gave a magnificent sighting! That was one more lifer for me!

Despite having missed sighting many birds including the famed Bugun Liochichla, our adventure ended like a fairytale. After all, where in the world would one be served an elaborate banquet right in the middle of the lush, pristine forest? Yes, Lopsang and his band of boys had taken the trouble to drive up the rough road into the forest where we were birding, with tables, chairs and even a pretty table-cloth! It was a banquet fit for a King! Thank you Lopsang, Vicky, OK and all you boys. It is people like you who make ordinary things seem so special!

And so ended my sojourn to this veritable paradise on earth!

Where the first rays of the sun bring a dawn of hope

Where the moonlight chases away the darkness….

It is little wonder then why poets run to nature for inspiration.

Nivedita Kothare

March 2014