Birding in the Emerald Isles of India

11th to 18th December 2018

(Day 1 –  Arrival and Chidiya Tapu)

When one talks of visiting the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, the first things that come to mind are pristine beaches, azure skies and white sands. And the things to do there would obviously be diving or surfing or simply lazing on the sandy beaches with a book and a can of beer for the inclined.

But for a birdwatcher like me, the thrill of visiting these remote islands is difficult to describe.

So when the opportunity arose with Nature India announcing their first ever birding trip to the archipelago, I was in no two minds. It was to be a trip of a lifetime!

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands consist of two groups of islands at the south-eastern edge of the Bay of Bengal. The bulk of the 300 odd Andaman Islands called the North, Middle and South Andaman, forms one land mass known as the Great Andamans. Little Andaman lies 120 kms south. Barely 10 percent of the islands are inhabited. Pristine tropical rain forests cloak the hilly terrain. Alongwith primary growth of evergreen forests, the South Andaman forests have a profuse growth of epiphytic vegetation, mostly ferns and orchids. The Middle Andamans harbour mostly moist deciduous forests. North Andaman is characterised by the wet evergreen type, with plenty of woody climbers. 

The meandering, sandy beaches are fringed with coconut palms. The islands have a fragile ecosystem. 

Despite the profuse vegetation however, very few mammals can be seen here. While Wild boar and Spotted Deer are introduced species, Palm Civet can be seen in the wild. The marine mammals include the Dugong, Dolphin and Sperm Whales. Some of the smaller mammals found here are the Andaman Spiny Shrew, Nicobar Tree Shrew. Bats form a large chunk of mammals found here. There are about 260 species of birds. Centuries of isolation, and a tendency for speciation of island populations has resulted in the development of as many as 20-25 endemic species of birds and many sub-species. 

What excited me was this uniqueness and the prospect of seeing bird species that have evolved as a result of geographic, physiological, anatomical, or behavioural factors and the fact that they don’t exist anywhere else in the world.  I was looking forward to the probability of ticking off atleast 20-30 lifers. (In birding parlance, a lifer is a bird seen for the first time in one’s life)

The islands are geographically isolated and inhabited by some of the most primitive and reclusive tribes of the world. Not preferring to keep any contact with others the Onges, Jarawas and Sentinalese, who have Negroid features, live in secluded parts of the islands. Of these, the Sentinalese are the only ones who vigourously reject any contact with the civilised world. The Shompen tribe have Mongloid features and are restricted to the Nicobar Islands.

We were fortunate to get a glimpse of a group of 6-8 reclusive Onges when they disembarked from the ship that took us from Port Blair to Little Andaman. However, photographing or even talking to these tribals is strictly prohibited and one can be imprisoned if found guilty.  Having the support of the government, they make rare appearances like this one, to collect ration and other necessities provided by the authorities.

The Islands were annexed by the British in the 19th Century and then used to dump Indian convicts sentenced to life imprisonment. Later the infamous Cellular Jail was built in Port Blair. It remains mute testimony to the barbaric atrocities meted out to it’s inmates. 

So here I was, in the remote Andamans, with a motley group of 10 eager birders and the ever so discerning Adesh Shivkar and Mandar Khadilkar as our mentors. Having known Adesh for the past 16-17 years or so, my respect for him as a responsible and extremely knowledgeable birder has grown manifold. An enthusiastic and informed local guide, Vikram Shil was to be our birding guide for the next 8 days.

I, alongwith my best buddy Anjali Kelkar, flew into Port Blair on a direct flight from Mumbai on 11^th December 2018. A flock of rare Glossy Swiftlets greeted us at the entrance of the airport. Also known as Plume-toed Swiftlet, its name pertains to a tuft of small feathers on the hallux, the rear facing toe that seems like a plume. At a glance Swifts and Swallows look much alike. However they are not related at all. Both are graceful fliers. Swifts have longer and slimmer wings and relatively shorter bodies. Swifts fly higher in the air as they hunt; but swallows pursue insects closer to the ground or water. If the bird is perched on a power line or branch, that’s a clear giveaway: Only swallows have the wherewithal to sit upright. Swifts are just stage-five clingers.

My first lifer of the trip! What better start could one ask for! 

The unearthly hour of our flight (it was at 4 o’clock in the morning) made me fancy a little snooze on reaching the hotel. Alas! That was not to be as we had arrived well before check-in time! However, no time was lost thereafter, after a sumptuous breakfast that was offered in the intervening time, in quickly checking into our allotted rooms and promptly curling up for a catnap. Post lunch, an exciting birding session was to follow.

Chidiya Tapu was to be our first destination. Popular among birders, the trail starts at the shore of Chidiya Tapu beach and moves up passing through dense forests leading upto Munda Pahad. 

One of the first species to be spotted was the endemic Andaman Bulbul. My second lifer on the very first day! 

Andaman Bulbul

A majestic White Bellied Sea Eagle was soon seen soaring in the clear blue skies. It was a sight to behold. A few more individuals were seen much to our delight! 

White Bellied Sea Eagle

As we were busy watching the beauties, I could see Adesh was rather in a flip as he peered through his binocs trying  to focus on some birds perched fairly high and obscured by fresh green leaves. Not one to take chances at mis-identifying, Vikram, Mandar and he briefly conferred and then concluded that these were the very rare Daurian Starlings! The third lifer on day one!

White Breasted Kingfisher

Red-breasted Parakeet

For any ardent birder, even common species, seen en number of times, stir up excitement each time! And so did the Common and White Throated Kingfisher. The Asian Koel though didn’t elicit any such emotion. A Collared Kingfisher sat proudly on a rock. The ubiquitous Rock pigeons were omnipresent as were House Crows and Common Mynas. As we walked the stretch of the forest Red Breasted Parakeets and some screeching Alexandrine parakeets perched on the higher canopies. The endemic Long Tailed Parakeets nibbled among the fruiting trees. My list of lifers was growing fast! 

Long Tailed Parakeet

Oh! to walk in the pristine forest among towering Padauk and Thitpok trees standing tall like sentinels, wind rustling through their boughs, I could hear them whisper sweet nothings into my ears! I was in a trance!

Soon I was jolted out of my reverie by an animated Adesh, who was pointing out a Brown-backed Needletail that sallied against the cerulean sky. Soon a Chestnut-headed Bee-eater and Vernal Hanging Parrot were sighted. The excitement continued as Vikram pointed out a Freckle Breasted Woodpecker propped against the side of a tree trunk scampering up and down and pecking purposefully. 

Freckle Breasted Woodpecker

Woodpeckers peck on tree trunks for various purposes. One of them is to uncover any insects or larvae living under the bark. They also drill holes in dead or dying trees in which to nest. These cavities are then used by other species as well like nuthatches, flycatchers or even small owls. Woodpeckers also indulge in “drumming” to declare their territories or to seek mates.

A fluttering movement in the thickets got the photographers in our group on their toes. It was the Fairy Bluebird. This one would definitely qualify as a star attraction!

Fairy Bluebird

Green Imperial Pigeons sat atop a ficus tree. A few Red Collared Doves and a Brown Shrike were soon sighted. Then came the Scarlet Minivets. It’s always a joy to watch the vibrant red males and the vivid yellow females. An Olive-backed Sunbird flitted across swiftly denying any of us its coveted photo.

Brown Shrike

As we walked along, Vikram pointed out the endemic Andaman Shama who called melodiously from the thickets as we peered to catch a glimpse.

Soon we had left the dense woods and were walking along the shore where we saw a host of waders including some Egrets, a Pacific Reef Egret and a Pacific Golden Plover.

Dusk falls pretty early in the Andamans. By 5.30 – 6 pm it’s already dark. Vikram suggested we try for some owls before heading back to the hotel.  It was pitch dark at about 6.30 pm. We all had our torches handy but birding etiquette demands we keep them off unless absolutely necessary. Most owl species are nocturnal. There are some however, who are diurnal and others who are crepuscular and are active during dusk and dawn. There are about 250 species of owls in the world. They live on every continent except icy Antarctica. Owls usually have one particular roosting place. Vikram was familiar with the spots frequented by owls.

We followed him like eager school children and crowded around him with bated breath. Our wait was not to be for too long. Soon enough a call was heard from the woods. Vikram’s trained eyes had spotted one bird. Since the torch light would disturb the bird, it was decided that only Vikram would put the spot light on the bird for a very short while so that we could all get a good sighting. Ready with binocs in hand and camera settings in place, we were ready for the mystical bird. And lo and behold! It revealed itself! 

It was later identified as a sub-species of Oriental Scops Owl (Walden’s) which is restricted to the Andamans. Owls are intriguing birds and capture the curiosity of many a birder. One more endemic sub-species on my list!

There was some more drama to follow. Vikram informed us that the Hume’s Hawk Owl also frequents this area so we should be on the look out. My heart was pounding with excitement. We scoured the trees for any signs. Periodically, Adesh, Mandar or Vikram would shine a torch light beam into the trees in anticipation of sighting the bird. No luck. We were now walking along fields on the periphery of the forest when Vikram stopped abruptly in his tracks. He had spotted the bird! This time it was out there in the open perched upon a shoe which was kept as a make-shift scarecrow! The bird looked curiously at us as we took in the magnificent sight giving us enough time to watch it and photograph it. “Khatarnak!” Mandar had given his signature verdict.

Oriental Scops Owl (Walden's)

Hume's Hawk Owl

It was time to call it a day! A rather fruitful day having sighted 38 species on the first day itself.

Day 2 (Shoal Bay and Sippighat)

Day breaks very early in the Andamans. For effective bird watching, it is essential to start early. The reason being that early in the morning the birds need to feed as they have been without food from the previous evening. One of the most active feeding times for birds is early morning as the sun rises and warms up insects, making it easier for insectivorous birds to forage. The chances of spotting birds therefore are more and they can be spotted pretty easily. Birds are also more vocal during this time making birding by ear much easier.  Late evening is similarly an active time for feeding birds as they store energy for the night. So in order to ensure a glimpse of our feathered friends, my alarm was set for 3.30 am. for the next 7 days. Vikram would promptly reach our hotel at 4.30 am each day, with Kishore and Clement our ever so keen drivers.

Today we were heading to Shoal Bay. Situated in the South Andaman about 57 kms from Port Blair, it is a well-known spot for birding. The forests of the Andamans are infested with leeches and mosquitoes. We were however, prepared for the misery, with leech guard socks pulled right up to our knees and loads of mosquito repellent smeared on our skin and some Volini Spray handy just in case a stray leech manages to creep up onto our shoes.  

Brown Shrike (Phillipine)

To reach Shoal Bay we drove to the Chatham Wharf where we drove our vehicles into the launch to reach Bamboo Flat Jetty. It was another 30 minute drive from here. As the rising sun painted the sky in deep hues or orange and blue, we sighted a Brown Shrike among the bushes. This one though seemed slightly different. Its head was much whiter. It was identified as the Phillipine (Brown) Shrike (Lanius cristasus lucionensis). The regal White Bellied Sea-eagles seemed to follow us wherever we went. As we were passing a marshy area, a Striated Heron sat gingerly among the reeds. The Bambooflat reeds, one of the many water bodies formed after the waters in the 2004 Tsunami gushed inland and remained there never to dry up, hosted a flock of egrets, Great, Little, Intermediate and Cattle, a Grey Heron, a Yellow Bittern and a Cinnamon Bittern. The familiar call of the Clamorous Reed Warbler alerted us to the reeds, where an Oriental Reed Warbler too shared space.  

As we moved along, the delightful Fairy Bluebird showed up and gave us a magnificent photo-op. A White Breasted Kingfisher sat perched on a stump keeping a keen eye in the water below. As we entered the wooded area we spotted some movement in the canopy. Our first glimpse of yet another endemic, the Andaman Woodpecker. Soon we came across a dump on which the Andaman Drongo was flitting around scavenging for food. A Greater Racket Tailed Drongo moved vigilantly in the thickets. The forest was well wooded with meandering streams of water cutting through the vegetation melodiously flowing over smooth pebbles and small rocks.

We encountered a few Betel Nut plantations with the harvested nuts spread out for drying. As we walked along, once in a while there would be a quick anxious glance at ones feet for any stray leeches. Volini would then come in handy and the poor creature would meet with instant demise.

But nothing can deter an ardent birder, not the least a tiny leech! So along we trudged. The leeches were soon forgotten when Mandar leapt in excitement at the sight of a Black Baza. 

Black Baza

The black beauty gave us a good glimpse before flying off into the thickets. A Chestnut Headed Bee-eater and Brown Coucal were ticked off for the day. A flock of Longtailed Parakeet alongside Vernal Hanging Parrots were busy on a fruiting tree. Glossy Swiftlets flitted around. 

The White Breasted Woodswallows perched sweetly on stumps and wires giving us views from all angles.

White Breasted Woodswallow

White Breasted Woodswallow

 Green Imperial Pigeons perched atop the tall trees. Red Collared Doves sat gingerly on swaying palm fronds. Black Naped Orioles sat preening high on the upper canopies of a tall fruiting tree. The frenzy, however, began on spotting the Ashy Minivet which is a rare sighting in this part of the world. They were seen alongside a flock of Scarlet and Small Minivets. As usual, the Oriental Magpie Robin was a delight to watch as was its cousin the melodious Andaman Shama. 

White Headed Starlings

A flock of pretty White Headed Starlings graced us with their presence. A Common Hill Myna sat on the higher canopies and Common Mynas hung around too. As we headed back to the wharf, House sparrows and Olive-backed sunbirds quietly went around hunting for food.

As we headed back to the wharf, House sparrows and Olive-backed sunbirds quietly went around hunting for food. It was rewarding birding session and now we looked forward to a sumptuous lunch back at the hotel.

The evening session began a bit late. We were given the luxury of having some free time after lunch to catch up on some rest, as the following night would be spent on the 8 hour boat journey to Little Andamans.

Sunda Teal was the target species of the evening. These dabbling ducks had made a water body near Sippighat their home. We drove straight up to the spot where Vikram had previously sighted the birds. At first the place yielded several Grey Headed Swamphen and Common Moorhen. 

Grey Headed Swamphen

Common Moorhen

A couple of Cotton Pygmy Goose floated around idly. A yellow Bittern emerged from the reeds providing a certain thrill to our motley group that only a birder would decipher. A similar thrill was provided by a Watercock nearby. An elegant Pheasant Tailed Jacana strutted its stuff. A Grey Heron stuck his long neck out through the grasses in the distance. The thrill was intensified with the sight if a Pin Tailed Snipe. An interesting trivia must be shared here. All of us have heard the word "sniper" in the context of military exercises. The verb "to snipe" originated in the 1770s among soldiers in British India in reference to shooting snipes, which was considered an extremely challenging game bird for hunters. Snipes are known to fly at great speeds and often in zig-zag trajectory making it difficult to shoot down.

There were about 15-20 Lesser Whistling Ducks too floating about leisurely. As Adesh peered relentlessly through his binocs for a probable Sunda amongst the Whistling Teals, Vikram animatedly ran towards the far right of the pond. He had spotted 4-5 individuals. They floated around unhurriedly, periodically dunking their heads into the water for food and oftentimes bending their necks backwards to preen their feathers. They looked calm as they drifted on the surface of the tranquil water. They had given us an eyeful!

Sunda Teal

It was an end to a satisfying two sessions. But the day had not ended for us. Tonight we were to embark on a different adventure. We were headed to Little Andaman which lies about 120 kms south of Port Blair, an 8 hour journey in the high seas. This was my first time on a ship for that long and the apprehension of the churning in my stomach was more than the actual churning of a rough and choppy sea. We were soon on our way to the wharf to board our cruise liner Coral Queen! My apprehension was laid to rest as we entered the air-conditioned lower deck where clean four-bed cabins neatly lined the space. I was happy to spend the journey lying horizontal on my allotted berth without any churning in my tummy!

(Day 3 –  Arrival in Little Andaman and Hut Bay)

I woke up to the cantankerous announcement of the ship’s captain that we had arrived in Little Andaman at the scheduled time. As we disembarked awkwardly lugging our suitcases up the almost vertical stairs of the vessel, a group of reclusive Onge tribesmen, women and children moved lithely towards a waiting pickup truck. One of the indigenous tribes of the island, they are said to be the mildest, most timid, and inoffensive people who are one with the forest which is their home. All their needs are fulfilled by the forest. Centuries of traditional knowledge helped them survive the devastating 2004 tsunami when they could apparently predict the imminent catastrophe. It is said they had already moved to the highlands. More recently, the government of India has started providing them with rations for which they briefly come out into civilisation.

Hotel Sealand in Gandhi Bazar, Hut Bay was to be our home for the next 3 days. Having unpacked and freshened up after the long marine journey we were now set to explore Little Andaman. We birders, especially from Mumbai usually shop for appropriate birding gear from the famous Decathlon where all our needs are fulfilled. It is therefore not unlikely to see people wearing similar clothes and shoes. Much to the amusement of our co-birders, Adesh, Anjali and I turned up in similar clothing that day. It’s called ‘twinning’ these days. 

Today we were to bird in the surrounding areas of Hut bay, Vivekanand Nagar and RKpur.

The day started with the usual suspects. A few egrets, Brown Shrikes and swallows gave us their customary glimpses. The sight of the Collared Kingfisher elicited jubilation from us photgraphers, although we had seen it on the first day itself. I have seen the bird in Goa and other places innumerable times but it was invariably hidden amongst bushes or too far away. It was challenging to photograph then. Here it seemed to be bolder and gave us enough time to take the desired snaps. 

Collared Kingfisher

As we drove along the coastline, the emerald and blue waters of the sea were a sight to behold. Fallen drift wood and black rocks created magic against the azure waves as we got off our vehicles to take in the charming landscapes.

As we drove along towards our birding location, we encountered lovely Pandanus shrubs. An economically important plant in the islands, each part of the plant is important. The stem branches of Pandanus are used in construction, the leaves used for weaving mats and the hard exterior of the fruit is used as a bathing brush. The fruit is also edible and is one of the staple foods of the Nicobarese.

Pandanus

Here too, as in the South Andaman, the path inside the forest was leech infested. A brisk walk into the wild yielded Brown Coucal, Vernal Hanging Parrot and some Red Breasted Parakeet. A  rather pale looking Crested Serpent Eagle perched majestically on a stump. It was identified as the Davisoni sub-species which occurs on the island. 

We were now out on the road. There was some drama to follow. We could see silhouettes or some birds on the bare branches of a tall tree in the distance. A Black Naped Oriole and some White Headed Starlings could be identified easily. There was one bird though that caught Adesh’s attention. With the excitement of a school boy he ID’d that as the Eye-browed Thrush. Marked as an important species in our checklist this one was uncommon in this area. I had now stopped keeping count of my lifers! 

Eye-browed Thrush

The same tree yielded some Daurian Starlings, Red Breasted Parakeets and Andaman Green Pigeon. We spent some time near this tree, taking a good look at the birds. It’s not very often that one gets such leisurely glimpses of such important species. Once again, Adesh’s sharp eye caught the sight of something unusual. Amongst the flock of Daurian Starlings there sat wedged in the V of the branches a rare Chestnut Cheeked Starling. That was the male with distinct chestnut cheek. Many females were there too.  Even Vikram, who is a regular observer here, was elated by the sight.. 

Chestnut Cheeked Starling (Record Shot)

A very satisfying birding session done, we headed to the hotel for lunch.

The evening session was in search of the Nightjar. We reached the Ramkrishnapur Dam which is about 18 kms from Hut Bay and 2.5 kms from RKpur village. We waited in anticipation. Vikram had named this area 28 for reasons unknown to him as well as any of us. What’s in a name anyway! So long as we get to see the elusive bird. But true to it’s nature, this one eluded us. As dusk fell we decided to give up the wait and headed instead in search of some owls. This time luck favoured us. We soon encountered an Andaman Scops Owl looking quizzically at us. 

Andaman Scops Owl

It was about 6.30 in the evening and pitch dark. In the silence of the night Vikram, Adesh and Mandar scoured the trees with their torch lights for any signs. With all of us in dull grey/green clothing and armed with binoculars and cameras that could pass of as weapons of mass destruction to the uninitiated, we looked like a battalion on terrorists! Sure enough, the locals soon suspected something amiss and not too long after, we noticed a few hefty men had arrived on the scene armed with sticks. The situation was soon brought under control by Vikram and the hearty laughter that followed, broke the silence of the night. The locals now at ease with the knowledge that we were just a bunch of harmless bird watchers, we resumed our search for our nocturnal friends. An Andaman Hawk Owl which had promptly perched itself on the overhead wire, flew away stealthily on hearing the commotion. We were however lucky to see it again as it settled on a branch of a tree. 

Andaman Hawk Owl

Owls spend much of their waking time hunting for food. Rodents, mice, lizards, snakes, squirrels, birds, etc. make up their diet. Owls depend on stealth for hunting. Their flight therefore is very silent, which makes it even more difficult to spot an owl unless it has perched somewhere.

Back at the hotel the rest of the evening was spent chatting over dinner followed by the customary ‘revision’ as in all Nature India trips.

(Day 4 –  Harminder Bay)

It was an early start to the day as our target species the illusive Nicobar Pigeon was found only in the inner reaches of the forest near Harminder Bay. Although situated just about 14 kms from Hut Bay, the forest itself is dense and the spot one can probably get the bird is remote. The past two days had been wet with intermittent showers disrupting our birding sessions. A tropical storm was brewing in the Bay of Bengal and strong winds had started to blow. Little did we expect a cyclone to ruin our plans. But several trees had been brought down by the gusty winds. We drove through the thick forests as far as we could go till we encountered a giant Padauk tree felled by the winds. There was no way the vehicle could move any further. And the spot was another 7 kms into the dense forest! A quick huddle over the idea and we decided to start walking and head straight for the spot without stopping of any other birds on the way. Vikram reminded us that it was an equal distance on the return and effectively we would be walking about 15 kms both ways through dense leech ridden jungle. So off we were in search of that reclusive pigeon. Well we did get a glimpse of one bird that was startled by our unexpected presence and took off from its feeding ground on the forest floor. It was well worth the long tiring walk. 

And on the return, Adesh, Mandar, Anjali and I who were lagging behind as we looked around at the density of the vegetation in awe, were the lucky ones to get the Pied Triller. On conveying their disappointment about missing the prized catch, Mandar had one of his crazy one-liners ready – “Samay se pehele aur naseeb se jyada kisi ko nahi milta!” Everyone was in splits. And yes, the ground orchids along the way were one more reason to smile. 

Ground Orchid

In the end, despite of the long exhausting walk we did manage about 20 odd species, notable among them being Andaman Woodpecker, Changeable Hawk Eagle and Andaman Coucal. Earlier in the day Vernal Hanging Parrots, Red Breasted Parakeets Olive Backed Sunbirds, some swallows, doves and egrets added to our list.  That evening we tried the Ramkrishnapur Dam once again for the nightjar only to be disappointed all over again. Some cheer was to come my way though when a Civet crossed our path while we were driving to the dam and soon disappeared into the bushes.    

(Day 5 – Hut Bay-Rabindra Nagar-Beach side)

It was our last day in Little Andaman. We were scheduled to leave on the overnight ship the next evening. But the cyclone which was brewing during the last couple of days had disturbed all the ship schedules and our plans as well. There are only about 3-4 ships that carry passengers between Port Blair, Little Andaman and the distant Nicobar Islands. None of them had been plying since the past few days due to the cyclone. We were wisely advised to take the first ship out to Port Blair. As luck would have it, a ship had arrived from Nicobar that very same day and would depart early the next morning. There being no guarantee of the next ship to Port Blair, it was decided that we take that ship in the morning itself. Now we were left with one day less.

We must make the most of this day, we thought. So off we were as usual before day break. The usual suspects – White Headed Starlings, Red breasted Parakeets and Black Naped Orioles were spotted. A solitary Andaman Bulbul sat handsomely on an overhead wire. Along the way we saw an immature Changeable Hawk Eagle perched on tall dry tree. The labyrinth of dry branches with the handsome little fellow perched in the centre made a surreal picture.

Changeable Hawk Eagle (Imm)

We had till now bagged four owl species, but the Andaman Barn Owl had eluded us. But that was to change very soon. The manner in which we were to see the wise one was incredible.  As we moved in our convoy towards the next birding spot, two local gentlemen on a motorbike caught up with our vehicle and said something to Vikram who was at the wheel. Vikram’s vehicle came to a screeching halt. Apparently, the men on the bike were telling him that an owl pair were roosting in their barn and had just had babies. They were sheltered in the barn on their terrace. He told Vikram we were welcome to come and see them if we wished. Soon enough, we were outside the gentleman’s house, waiting in anticipation. And the drama unfolded! It was sheer joy seeing the magnificent birds at such close quarters and which such ease. Mandar was ready with one more of his witty one-liners, “Jisko dhoonda gali gali woh dukaan ke peeche mili!!!”

Andaman Barn Owl

Five owl species now in our kitty, the rumble in our stomachs could not be ignored any longer. We drove upto a nearby shanty and were treated to piping hot bhajiyas and chai. The bhajiyas disappeared faster than they could appear. The rain added to the exuberant mood. On the way back, another bounty awaited us. As our vehicles drove towards our hotel we noticed huge bunches of fresh bananas fallen right in the middle of the road. It was deduced that they must have fallen off from an overloaded delivery van. Since no one came to claim the fallen bananas, Vikram felt we could do them some justice. As they say,  forbidden fruit tastes the sweetest!

The evening was spent on the beach watching Oriental Pratincoles, Golden Plovers and Collared Kingfishers. A Peregrine Falcon gave us a distant glimpse of himself. And the very rare Red Throated Pipit was ID’d by Vikram. As we leisurely walked along the beach, two fishermen sat on the white sands repairing their colourful fishing nets against the backdrop of the azure sea and blue sky. Certainly we couldn’t go back without capturing the charming scene in our cameras.

(Day 6 – On board Bharat Seema from Little Andaman to Port Blair)

So off we were that morning, aboard the Bharat Seema, bidding farewell to Little Andaman having bagged about a hundred species (including twenty seven in Little Andaman) over a period of five days. Unlike the Coral Queen, the Bharat Seema did not have the sleeper berths but seating instead. Some of us headed to the deck as soon as the ship sailed. It was an enjoyable journey with much of leg pulling and tom-foolery being indulged in. As we approached Port Blair, darkish clouds had gathered in the evening sky making curious shapes as they floated gracefully about. It had been raining for while. As we stood on the deck enjoying the cool breeze that kissed our faces, we were delighted to see a rainbow emerge at the horizon. Soon we could see Dolphins leaping playfully out of the water and splashing back down as they swam quickly away from our approaching ship. "Flying" Fish took to the air a few inches above the water as they "flew" speedily away.   

The evening in Port Blair was at leisure. But due to the uncertain ship departures we had landed into Port Blair a night earlier and our booking at our regular hotel Anchorage Inn was only from the next day. Thankfully, Vikram had got his comrades on their toes and we were accommodated in Hotel Swarajdeep for one night. Apparently, Swarajdeep and Shahiddweep were the names given to the Andaman & Nicobar Islands by Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose during World War II where he hoisted the Indian Flag and declared them part of India.

A special Bengali dinner was promised to us that night. Vikram, a Bengali himself, had recognised the foodies amongst us over the 5 days we had spent together. Images of doi maach, maccher jhol, kosha mangsho and fish chop floated in front of my craving eyes! At last we were seated in the modest restaurant when the waiter handed us the menu. All the images of the delicious Bengali dishes came crashing down as I read the menu. It had nothing to do with Bengali cuisine! 

(Day 7 – Mt. Harriet)

On this penultimate day we were headed to Mt. Harriet National Park. It was originally a reserve forest which was converted into a national park in 1979. The park has evergreen primary forests and a combination of tropical evergreen and littoral forests. There are several native as well as introduced species of plants and trees here. Several near threatened species of birds like Andaman wood pigeon and Andaman cuckoo-dove inhabit this forest.

We were at the Bamboo-Flat jetty at day break having disembarked from the ferry carrying us from Chatham Jetty. After a quick breakfast of boiled eggs and sandwiches at the entrance of the park, we began our walk into the sanctuary. A couple of Green Imperial Pigeons sat atop the high branches taking in the rising sun. A vividly coloured hammerhead slug crossed our path. 

Hammer-headed Slug

A Freckle Breasted Woodpecker was busy hammering his beak into the bark of a tree looking for food. A few Red Whiskered Bulbuls, an Andaman Bulbul were sighted as an Andaman Tree Nymph Butterfly floated breezily. An Andaman Drongo hid in the thickets. An Andaman Flower-pecker, Andaman Wood-pecker, Brown Coucal and Olive Backed Sunbird were spotted. The Andaman Tree-pie that had eluded us till now showed up much to our delight. And so did the Andaman Shama. Soon we reached the forest guest house located at the top of the hill. Vernal Hanging Parrots and Alexandrine Parakeets greeted us near the entrance. Plume-toed swiftlets glided in the sky. We all scrambled up to a watch tower which offered beautiful views of the coastline. White-bellied Sea Eagles could be seen gliding effortlessly in the blue skies. After a couple of hours of birding, it was time to head back to the jetty. On the way back, Vikram stopped at a particularly scenic spot and promptly whipped out a 20/- rupee note from his pocket. The image at the back of the note – a view from the hill overlooking the azure sea with a light house in the distance and palm fronds in the foreground – was the very same place we were standing. No prizes for guessing the photo-ops that followed.

It was humid and we were pretty exhausted from the hectic schedule of the previous days. A coconut vendor with his ware occupying almost half the road was too enticing to ignore. Soon we emptying the sweet coconut water down our parched throats. Needless to say, the leader of the pack got the biggest fruit!

(Pic.Courtesy : Rima Dhillon)

We checked in to Anchorage Inn that afternoon where a sumptuous lunch awaited us.

The evening session was the water body close by. Common Redshank and Greenshank, Wood and Common Sandpipers were the first to be sighted. A Whimbrel and a Eurasian Curlew skirted the marshes. 

Eurasian Curlew

Common Sandpiper

A Pin-tailed Snipe and White-breasted Water-hen moved unhurriedly as did the Lesser Sand Plovers and Pacific Golden Plovers. But it was a stint that caught our fancy. After much deliberation it was concluded that it was the rare Red-necked Stint. The Red-necked Stint has been reported occasionally from the Andamans. 




It is almost indistinguishable from the Little Stint in its non-breeding plumage but has longer wings and shorter neck – giving it a more “elongated” appearance. 

There was an obvious sense of exhileration amongst us.

The closing session had to be dedicated to the elusive Andaman Nightjar. The mangroves behind Andaman and Nicobar Environment Team (ANET) centre would be the probable area to explore. It was getting dark. We had to walk a bit into the mangroves along wet swampy marshes. We reached an area across a fence that demarcated the boundary of the centre and took our places where we stood still and in pin drop silence. The probability of the bird coming and sitting on the fence was high. Waiting in anticipation as it became darker, the waxing moon looked overwhelming.

We were soon losing patience. And then it was there. The elusive Andaman Nightjar gave us a fleeting glimpse as it flew out for a split second and back into the mangroves. But it was clear enough to be ticked off on our list. One more endemic marked off we were a bunch of happy birders. The chirps of a warbler made me explore the bushes close by. It was the Thick-billed Reed Warbler. The parting shot came from the Hume’s Hawk Owl perched vigilantly on a dry tree.

Hume's Hawk Owl

A quick stop for some chai turned out to be a feast. Soon delicious fish cutlets were being devoured. It would be an experience to remember forever. 

That night we celebrated the wedding anniversaries of Adesh and Divyesh (sans their wives of course) with a chocolate cake. Adesh and Divyesh were made to cut the cake together and feed each other much to their embarrassment and our amusement!

(Day 8 – Chidiya Tapu)

This morning we headed once again to Chidiya Tapu. Scaly Breasted Munia wouldn’t elicit much excitement as they were commonly seen in most parts of India. But here there were but a few records. We were lucky to see a biggish flock, mostly immature, their ‘scales’ still developing. 

As we entered the forest, the morning sun’s rays filtered through the tall forest canopy. Another one that had eluded us till now, the majestic Andaman Serpent Eagle gave us pure joy as he sat in all his regal splendour on an open branch giving us a clear view. 

Andaman Serpent Eagle

Further up a tall Padauk tree hinted at being infested with beautiful shimmering green insects which seemed to be some kind of wood borers. As they flew around their bright blue coloured bodies made us all go “ooooo!” and “ahhhh!” A chickoo tree near the parking area was teeming with the endemic Long-Tailed Parakeets feasting on the ripe fruits. A Black-Naped Monarch flitted inside the bushes. Soon an Andaman Bulbul and Andaman Shama distracted our attention. But the highlight here was the Orange-headed Ground Thrush which is not a very common sight here. While I sat on the buttress roots of a mighty Thitpok tree to catch my breath, I saw a fan throated lizard displaying his throat to attract his female. 

Crab Eating Macaque (fem)

We were now within the Biological Park area of Chidiya Tapu. An Asian Emerald Dove appeared next to the enclosure of Spotted Deer. Inside the enclosure a Crab-eating Macaque matriarch, endemic to the Nicobar islands, sat attentively, as the little babies pranced around under her watchful eye. The glorious White-headed Starlings whizzing in and out of a constructed cave proved some amusement. The Asian Fairy Blue-bird had given us a glimpse of its vibrant self almost every day at most of the places we visited.

Blue-tailed Bee-eaters provided much joy as did the Brown Coucal, the drongos, Vernal Hanging Parrot and Red-Breasted Parakeets. The Andaman Treepie once again graced us with its presence as did the Plume-toed and Glossy Swiftlets. The Brown-backed Needletails were still there too.

With as many as a hundred and ten odd species in our booty, Vikram suggested we try for the Mangrove Whistler before calling it a day. A local diving centre on the periphery of the mangroves was where the bird had been sighted before. Once again the exercise of taking our places and standing still while we waited for the bird was followed. This time it didn’t make us wait too long. Within the next 5 minutes the beauty darted into sight for a fraction of a moment, sat on a branch for another fraction and off it was into the mangroves. Rima was the only lucky one amongst us to capture it in her camera. We were content just watching it!

On the way back, a quick stop at the water body yielded some waders including a White-Breasted Waterhen, a Pin-tailed Snipe, Common Moorhen, some sandpipers, plovers, egrets, a Whimbrel and a Curlew. The Red-necked Stint was still around and we confirmed it once again through the spotting scope.  The Striated Heron was seen once again.

Habitat of the Red-necked Stint and other waders near Port Blair

(Day 9 – Departure)

Having added about 50 species to my life list, our total in the Andamans added upto a commendable 111 including about 20 endemics. It was the end of yet another memorable trip with Nature India. Vikram Shil made it a wonderful experience. Our drivers Kishore and Clement were ever so helpful. Will recommend Vikram to all birding enthusiasts. And how can I end without mentioning Adesh Shivkar and Mandar Khadilkar? Adesh for being a mentor to me and my bouncing board for most of my blogs and Mandar for providing non-stop entertainment and of course invaluable information! And thanks Anjali Kelkar for being my bouncing board for this one.

(Vikram’s contact: natureland@rediffmail.com and naturelandportblair@gmail.com  - 

Tel: 9434262681, 9679562681)

Nivedita Kotharé

28th December 2018

Complete List of Birds  Sighted:

1.           Lesser Whistling-Duck - Dendrocygna javanica

2.           Cotton Pygmy-Goose - Nettapus coromandelianus

3.           Sunda Teal - Anas gibberifrons

4.           Rock Pigeon - Columba livia

5.           Red Collared-Dove - Streptopelia tranquebarica

6.           Asian Emerald Dove - Chalcophaps indica

7.           Andaman Green-Pigeon - Treron chloropterus

8.           Green Imperial-Pigeon - Ducula aenea

9.           Nicobar Imperial-Pigeon - Ducula nicobarica

10.        Andaman Coucal - Centropus andamanensis

11.        Asian Koel - Eudynamys scolopaceus

12.        Andaman Nightjar - Caprimulgus andamanicus

13.        Brown-backed Needletail - Hirundapus giganteus

14.        White-nest Swiftlet - Aerodramus fuciphagus

15.        Glossy Swiftlet - Collocalia esculenta

16.        Eurasian Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus

17.        Gray-headed Swamphen - Porphyrio poliocephalus

18.        Watercock - Gallicrex cinerea

19.        White-breasted Waterhen - Amaurornis phoenicurus

20.        Pacific Golden-Plover - Pluvialis fulva

21.        Lesser Sand-Plover - Charadrius mongolus

22.        Kentish Plover - Charadrius alexandrinus

23.        Pheasant-tailed Jacana - Hydrophasianus chirurgus

24.        Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus

25.        Eurasian Curlew - Numenius arquata

26.        Red-necked Stint - Calidris ruficollis

27.        Pin-tailed Snipe - Gallinago stenura

28.        Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos

29.        Green Sandpiper - Tringa ochropus

30.        Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia

31.        Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola

32.        Common Redshank - Tringa totanus

33.        Oriental Pratincole - Glareola maldivarum

34.        Whiskered Tern - Chlidonias hybrida

35.        Yellow Bittern - Ixobrychus sinensis

36.        Cinnamon Bittern - Ixobrychus cinnamomeus

37.        Gray Heron - Ardea cinerea

38.        Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea

39.        Great Egret - Ardea alba

40.        Intermediate Egret - Ardea intermedia

41.        Little Egret - Egretta garzetta

42.        Pacific Reef-Heron - Egretta sacra

43.        Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis

44.        Indian Pond-Heron - Ardeola grayii

45.        Striated Heron - Butorides striata

46.        Black Baza - Aviceda leuphotes

47.        Crested Serpent-Eagle - Spilornis cheela

48.        Andaman Serpent-Eagle - Spilornis elgini

49.        Changeable Hawk-Eagle - Nisaetus limnaeetus

50.        Black Kite - Milvus migrans

51.        Brahminy Kite - Haliastur indus

52.        White-bellied Sea-Eagle - Haliaeetus leucogaster

53.        Barn Owl - Tyto alba

54.        Andaman Scops-Owl - Otus balli

55.        Oriental Scops-Owl - Otus sunia

56.        Hume's Boobook - Ninox obscura

57.        Common Kingfisher - Alcedo atthis

58.        Stork-billed Kingfisher - Pelargopsis capensis

59.        White-throated Kingfisher - Halcyon smyrnensis

60.        Collared Kingfisher - Todiramphus chloris

61.        Blue-tailed Bee-eater - Merops philippinus

62.        Chestnut-headed Bee-eater - Merops leschenaulti

63.        Freckle-breasted Woodpecker - Dendrocopos analis

64.        Andaman Woodpecker - Dryocopus hodgei

65.        Peregrine Falcon - Falco peregrinus

66.        Alexandrine Parakeet - Psittacula eupatria

67.        Red-breasted Parakeet - Psittacula alexandri

68.        Long-tailed Parakeet - Psittacula longicauda

69.        Vernal Hanging-Parrot - Loriculus vernalis

70.        White-breasted Woodswallow - Artamus leucorynchus

71.        Small Minivet - Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

72.        Scarlet Minivet - Pericrocotus speciosus

73.        Ashy Minivet - Pericrocotus divaricatus

74.        Large Cuckooshrike - Coracina macei

75.        Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike - Coracina striata

76.        Pied Triller - Lalage nigra

77.        Mangrove Whistler - Pachycephala cinerea

78.        Brown Shrike - Lanius cristatus

79.        Eurasian Golden Oriole - Oriolus oriolus

80.        Black-naped Oriole - Oriolus chinensis

81.        Black Drongo - Dicrurus macrocercus

82.        Andaman Drongo - Dicrurus andamanensis

83.        Greater Racket-tailed Drongo - Dicrurus paradiseus

84.        Black-naped Monarch - Hypothymis azurea

85.        Andaman Treepie - Dendrocitta bayleii

86.        House Crow - Corvus splendens

87.        Large-billed Crow - Corvus macrorhynchos

88.        Barn Swallow - Hirundo rustica

89.        Pacific Swallow - Hirundo tahitica

90.        Red-rumped Swallow - Cecropis daurica

91.        Andaman Bulbul - Brachypodius fuscoflavescens

92.        Red-whiskered Bulbul - Pycnonotus jocosus

93.        Thick-billed Warbler - Arundinax aedon

94.        Clamorous Reed Warbler - Acrocephalus stentoreus

95.        Asian Fairy-bluebird - Irena puella

96.        Asian Brown Flycatcher - Muscicapa dauurica

97.        Oriental Magpie-Robin - Copsychus saularis

98.        Andaman Shama - Copsychus albiventris

99.        Eyebrowed Thrush - Turdus obscurus

100.     Asian Glossy Starling - Aplonis panayensis

101.     Common Hill Myna - Gracula religiosa

102.     Rosy Starling - Pastor roseus

103.     Daurian Starling - Agropsar sturninus

104.     Chestnut-cheeked Starling - Agropsar philippensis

105.     White-headed Starling - Sturnia erythropygia

106.     Common Myna - Acridotheres tristis

107.     Andaman Flowerpecker - Dicaeum virescens

108.     Olive-backed Sunbird - Cinnyris jugularis

109.     Red-throated Pipit - Anthus cervinus

110.     House Sparrow - Passer domesticus

111.     Scaly-breasted Munia - Lonchura punctulata