Adesh
Shivkar had just announced Nature India’s new trip – “Birding in the Sky
Islands across the Palghat Gap” – the name itself sounded so spectacular that
it could pique anyone’s interest! Islands in the sky? My imagination soared as I
pictured myself flying to one of those little islands in the sky surrounded by
a sea of clouds!
Before
long I had taken off on the flight (not of my imagination!) but the early
morning Air India flight to Coimbatore. And my wild imagination took a nose
dive, when I learnt that one couldn’t ‘fly’ to the “sky islands” as they rise
from the hills!!
In
a metaphorical sense, ‘island’ refers to anything being isolated and surrounded
by something else. "Sky Islands" in India refer to isolated,
high-altitude tropical montane forests particularly Shola forests in the
Western Ghats. The word ‘shola’ originates from the Dravidian word solai, which means ‘forest grove’. Shola forests are unique, tropical montane evergreen forests
found in disjunct patches within rolling grasslands at high elevations
(1400-2700m) in the Western Ghats of South India. They are characterized by
stunted trees and high biodiversity, acting as crucial water sponges for major
rivers and harbouring many endemic species, despite facing threats from habitat
loss. They rise from the slopes of the Nilgiris, Palani and Annamalai Hills and
are separated by lower elevation grasslands, creating unique ecosystems with
many endemic species, much like oceanic islands but in the sky. The isolation
fosters unique evolutionary paths, making them a vital ecological habitat.
We
were a motley group of nine from different parts of India, including Adesh
Shivkar, the founder of Nature India and one of India’s most knowledgeable and
humble ornithologists. Hema Subramanium, Yasmin Khan, Adesh and myself were
from Mumbai, Gayatri Pimple from Pune, Elumalai R from Chennai, Suresh VC and
Jamal Mohmed came in from Calicut and Deepa K from Bangalore. We were met at
the Coimbatore airport by Jana (Janarthanan) and Arvind, our guide and driver
respectively. The Nilgiris beckoned us. With our luggage safely packed into the
back of the bus, we were on our way into the hills.
Another interesting feature in the
Western Ghats is the Palghat Gap (or Palakkad Gap). It is a geographical gap in
the mountain range, about 30 to 40 kms wide, creating a natural corridor
between the Nilgiri Hills and Annamalai Hills, connecting the states of Kerala
and Tamil Nadu. Because of the Palghat Gap unique
species of flora and fauna have evolved on either side making it ecologically
crucial and a critical hotspot for conservation.
We were headed South of the Palghat Gap
to a place called Valparai, a serene hill station nestled in the Annamalai
hills at an altitude of 3,474 feet above sea level. It shares its borders with
the Annamalai Tiger Reserve, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Eravikulam National
Park and Vazhachal forest division.
The route from Coimbatore to Valparai took
us through the town of Pollachi. We took a short break at a local roadside
eatery. Adesh ordered some tea and then brought out his goody bag of tasty
knick-knacks that he had carried with him from Mumbai for all of us. As we
savoured some biscuits and tea, one local lungi-clad gent walked in with a big transparent
plastic bag of what looked like large (6 inch) pancakes. I am one who loves to
try out local food wherever I travel, so instinctively, my eyes followed the
bag in the lungi-clad gent’s hand. And the eyes of my fellow travellers followed
mine! On Nature India trips, as a policy, food becomes an integral part of the
trip and holds equal importance as birding itself. As most participants were
not new to Nature India policies (Adesh makes sure about that!), the man at the
counter was soon surrounded by nine curious bird-watchers wanting to know the
identity of the pancakes. We learnt that they were ‘varkey’, crispy and flaky
baked biscuits made from sweetened flour and semolina with their origins in the
Nilgiri district of Tamil Nadu. Needless to say, a dozen or so varkeys were
polished off there and then, and another dozen packed and carried for the
journey ahead. The fun had just begun.
The plains of Pollachi are connected to Valparai by a winding mountainous road in the Anamalai Hills. As we began the ascent, the road took us through a total of 40 hairpin bends. The bends began at Aliyar check point area of the Annamalai Tiger Reserve. Each bend was numbered and named after a rare bird or animal found in the region and a board displaying the number of the bend and a picture of that animal or bird is displayed at each bend. As Arvind, our driver, negotiated the hairpin bends with fluid ease, he had to put his foot on the brakes at the sight of a family of three Nilgiri Tahr. There they were, on the road-side barrier, unperturbed by our enthusiasm. A handsome male sat calmly beside his lady who stood attentively looking down into the valley below, as their kid lay sprawled on the road close to its mother. Nilgiri Tahr, endemic to this part of the Western Ghats, is the only mountain ungulate in southern India. It inhabits the open montane grassland habitats and prefers open terrain, cliffs and grass-covered hills, at elevations from 1200 to 2600 m. Once found along the entire stretch of Western Ghats, it is now found only in small fragmented pockets. A large part of its population has been wiped out from its historical range and existing populations are under severe stress due to habitat loss and hunting. I considered myself truly blessed to have seen this monarch of the mountains in my lifetime.
After
a scenic meander up the winding mountain path, we reached the Relax Real
Homestay in Iyerpadi, which was to be our really relaxing home over the next
two days. In a country obsessed with statues of political leaders, the tiny
town of Iyerpadi too had its own – a statue of former Chief Minister of Tamil
Nadu M G Ramachandran (MGR) with his trademark dark glasses, of course.
As we settled into our rooms, a
scrumptious lunch awaited us. The earthy aroma of the rustic dishes teased our
senses as we gathered around the dining table after freshening up after the journey.
A delicious spread of sambar, rasam, some vegetables, buttermilk, rice and some
crispy papadam was laid out on the table waiting to be devoured!! The hosts
though had over-estimated our appetite for rice while under-estimating our
appetite for papadam!! The estimates were duly corrected the very next day.
Our first birding session of the trip
began that afternoon on the Valparai-Athirapalli Road going towards the
Sholayar Dam Park. The distance of roughly 20 kms would normally take about 40
minutes. But for us it was not the destination, but the journey that mattered.
Our journey would take us around 3 hours as we stopped at spots we thought
would yield good sightings, getting off the bus to look for our avian friends, then
back onto the bus in search of another point enroute. This was to be our
routine over the next four days.
The
place we were in is globally known for the Lion-tailed Macaque, an endemic and
endangered primate species of the Western Ghats. This is the only place in the
world that one can see the Lion-tailed
Macaque, so all of us were waiting to see one in eager anticipation. But what
we hadn’t anticipated was that we would see one so soon. We were in for a pleasant surprise when,
within minutes of leaving from our homestay, one Lion-tailed macaque came and
sat on the road-side railing staring at us curiously. We looked different from
the local folk that he was used to seeing!
Of the 17 species of primates found in
the Indian subcontinent, the Lion-tailed Macaque is perhaps the most unique
monkey. Although they are named “lion-tailed”, they also sport a lion-like
mane, so I wondered why they were not named “lion-faced macaques” instead! Although
they may look fierce, Wanderoos, as they are often referred to, are gentle and
shy. They are mainly fruit-eating monkeys and live in troops. Traditionally
they are a strictly arboreal species inhabiting the high canopies, but
fragmentation of their habitat has led to a reduction in the native
fruit-bearing trees they depend on, forcing them to look for alternative food
sources on the ground, including garbage, or, in some cases, to raid homes. In
a shrinking rainforest, such as in Valparai, Lion-tailed macaques are in danger
of extinction.
Moving
on, two Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters did a balancing act on a gently swaying
branch. A spotted dove daintily walked on the ground bobbing its head back and
forth. A few pictures taken, and we were soon on our way, driving along the
winding road with ever-green forests on either side. Half an hour into the
drive and we had seen our second endemic monkey. An enthusiastic Jana, our
guide, had spotted a family of 4-5 Nilgiri Langurs perched high up in the fig trees.
Their glossy black fur contrasting with a distinctive orangey-golden mane
against the leafy green surrounding made a pretty picture. Preferring a
high-canopy life, their diet consists of tender foliage, ripe fruits and even
flowers and seeds. Sadly, like many other species of wild animals, the Nilgiri
Langur too is classified as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List. I consider myself
fortunate to get glimpses of these beautiful animals and birds before we lose
them to our selfish ‘development’ agenda.
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| Malabar Imperial Pigeon - Ducula cuprea |
The evening light was soon fading as we
reached the Sholayar Dam Park. There was a chill in the air…. and then there
were roadside tea shops serving smoking hot tea. How could one resist that
cuppa which feels like a warm hug in a mug? 😊As
we sipped on our steaming cups of chai, Adesh pointed to Indian swiftlets flying
overhead. One more lifer for me!! A couple of Brahminy Kites glided
effortlessly overhead. On the drive back to our homestay, we were all ears to
the interesting information and stories Adesh shared with us, as he always does 😊
The usual round of revision of the day’s sighting followed a sumptuous dinner. This time the papadam estimates were right! The night in the hills was biting cold and the warm blankets in our rooms beckoned us.
The next morning I woke up at the crack
of dawn to the mellifluous song of a whistling school boy. Wait! It’s not what
you’re thinking! I wasn’t enamoured by any random school boy, not at my age! It
was the Malabar Whistling Thrush. A bird with the most melodious whistle. He’s
not called the ‘whistling school boy’ for no reason! We had decided to start a bit
late that day as Jana had suggested, due to the early morning mist. But the
bird-watcher’s soul in all of us got the better of Jana’s suggestion and I soon
realised that it was not just I who had woken up to the song of the whistling
school boy!
As
I waited on the verandah outside my room, I was mesmerised by the picturesque
vistas of the distant mountains and the lush green forests nestled in their
shadow. The air was crisp and cold. Though I had a warm pull-over on, another jacket
would be needed, I thought. A last-minute sprint back into my room for my
jacket….. I was now ready to brave the
cold.
A glistening black Ashy Drongo sipped nectar from the
bright orange flower of the Indian Coral tree. Asian Brown Flycatchers and Pied
Bushchats basked in the morning sun.
While waiting for Arvind to bring the bus, I was pleasantly surprised to see a jeep driving around announcing awareness messages about human-wildlife conflicts in the area. Over the past several centuries, human activities have chipped away at the unique ecosystems of the Nilgiris. Both grasslands and sholas have been razed for plantations that grow tea, coffee, cardamom and other crops. Due to this habitat fragmentation, wild animals like Gaur, elephants, and even leopards venture into the estates seeking food and water and the workers, often migrants, lack awareness. The local forest department has taken the initiative and focuses on educating tea estate workers (especially migrants) and locals about coexisting with the wild animals.
Back into the bus, we wound our way back into the hills from the town of Valparai. A Malabar Flowerpecker peeped through the thickets refusing to come out. We got out from the bus at a place called Kamaraj Nagar. The vistas of lush green tea gardens contrasting against the cerulean sky were breathtaking.
As we walked along the road enjoying the profusion
of beauty surrounding us, Adesh was animatedly calling us, pointing to a
Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker scampering up and down a tree in the thickets,
pecking purposefully at the bark. Watching a woodpecker navigate a tree is like
observing a master carpenter at work, blending intense physical labour with
acrobatic grace. Woodpeckers have specialised feet, called zygodactyl, with two
toes facing forward and two backward, to provide a firm grip on bark. And when
you watch them peck at speeds of up to 13 to 16 times per second you wonder how
they don’t suffer concussions. Well, their skulls are like small and spongy
helmets that absorb the shock and their tongue acts as a double helmet,
wrapping around the skull to act as a shock absorber, protecting the brain
during forceful pecking. The excitement grew as the woodpecker came out in the
open allowing our photographers some great pictures. And the icing on the cake
was another individual close by! A pair of woodpeckers in one frame! Our attention was diverted once more when
Adesh pointed to a Dusky Striped Squirrel, another endemic to this region.
The morning chill had mellowed a bit. It
was time to shed some layers of clothing.
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| Malabar Flameback - Chrysocolaptes socialis |
While walking along the boundary wall of
a tea estate, Adesh noticed a Black Eagle gliding low over the tea shrubs
within the estate. As we stood at the gate gawking in awe at the bird of prey,
the man at the gate, seeing our enthusiasm, was kind enough to allow us into
the estate. The eagle’s slow graceful flight allowed us to see it’s bright
yellow bill and feet that contrasted with its deep black feathers. Black Eagles
have broad wings with distinct “fingers” (widely splayed primary feathers at
their wingtips), as well as a long tail that is fan-shaped when open and
slightly wedge-shaped when closed. Adesh explained the identifying features. Thanking
the kind man, we left the estate. The bus had arrived for all of us to hop in.
As we enjoyed the views of the panoramic landscape from the bus, it was another sight that elicited a sudden collective shriek of excitement from all of us. From the moving bus, we had spotted some Lion-tailed macaques sitting on the tin roof of a small shed. After the sight of the lone macaque the day earlier, this was the feast we were waiting for. As we quickly got off the bus, we realised there was an entire troop – about 10-15 of them. It was sad to see the traditionally arboreal animals scavenging on garbage left on the roadside. We stared in wonder as they leaped from the roof top onto the roads, walking calmly into the adjacent forest on seeing us. They were now in their natural habitat – up in the trees. There were several adults – a few males and many females – along with several young ones and babies. The youngsters played mischievously amongst themselves, with some little ones hanging off the tails of their older siblings; others engrossed in play-wrestling matches. A few pairs were busy grooming one another. And all along, a symphony of gentle baby-like coos could be heard as we watched them in awe. Adesh then told us something interesting. Local NGOs like Nature Conservation Foundation (NCF) had constructed canopy bridges at locations where Lion-tailed macaques and other arboreal animals like the Nilgiri langur and Indian giant squirrel were frequently observed crossing the road and where tree connectivity was weak or absent. They had also employed “watchers” who monitor their movements to ensure that vehicles don’t speed on these routes. These watchers stand by the roadsides, stopping speeding vehicles, holding placards saying “Go Slow – macaques crossing” and to educate tourists and prevent them from feeding lion-tailed macaques. Coincidentally, one of the watchers was there at the time and it was indeed nice to meet him.
When I think of the amount of effort we
need to put into saving our wild animals, David Attenborough’s words ring true
– “We often talk of saving the planet, but the truth is that we must do these
things to save ourselves. With or without us, the wild will return.”
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| Malabar Whistling Thrush - Myophonus horsfieldii |
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| Rufous Babbler - Argya subrufa |
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| Palani Laughingthrush - Montecincla fairbanki |
The setting sun had bathed the sky in hues of orange and red. We were soon negotiating the sharp hairpin bends of the Pollachi-Valparai road to get back to our homestay in time for dinner. The next day was going to be a long one. We would do one last session in the south of the Palaghat Gap and then we were headed for Kotagiri to the north which was a long 150 km drive.
The air was crisp and cold as we checked
out early that morning. We thanked Suresh and Sakthivel, the staff at Relax
Real Homestay, for their warm hospitality and delicious food. (and for
complying promptly with our demands for more papadams 😊)
As usual, we would bird along the way
wherever the opportunity arose. The journey once again took us on the hairpin
bends as we descended into the Palghat Gap from the sky island of Valparai.
While passing between the 37th and 38th bend, Adesh instinctively
knew that the area looked ideal for some good bird life. We get off to scan the
tall foliage. Sure enough, Adesh’s keen eyes had spotted a Velvet-fronted
Nuthatch “scampering up and down the bark of a tree like a mouse”, in Dr. Salim
Ali’s words. Till today, no one has been able to match his description of birds
even closely. As we watched the beauty in awe, our attention was diverted as a
Speckled Piculet, a diminutive woodpecker, came and perched on an Indian Coral
Tree. This was one of the first birds I had seen in the Great Himalayan
National Park way back in 2000. Those days, fancy cameras were not so common. A
pair of heavy Poro prism 10x50 Olympus binoculars was my only equipment.
Soon there was a profusion of bird
activity in the tall trees. A Paradise flycatcher, Orange minivets, Ashy
drongos, Indian White-eyes, a Rusty-tailed flycatcher, a pair of Nilgiri
flycatchers, an Asian fairy Bluebird, Brown-cheeked Fulvettas – it was a mixed
hunting flock. In the wild different species of birds often move, hunt and feed
together. These alliances offer several advantages. There’s safety in numbers;
more eyes mean a better chance of spotting predators like hawks or snakes.
Additionally, flocking birds can find food more efficiently, especially when
some species are particularly skilled at uncovering hidden insects or fruits.
One of my favourite birds, the Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike was also part of
the mixed flock. Is it a flycatcher or a shrike? I wondered. Turns out, a
flycatcher-shrike is a unique bird that acts like both, but taxonomically it's
now generally placed with the Vangidae family related to woodshrikes, rather
than true shrikes or typical flycatchers, despite its name and insect-catching
(flycatcher-like) behaviour. While they do catch insects mid-air like flycatchers,
they have slightly hooked bills, linking them to the shrike-like group.
As we drove along, another stop near
hairpin bend 32 yielded a White-bellied Sholakili or White-bellied blue robin.
Extremely shy, it is usually found in the shady understory of the Shola
forests. With a range limited only to the Shola forests, we had seen yet
another “Near Threatened” species.
As we drove further north, our eyes fell
on two road-side tea shops. As Adesh, sitting in the front of the bus, turned
around to say something, we had anticipated what his suggestion would be. It
was a collective outburst! We stop for breakfast! Krishna Tea Shop offered
fresh dosas and bread-omelette. There was Maggi noodles too, but that was no
match for the local delicacies on offer. As some of us ordered bread-omelette,
others opted for dosa. The dosas were the first to be served. Jamal, Hema,
Deepa and Elu had already attacked them.
As Suresh, Gayatri, Yasmin and I waited for our bread-omelette, the
sight of the freshly made dosas was irresistible. Why not taste some, we
thought. By the time the bread-omelette arrived we had devoured countless
number of dosas. Adesh, who was watching a Grey wagtail on the road, had missed
the assault and later, on learning the number of dosas that were devoured, he
was speechless! (for once😊) But eventually he too savoured some fluffy ones with his bread-omelette. As a wonderful gesture, Adesh suggested we have tea
from the neighbouring shop, as Krishna Tea Shop had already received enough
business from us (considering the number of dosas devoured!)
We were back on the bus with our tummies full and once again Adesh spotted something from the moving bus. This time it wasn’t a bird but a rare flower that grows on the ground. The Magenta Ghost Flower (Christisonia tubulosa) is a rare endemic parasitic plant, which was rediscovered in 2003, after 90 years in the Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary in the Anamalais, near Pollachi. (source: Flowersofindia.net)
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| Jerdon’s Bushlark -Plocealauda affinis |
It
was late evening by the time we reached Kotagiri, and it was freezing cold. Our
rooms at the Thillai Garden Cottages, which was to be our home over the next
two days, overlooked a forest. Unable to resist an attempt at sighting an owl
or some nocturnal bird, we lined up on the verandah as we waited for dinner.
But we had no such luck.
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| Indian Blackbird - Turdus simillimus |
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| Nilgiri Chilappan - Montecincla cachinnans |
Recent research found that southern Indian laughingthrushes
were not closely related to the traditional Garrulax genus of laughingthrushes
found in the Himalayas. They were therefore moved to a new, distinct genus
called Montecincla. As part of this reclassification, scientists and
ornithologists adopted "Chilappan" a name used by local communities
in Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The term "Chilappan" is now applied to all
four species within the new Montecincla genus (Nilgiri, Banasura, Palani, and
Ashambu), reflecting their local identity rather than the previously used, more
generic "laughingthrush" names. Jai Ho!! The Nilgiri Pipit gave us a fleeting
peek as he zipped in and out of his cryptic background matching its streaked
plumage.
The lemon tea thereafter came to our defence.
And for some of us, one cup was not enough!
It was now time to head to Ooty. There was a slight drizzle as we walked from the bus to the popular Botanical Garden which is home to many resident and migratory birds. In the middle of the noisy, touristy town, the quietude of the park is a haven for our feathered friends, who don’t seem to mind the tourists enjoying the park, and probably are aware that these tourists are oblivious of their presence. We were glad the drizzle had stopped and were hoping to see some migrants and endemics here. One such bird had eluded us till now – the endemic Black and Orange Flycatcher. And he remained elusive till the end. Someone has wisely said, “accept disappointment but never lose hope.” We kept our hopes alive.
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| Kashmir Flycatcher - Ficedula subrubra |
Covering
an area of about 55 acres, The Government Botanical Garden in Udhagamandalam
(anglicised to Ooty) has around a thousand species of both, exotic and
indigenous plants, shrubs, ferns, trees, herbal and bonsai plants. In the
centre of the garden there is a fossilized tree trunk estimated to be 20
million years old! A total of 60 bird species have been recorded in the garden. The garden is also home to Near Threatened species like the
Black-and-Orange and Nilgiri Flycatcher and Vulnerable species like Nilgiri
Pipit.
As
in every Nature India outing, eating places are also chosen as meticulously as
birding places. Ooty’s famous Junior Kuppanna was to be our lunch stop for the
day. Known for their delectable Kongu cuisine, their legacy chart displayed in
the restaurant said that the restaurant was started way back in 1960 by Thiru
Kuppusamy with his wife Thirumati Rukmini Amma who were both exceptional cooks.
Kuppusamy began his culinary journey as a table boy at a hotel near Erode
railway station where former Tamil icons such as K. Kamaraj, MGR, NTR, Shivaji
Ganesan, Jayalalitha etc. became a fan of his cooking. Finger-licking Kongu
dishes were devoured within minutes. I wondered which bird had come and laid an
egg on Adesh’s biryani 😊
A
brief visit to a local chocolate factory and museum was followed by our evening
birding session at SIM’s Park, Coonoor. This is an unusual park-cum-botanical
garden that was developed around the natural contours of the land more than 150
years ago. It has native trees, shrubs and creepers as well as many unusual
species of plants that have been brought in from a variety of places around the
world. Some of the trees are ancient, the oldest one, a species of Eucalyptus,
dates back to 1869 and another Glochidion (Cheese Tree) species has been around
since 1895. The silent guardians of nature looked like sentinels of strength.
I wondered how many stories must be written into their gnarled barks over the centuries!
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| Brown-Breasted Flycatcher - Muscicapa muttui |
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| Blue-capped Rock Thrush - Monticola cinclorhyncha |
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| Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher - Culicicapa ceylonensis |
Before
we called it a day, we were treated to some lovely flycatchers –
Brown-breasted, Grey-headed Canary, Tickell’s Blue, Asian Brown, White-spotted
Fantail, and a Blue-headed Rock thrush and Pied Wagtail.
On
our last day, we woke up to heavy unseasonal showers. It didn’t look like the
rain would let up. As per the plan, we were to check out with bag and baggage, do
a birding session at SIM’s Park that morning after which we would head back to
the plains for another afternoon session and then onward to Coimbatore for our
return flight/train back home. Adesh and Jana had a quick round of discussion
about the next plan of action and it was decided that we should go to the Park
anyway and see what luck had in store for us. But rain had played spoilsport. Nevertheless, the
weather hadn’t dampened our spirits. It was already that time of the morning
that we usually break our night long fast. The shops were just about opening in
the sleepy town of Coonoor. We drove up to the first restaurant we found open
and broke our fast!
The
rain had forced us to call off our morning session at SIM’s Park. Jana suggested we
head straight for the plains as there was no prediction of rain there. We could
bird there instead. So off we were to the plains.
Yasmin
and Hema had extended their trip for another two days and had booked themselves
into PSY 3-star hotel in Mettupalayam. As we waited for them to drop their bags
off into their rooms before joining us for the last birding session of the trip,
a flock of gregarious Yellow-billed Babblers were having a noisy rendezvous in
the bushes nearby.
For our birding session, Jana, in consultation with Adesh suggested the nearby Karamadai area, along the road leading to the Arulmigu Bettathamman Temple. It was a beautiful terrain, rocky in some areas and forested in others, and could yield some interesting species. An undistinguished looking Paddyfield pipit walked tall among the short grass in the open bare ground before us.
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| Marshall's Iora - Aegithina nigrolutea |
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| White-browed Bulbul - Pycnonotus luteolus |
The
afternoon sun was getting stronger and we had to make our way back for our
respective return journeys home. The fast that we had broken in Coonoor, had
now disappeared into the energy we had consumed climbing uphill in search of
our avian friends. The Ilai Restaurant
on the Mettupalayam road served us delicious authentic South Indian food which
was relished down to the last morsel.
Yet
another memorable trip with Nature India had come to end. It was wonderful to
have a knowledgeable guide like Jana, and a driver like Arvind, who expertly
manoeuvered our bus safely along sharp hairpin bends and narrow hillside roads. And
my blog can’t be complete without a mention of Adesh. I consider him one of the
most humble and knowledgeable ornithologists of our generation, patiently
sharing his knowledge with anyone who wants to learn. I regard him as my guide
and mentor. And how can I end without mentioning Mandar Khadilkar one of the
two pillars of Nature India? Though you
were physically in Latpanchar, you were with us in spirit Mandar!
