Islands in the Sky

Adesh Shivkar had just announced Nature India’s new trip – “Birding in the Sky Islands across the Palghat Gap” – the name itself sounded so spectacular that it could pique anyone’s interest! Islands in the sky? My imagination soared as I pictured myself flying to one of those little islands in the sky surrounded by a sea of clouds!

Before long I had taken off on the flight (not of my imagination!) but the early morning Air India flight to Coimbatore. And my wild imagination took a nose dive, when I learnt that one couldn’t ‘fly’ to the “sky islands” as they rise from the hills!!

In a metaphorical sense, ‘island’ refers to anything being isolated and surrounded by something else. "Sky Islands" in India refer to isolated, high-altitude tropical montane forests particularly Shola forests in the Western Ghats. The word ‘shola’ originates from the Dravidian word solai, which means ‘forest grove’. Shola forests are unique, tropical montane evergreen forests found in disjunct patches within rolling grasslands at high elevations (1400-2700m) in the Western Ghats of South India. They are characterized by stunted trees and high biodiversity, acting as crucial water sponges for major rivers and harbouring many endemic species, despite facing threats from habitat loss. They rise from the slopes of the Nilgiris, Palani and Annamalai Hills and are separated by lower elevation grasslands, creating unique ecosystems with many endemic species, much like oceanic islands but in the sky. The isolation fosters unique evolutionary paths, making them a vital ecological habitat.

We were a motley group of nine from different parts of India, including Adesh Shivkar, the founder of Nature India and one of India’s most knowledgeable and humble ornithologists. Hema Subramanium, Yasmin Khan, Adesh and myself were from Mumbai, Gayatri Pimple from Pune, Elumalai R from Chennai, Suresh VC and Jamal Mohmed came in from Calicut and Deepa K from Bangalore. We were met at the Coimbatore airport by Jana (Janarthanan) and Arvind, our guide and driver respectively. The Nilgiris beckoned us. With our luggage safely packed into the back of the bus, we were on our way into the hills.

The Nilgiris are the southern-most end of the Western Ghats. Older than the great Himalayan mountains, the Western Ghats are a UNESCO World Heritage Site which have an exceptionally high level of biological diversity and endemism. They are also recognized as one of the world’s eight ‘hottest hotspots’ of biological diversity. Running parallel to India’s west coast, they are referred to by different names as they pass through the different states of India – in Gujarat they are called the Dangs, in Maharashtra and Goa we call them the Sahyadris, Karnataka refers to them as Malabar and finally in Kerala and Tamil Nadu they become the Nilgiris!

Another interesting feature in the Western Ghats is the Palghat Gap (or Palakkad Gap). It is a geographical gap in the mountain range, about 30 to 40 kms wide, creating a natural corridor between the Nilgiri Hills and Annamalai Hills, connecting the states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Because of the Palghat Gap unique species of flora and fauna have evolved on either side making it ecologically crucial and a critical hotspot for conservation.   

We were headed South of the Palghat Gap to a place called Valparai, a serene hill station nestled in the Annamalai hills at an altitude of 3,474 feet above sea level. It shares its borders with the Annamalai Tiger Reserve, Parambikulam Tiger Reserve, Eravikulam National Park and Vazhachal forest division.

The bird species found here differ significantly from those found north of the Palghat gap, reflecting distinct ecological zones and evolutionary histories.

The route from Coimbatore to Valparai took us through the town of Pollachi. We took a short break at a local roadside eatery. Adesh ordered some tea and then brought out his goody bag of tasty knick-knacks that he had carried with him from Mumbai for all of us. As we savoured some biscuits and tea, one local lungi-clad gent walked in with a big transparent plastic bag of what looked like large (6 inch) pancakes. I am one who loves to try out local food wherever I travel, so instinctively, my eyes followed the bag in the lungi-clad gent’s hand. And the eyes of my fellow travellers followed mine! On Nature India trips, as a policy, food becomes an integral part of the trip and holds equal importance as birding itself. As most participants were not new to Nature India policies (Adesh makes sure about that!), the man at the counter was soon surrounded by nine curious bird-watchers wanting to know the identity of the pancakes. We learnt that they were ‘varkey’, crispy and flaky baked biscuits made from sweetened flour and semolina with their origins in the Nilgiri district of Tamil Nadu. Needless to say, a dozen or so varkeys were polished off there and then, and another dozen packed and carried for the journey ahead. The fun had just begun.

The plains of Pollachi are connected to Valparai by a winding mountainous road in the Anamalai Hills. As we began the ascent, the road took us through a total of 40 hairpin bends. The bends began at Aliyar check point area of the Annamalai Tiger Reserve. Each bend was numbered and named after a rare bird or animal found in the region and a board displaying the number of the bend and a picture of that animal or bird is displayed at each bend. As Arvind, our driver, negotiated the hairpin bends with fluid ease, he had to put his foot on the brakes at the sight of a family of three Nilgiri Tahr. There they were, on the road-side barrier, unperturbed by our enthusiasm. A handsome male sat calmly beside his lady who stood attentively looking down into the valley below, as their kid lay sprawled on the road close to its mother. Nilgiri Tahr, endemic to this part of the Western Ghats, is the only mountain ungulate in southern India. It inhabits the open montane grassland habitats and prefers open terrain, cliffs and grass-covered hills, at elevations from 1200 to 2600 m. Once found along the entire stretch of Western Ghats, it is now found only in small fragmented pockets. A large part of its population has been wiped out from its historical range and existing populations are under severe stress due to habitat loss and hunting. I considered myself truly blessed to have seen this monarch of the mountains in my lifetime.

After a scenic meander up the winding mountain path, we reached the Relax Real Homestay in Iyerpadi, which was to be our really relaxing home over the next two days. In a country obsessed with statues of political leaders, the tiny town of Iyerpadi too had its own – a statue of former Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu M G Ramachandran (MGR) with his trademark dark glasses, of course.

As we settled into our rooms, a scrumptious lunch awaited us. The earthy aroma of the rustic dishes teased our senses as we gathered around the dining table after freshening up after the journey. A delicious spread of sambar, rasam, some vegetables, buttermilk, rice and some crispy papadam was laid out on the table waiting to be devoured!! The hosts though had over-estimated our appetite for rice while under-estimating our appetite for papadam!! The estimates were duly corrected the very next day.

Our first birding session of the trip began that afternoon on the Valparai-Athirapalli Road going towards the Sholayar Dam Park. The distance of roughly 20 kms would normally take about 40 minutes. But for us it was not the destination, but the journey that mattered. Our journey would take us around 3 hours as we stopped at spots we thought would yield good sightings, getting off the bus to look for our avian friends, then back onto the bus in search of another point enroute. This was to be our routine over the next four days.

The place we were in is globally known for the Lion-tailed Macaque, an endemic and endangered primate species of the Western Ghats. This is the only place in the world that one can see the Lion-tailed Macaque, so all of us were waiting to see one in eager anticipation. But what we hadn’t anticipated was that we would see one so soon.  We were in for a pleasant surprise when, within minutes of leaving from our homestay, one Lion-tailed macaque came and sat on the road-side railing staring at us curiously. We looked different from the local folk that he was used to seeing! 

Of the 17 species of primates found in the Indian subcontinent, the Lion-tailed Macaque is perhaps the most unique monkey. Although they are named “lion-tailed”, they also sport a lion-like mane, so I wondered why they were not named “lion-faced macaques” instead! Although they may look fierce, Wanderoos, as they are often referred to, are gentle and shy. They are mainly fruit-eating monkeys and live in troops. Traditionally they are a strictly arboreal species inhabiting the high canopies, but fragmentation of their habitat has led to a reduction in the native fruit-bearing trees they depend on, forcing them to look for alternative food sources on the ground, including garbage, or, in some cases, to raid homes. In a shrinking rainforest, such as in Valparai, Lion-tailed macaques are in danger of extinction.

Moving on, two Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters did a balancing act on a gently swaying branch. A spotted dove daintily walked on the ground bobbing its head back and forth. A few pictures taken, and we were soon on our way, driving along the winding road with ever-green forests on either side. Half an hour into the drive and we had seen our second endemic monkey. An enthusiastic Jana, our guide, had spotted a family of 4-5 Nilgiri Langurs perched high up in the fig trees. Their glossy black fur contrasting with a distinctive orangey-golden mane against the leafy green surrounding made a pretty picture. Preferring a high-canopy life, their diet consists of tender foliage, ripe fruits and even flowers and seeds. Sadly, like many other species of wild animals, the Nilgiri Langur too is classified as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List. I consider myself fortunate to get glimpses of these beautiful animals and birds before we lose them to our selfish ‘development’ agenda.

The scenes from my window, as we drove through the lush tea estates with their manicured tea gardens seamlessly transitioning into dense wild forests, were charming. We made frequent stops each time a new bird was spotted. While the Southern Hill Myna was my lifer, I had seen the Malabar Barbet and Malabar Parakeet only once before way back in 2015 in Goa on one more memorable trip with Adesh and Nature India. In addition, we saw the usual suspects like the Red-wattled Lapwings, Pond Herons, a Crested Serpent-Eagle soaring over the open skies, Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, pairs of Orange Minivets, a vibrant Golden Oriole, Ashy Drongos, Red-whiskered Bulbuls and of course the vociferous Jungle Myna. 

The onward drive took us from the dense forest uphill into the open where we reached a point from where a scenic vista unfolded before our eyes. We had a bird’s eye view of the Sholayar Reservoir which is part of the Sholayar Hydroelectric Project. The slopes of lush green tea plantations ended in the tranquil expanse of clear blue water cradled by the majestic mountains.   As we took in the serene beauty of the place Adesh’s keen eyes had spotted some Malabar Imperial Pigeons. True to their name, they were elegance personified. 

Malabar Imperial Pigeon - Ducula cuprea

Two Orange Minivets flitted nearby. And then, a fluttering movement in the tree nearby was impossible to miss for the sheer size of the bird. The Great Pied Hornbill! Usually seen in large numbers in this part of the forest, today there was just one individual. It is, after all, their nesting season. Hornbill mothers will seal themselves into tree holes after laying their eggs and remain there till their chick is old enough to fly on its own. During this time the male is busy with his paternal duties of finding food to feed his lady love and their babies. A couple of Malabar Grey Hornbills relished some fruits in the company of the Great Pied. A Grey-fronted (Pompadoooor) Green Pigeon sat faaaar away at a vantage point over-looking the reservoir.

The evening light was soon fading as we reached the Sholayar Dam Park. There was a chill in the air…. and then there were roadside tea shops serving smoking hot tea. How could one resist that cuppa which feels like a warm hug in a mug? 😊As we sipped on our steaming cups of chai, Adesh pointed to Indian swiftlets flying overhead. One more lifer for me!! A couple of Brahminy Kites glided effortlessly overhead. On the drive back to our homestay, we were all ears to the interesting information and stories Adesh shared with us, as he always does 😊

The usual round of revision of the day’s sighting followed a sumptuous dinner. This time the papadam estimates were right! The night in the hills was biting cold and the warm blankets in our rooms beckoned us.

The next morning I woke up at the crack of dawn to the mellifluous song of a whistling school boy. Wait! It’s not what you’re thinking! I wasn’t enamoured by any random school boy, not at my age! It was the Malabar Whistling Thrush. A bird with the most melodious whistle. He’s not called the ‘whistling school boy’ for no reason! We had decided to start a bit late that day as Jana had suggested, due to the early morning mist. But the bird-watcher’s soul in all of us got the better of Jana’s suggestion and I soon realised that it was not just I who had woken up to the song of the whistling school boy!  

As I waited on the verandah outside my room, I was mesmerised by the picturesque vistas of the distant mountains and the lush green forests nestled in their shadow. The air was crisp and cold. Though I had a warm pull-over on, another jacket would be needed, I thought. A last-minute sprint back into my room for my jacket…..   I was now ready to brave the cold. 

The mist had settled and we were on our way. Some strikingly vibrant Plum-headed Parakeets clung onto gently swaying boughs. The whistling school boy (Malabar Whistling Thrush) showed up but played hide and seek as the photographers in our group tried to capture him in their lenses. Little did we know then, that our school boy would give us a grand display of his vibrant self a little later in the day! Orange minivets perched on overhead wires. As we waited staring into the bushes for a glimpse of anything with wings, I could feel a light weight on my shoulder. As I looked back, it was Gayatri using my shoulder as a support for her huge 100-500 lens. Yasmin didn't miss the opportunity of capturing the moment in her camera. Such is the camaraderie on Nature India trips  😊        

A glistening black Ashy Drongo sipped nectar from the bright orange flower of the Indian Coral tree. Asian Brown Flycatchers and Pied Bushchats basked in the morning sun.

It was a cold morning and tummies were soon rumbling. On wild birding expeditions like this one, food stops are often decided by the availability of toilet facilities. Adesh suggested we go to Valparai town where we would find food joints where we could fill our tummies as well as empty our bladders. 😊 Jana took us to a local restaurant which served us a delicious array of south Indian delicacies. Each of us feasted on the dish of our choice. Tummy full, bladders empty, and a cup of black tea to finish the treat and we were on our way, re-fuelled and ready to go. 

While waiting for Arvind to bring the bus, I was pleasantly surprised to see a jeep driving around announcing awareness messages about human-wildlife conflicts in the area. Over the past several centuries, human activities have chipped away at the unique ecosystems of the Nilgiris. Both grasslands and sholas have been razed for plantations that grow tea, coffee, cardamom and other crops. Due to this habitat fragmentation, wild animals like Gaur, elephants, and even leopards venture into the estates seeking food and water and the workers, often migrants, lack awareness. The local forest department has taken the initiative and focuses on educating tea estate workers (especially migrants) and locals about coexisting with the wild animals. 

Nearby, I noticed a six/seven-year-old boy with little binoculars around his neck. “Look! I too have a pair,” I said to him. Joy radiated from his eyes. He was chirpy and excited to show off his binocs to me. We were soon comparing each other’s binocs as he looked playfully into mine and I into his. I had shared a beautiful moment with the little boy. I left with a smile on my face, and hope in my heart that he would, someday, be a future protector of nature.

Back into the bus, we wound our way back into the hills from the town of Valparai. A Malabar Flowerpecker peeped through the thickets refusing to come out. We got out from the bus at a place called Kamaraj Nagar. The vistas of lush green tea gardens contrasting against the cerulean sky were breathtaking. 

As we walked along the road enjoying the profusion of beauty surrounding us, Adesh was animatedly calling us, pointing to a Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker scampering up and down a tree in the thickets, pecking purposefully at the bark. Watching a woodpecker navigate a tree is like observing a master carpenter at work, blending intense physical labour with acrobatic grace. Woodpeckers have specialised feet, called zygodactyl, with two toes facing forward and two backward, to provide a firm grip on bark. And when you watch them peck at speeds of up to 13 to 16 times per second you wonder how they don’t suffer concussions. Well, their skulls are like small and spongy helmets that absorb the shock and their tongue acts as a double helmet, wrapping around the skull to act as a shock absorber, protecting the brain during forceful pecking. The excitement grew as the woodpecker came out in the open allowing our photographers some great pictures. And the icing on the cake was another individual close by! A pair of woodpeckers in one frame!  Our attention was diverted once more when Adesh pointed to a Dusky Striped Squirrel, another endemic to this region. 

The morning chill had mellowed a bit. It was time to shed some layers of clothing.

Malabar Flameback - Chrysocolaptes socialis

Babblers are usually seen foraging in noisy groups along open hillsides, but this Rufous Babbler refused to come out of the bushes. We tried hard to capture him in our lenses but soon let him go as our attention was diverted to a Malabar Flameback (Woodpecker).  It was a handsome male. His chisel-like beak hammered rapidly on the tree trunk looking for insects to eat. Nearby a Racket-tailed Drongo sat calmly on a branch, his blue-black feathers glistening in the beams of sunlight that fell on him. His long tail, after which he his named, gave him an air of elegance and grace. Racket-tailed drongos can be pretty aggressive and are known for their antics. They often follow birds like woodpeckers and babblers when they are foraging, moving with them from one branch to another. They will ambush and grab the food that is sourced by the other birds. No wonder then, that this fellow was in the vicinity of the Flameback.

While walking along the boundary wall of a tea estate, Adesh noticed a Black Eagle gliding low over the tea shrubs within the estate. As we stood at the gate gawking in awe at the bird of prey, the man at the gate, seeing our enthusiasm, was kind enough to allow us into the estate. The eagle’s slow graceful flight allowed us to see it’s bright yellow bill and feet that contrasted with its deep black feathers. Black Eagles have broad wings with distinct “fingers” (widely splayed primary feathers at their wingtips), as well as a long tail that is fan-shaped when open and slightly wedge-shaped when closed. Adesh explained the identifying features. Thanking the kind man, we left the estate. The bus had arrived for all of us to hop in.

As we enjoyed the views of the panoramic landscape from the bus, it was another sight that elicited a sudden collective shriek of excitement from all of us. From the moving bus, we had spotted some Lion-tailed macaques sitting on the tin roof of a small shed. After the sight of the lone macaque the day earlier, this was the feast we were waiting for. As we quickly got off the bus, we realised there was an entire troop – about 10-15 of them. It was sad to see the traditionally arboreal animals scavenging on garbage left on the roadside. We stared in wonder as they leaped from the roof top onto the roads, walking calmly into the adjacent forest on seeing us. They were now in their natural habitat – up in the trees. There were several adults – a few males and many females – along with several young ones and babies. The youngsters played mischievously amongst themselves, with some little ones hanging off the tails of their older siblings; others engrossed in play-wrestling matches. A few pairs were busy grooming one another. And all along, a symphony of gentle baby-like coos could be heard as we watched them in awe. Adesh then told us something interesting. Local NGOs like Nature Conservation Foundation (NCF) had constructed canopy bridges at locations where Lion-tailed macaques and other arboreal animals like the Nilgiri langur and Indian giant squirrel were frequently observed crossing the road and where tree connectivity was weak or absent. They had also employed “watchers” who monitor their movements to ensure that vehicles don’t speed on these routes. These watchers stand by the roadsides, stopping speeding vehicles, holding placards saying “Go Slow – macaques crossing” and to educate tourists and prevent them from feeding lion-tailed macaques. Coincidentally, one of the watchers was there at the time and it was indeed nice to meet him.

When I think of the amount of effort we need to put into saving our wild animals, David Attenborough’s words ring true – “We often talk of saving the planet, but the truth is that we must do these things to save ourselves. With or without us, the wild will return.”

Malabar Whistling Thrush - Myophonus horsfieldii

Our afternoon birding session began in the hills of Iyerpadi. The air was cool, crisp and clear as we stood at the edge of the road overlooking the valley draped in lush Camellia sinensis shrubs. The meandering road disappeared into the majestic mountains in the distance. A symphony of bird calls played in the background - Rufous babblers, Malabar Whistling thrushes, Magpie Robins, Bulbuls, Minivets….  Adesh’s keen eyes had spotted a flock of Rufous Babblers flitting inside the bush below us. Our position above the bushes made it difficult to see them and we strained our eyes to get a glimpse, following their movement keenly. 

“It’s there!” Elu’s confident observation made us all go, “where… where!”  Birding is a game of patience, and Adesh’s advice to us was to wait in silence and watch. He was sure the birds would come out into the open. Minutes later we all standing in silence, gawking at a different feathered friend! It wasn’t the babblers but a strikingly beautiful Malabar Whistling Thrush that flew down onto an open parapet abutting the road. It pranced about daintily, flaunting its brilliant blue colours in the warm light of the afternoon sun. A photographer’s delight! The bird in the bush who had evaded us this morning, was now almost in our hand!! None of Nature India trips are complete without saying “samay se pehle aur naseeb se jyada kisi ko kuch nahi milta!”  

Rufous Babbler - Argya subrufa

Soon afterwards, the flock of restless and skittish Rufous Babblers too joined the fashion parade as four of them flew from the thickets onto the open parapet one after the other. They looked like angry birds as they babbled vociferously amongst themselves. The cacophony was music to our ears. As they hopped off one by one, just as they had come, and disappeared back into the bushes, a Magpie Robin decided not to be left out.

Palani Laughingthrush - Montecincla fairbanki

On the way back to the home-stay another endemic, the Palani Laughingthrush (Chilappan) obliged us with a glimpse. Heard more than seen, its songs and calls are usually the first indication of its presence. Jana’s keen hearing sense had located the bird even from the moving bus. As we got off once more, sure enough it was right there. A symbol of the region’s rich biodiversity, the Palani Laughingthrush too, like other avian species, faces threats from habitat loss. As I climbed back into the bus, I said a silent prayer in my heart hoping that its laughter will continue to echo through the Palani hills for generations to come.

The setting sun had bathed the sky in hues of orange and red. We were soon negotiating the sharp hairpin bends of the Pollachi-Valparai road to get back to our homestay in time for dinner. The next day was going to be a long one. We would do one last session in the south of the Palaghat Gap and then we were headed for Kotagiri to the north which was a long 150 km drive.

The air was crisp and cold as we checked out early that morning. We thanked Suresh and Sakthivel, the staff at Relax Real Homestay, for their warm hospitality and delicious food. (and for complying promptly with our demands for more papadams 😊)

As usual, we would bird along the way wherever the opportunity arose. The journey once again took us on the hairpin bends as we descended into the Palghat Gap from the sky island of Valparai. While passing between the 37^th and 38^th bend, Adesh instinctively knew that the area looked ideal for some good bird life. We get off to scan the tall foliage. Sure enough, Adesh’s keen eyes had spotted a Velvet-fronted Nuthatch “scampering up and down the bark of a tree like a mouse”, in Dr. Salim Ali’s words. Till today, no one has been able to match his description of birds even closely. As we watched the beauty in awe, our attention was diverted as a Speckled Piculet, a diminutive woodpecker, came and perched on an Indian Coral Tree. This was one of the first birds I had seen in the Great Himalayan National Park way back in 2000. Those days, fancy cameras were not so common. A pair of heavy Poro prism 10x50 Olympus binoculars was my only equipment.

Soon there was a profusion of bird activity in the tall trees. A Paradise flycatcher, Orange minivets, Ashy drongos, Indian White-eyes, a Rusty-tailed flycatcher, a pair of Nilgiri flycatchers, an Asian fairy Bluebird, Brown-cheeked Fulvettas – it was a mixed hunting flock. In the wild different species of birds often move, hunt and feed together. These alliances offer several advantages. There’s safety in numbers; more eyes mean a better chance of spotting predators like hawks or snakes. Additionally, flocking birds can find food more efficiently, especially when some species are particularly skilled at uncovering hidden insects or fruits. One of my favourite birds, the Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike was also part of the mixed flock. Is it a flycatcher or a shrike? I wondered. Turns out, a flycatcher-shrike is a unique bird that acts like both, but taxonomically it's now generally placed with the Vangidae family related to woodshrikes, rather than true shrikes or typical flycatchers, despite its name and insect-catching (flycatcher-like) behaviour. While they do catch insects mid-air like flycatchers, they have slightly hooked bills, linking them to the shrike-like group.

As we drove along, another stop near hairpin bend 32 yielded a White-bellied Sholakili or White-bellied blue robin. Extremely shy, it is usually found in the shady understory of the Shola forests. With a range limited only to the Shola forests, we had seen yet another “Near Threatened” species.

As we drove further north, our eyes fell on two road-side tea shops. As Adesh, sitting in the front of the bus, turned around to say something, we had anticipated what his suggestion would be. It was a collective outburst! We stop for breakfast! Krishna Tea Shop offered fresh dosas and bread-omelette. There was Maggi noodles too, but that was no match for the local delicacies on offer. As some of us ordered bread-omelette, others opted for dosa. The dosas were the first to be served. Jamal, Hema, Deepa and Elu had already attacked them.  As Suresh, Gayatri, Yasmin and I waited for our bread-omelette, the sight of the freshly made dosas was irresistible. Why not taste some, we thought. By the time the bread-omelette arrived we had devoured countless number of dosas. Adesh, who was watching a Grey wagtail on the road, had missed the assault and later, on learning the number of dosas that were devoured, he was speechless! (for once😊) But eventually he too savoured some fluffy ones with his bread-omelette. As a wonderful gesture, Adesh suggested we have tea from the neighbouring shop, as Krishna Tea Shop had already received enough business from us (considering the number of dosas devoured!)   

We were back on the bus with our tummies full and once again Adesh spotted something from the moving bus. This time it wasn’t a bird but a rare flower that grows on the ground. The Magenta Ghost Flower (Christisonia tubulosa) is a rare endemic parasitic plant, which was rediscovered in 2003, after 90 years in the Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary in the Anamalais, near Pollachi. (source: Flowersofindia.net) 

Jerdon’s Bushlark -Plocealauda affinis 

A highly productive birding session in the south of the Palghat Gap had come to an end. We were now on our way to the north of the Palghat Gap – to Kotagiri via Mettupalayam where we stopped for a lunch and loo break. Jana had identified a location where we could stop for birds enroute after lunch – an open farmland near Medur Pethikuttai Forest, Sirumugai. It turned out to be an excellent habitat as it yielded many important species. A lone Alpine Swift, the largest swift species of India seemed to welcome us as it soared gracefully in the sky above. Winter migrants to this part of the region, European Bee-eaters performed arial sallies catching insects on the wing much to our collective admiration. The cryptic appearance of a Jerdon’s Bushlark’s made it difficult to spot until it flew up and perched on a stump. The hour and a half that we spent on the farmland, also gave us other common species like Indian Robins, Pied Bushchats, Purple Sunbirds, Brahminy Starlings, Warblers, Shrikes, Drongos, etc.

Enroute to Kotagiri, we passed road-side vendors selling a diverse array of bananas. It was fascinating to see the display of bananas of different shapes, sizes and colours ranging from shades of green and yellow to some red bananas. Adesh bought a couple of dozens for all of us.

It was late evening by the time we reached Kotagiri, and it was freezing cold. Our rooms at the Thillai Garden Cottages, which was to be our home over the next two days, overlooked a forest. Unable to resist an attempt at sighting an owl or some nocturnal bird, we lined up on the verandah as we waited for dinner. But we had no such luck.

Indian Blackbird - Turdus simillimus

The next day began early. Jana and Arvind were ready at the appointed time of 6.45 am. It was still dark as we began our drive towards Doddabetta where we were likely to get our target species of the day, the Nilgiri Chillappan (Laughingthrush), relatively easily. Along the way, from the moving bus, Jana’s keen eyes had spotted a Nilgiri Thrush foraging on the leaf litter on the roadside. How he had managed to spot such a cryptic coloured bird in such low light especially when it was so well camouflaged in the leaf litter, is commendable. He was well versed with the locations and habitats of the local birds and soon we had stopped where he was sure we would see some Painted Bush-quails. These birds are usually seen foraging in small groups by roadsides early morning and late evening. The road had a forest on one side and tea shrubs on the other. We scanned the shrubs on the slopes below as Indian Blackbirds hopped about on the food-carts parked by the roadside. The loud, distinctive call of a Grey Jungle Fowl echoed through the forest. He came to the edge for a brief moment, and gave us a glimpse of his beautiful self. The sun was just about rising and the air was misty and cold. Adesh’s eyes were still scanning the shrubs for the bush-quails. It wasn’t long before he spotted a pair of rather elusive Painted Bush-quails foraging in the garbage by the roadside.  Pecking at food scraps and seeds as they walked about, they intermittently disappeared into the bushes on sensing disturbance from us.

Nilgiri Chilappan - Montecincla cachinnans

We moved to an open field a little further down the road on Jana’s suggestion where there was a likelihood of seeing a Nilgiri Pipit. While scanning for the pipit, we saw another bird we were waiting for in all eagerness. The Nilgiri laughingthrush! Once a common sight across the extensive shola forests, it is listed as “Near Threatened” in the IUCN Red List, and is now confined to a limited area in the Western Ghats that may not be more than a total of even 300 sq. km. It was nice to know that the bird is now known by a local name – Nilgiri Chilappan. 

Recent research found that southern Indian laughingthrushes were not closely related to the traditional Garrulax genus of laughingthrushes found in the Himalayas. They were therefore moved to a new, distinct genus called Montecincla. As part of this reclassification, scientists and ornithologists adopted "Chilappan" a name used by local communities in Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The term "Chilappan" is now applied to all four species within the new Montecincla genus (Nilgiri, Banasura, Palani, and Ashambu), reflecting their local identity rather than the previously used, more generic "laughingthrush" names. Jai Ho!! The Nilgiri Pipit gave us a fleeting peek as he zipped in and out of his cryptic background matching its streaked plumage.

The morning was biting cold and our bodies were working harder to stay warm, driving up our craving for food. It was time for breakfast! The nearby parking area for the trek to Doddabetta peak was an ideal location where the preferred option of having toilet facilities near food stops was available. In the biting cold, Hema had wrapped herself up with all the available pieces of clothing she had on her. The only part of her face we could see were her eyes, which radiated warmth as her smile reached her eyes. Adesh suggested we should try the local chaat-like dish of boiled and roasted peanuts tossed in a tangy mixture of chopped onions, chillies and coriander with a dash of lime on top, and served hot. And what followed was literally a ‘chaat attack’!!   

The lemon tea thereafter came to our defence. And for some of us, one cup was not enough!

It was now time to head to Ooty. There was a slight drizzle as we walked from the bus to the popular Botanical Garden which is home to many resident and migratory birds. In the middle of the noisy, touristy town, the quietude of the park is a haven for our feathered friends, who don’t seem to mind the tourists enjoying the park, and probably are aware that these tourists are oblivious of their presence. We were glad the drizzle had stopped and were hoping to see some migrants and endemics here. One such bird had eluded us till now – the endemic Black and Orange Flycatcher. And he remained elusive till the end. Someone has wisely said, “accept disappointment but never lose hope.” We kept our hopes alive. 

Kashmir Flycatcher - Ficedula subrubra

As we ambled along the garden road, we noticed a tiny bird constantly flicking its wings and cocking its tail as it darted from perch to perch in the low shrubs, catching insects. It was the Kashmir Flycatcher. A rare winter visitor, migrating from Kashmir and the western Himalayas all the way south up to Sri Lanka, it inhabits a highly restricted range and is yet another species listed as Vulnerable in the IUCN Red list. Sadly, the population of the Kashmir Flycatcher too is decreasing due to habitat loss and other anthropogenic factors. Ambling in the manicured gardens, we saw other commoners like Spot-breasted fantail, Indian White-eye, Grey Wagtail, House sparrows, a Nilgiri flowerpecker, some warblers and flycatchers.

Covering an area of about 55 acres, The Government Botanical Garden in Udhagamandalam (anglicised to Ooty) has around a thousand species of both, exotic and indigenous plants, shrubs, ferns, trees, herbal and bonsai plants. In the centre of the garden there is a fossilized tree trunk estimated to be 20 million years old! A total of 60 bird species have been recorded in the garden. The garden is also home to Near Threatened species like the Black-and-Orange and Nilgiri Flycatcher and Vulnerable species like Nilgiri Pipit.

As in every Nature India outing, eating places are also chosen as meticulously as birding places. Ooty’s famous Junior Kuppanna was to be our lunch stop for the day. Known for their delectable Kongu cuisine, their legacy chart displayed in the restaurant said that the restaurant was started way back in 1960 by Thiru Kuppusamy with his wife Thirumati Rukmini Amma who were both exceptional cooks. Kuppusamy began his culinary journey as a table boy at a hotel near Erode railway station where former Tamil icons such as K. Kamaraj, MGR, NTR, Shivaji Ganesan, Jayalalitha etc. became a fan of his cooking. Finger-licking Kongu dishes were devoured within minutes. I wondered which bird had come and laid an egg on Adesh’s biryani 😊

A brief visit to a local chocolate factory and museum was followed by our evening birding session at SIM’s Park, Coonoor. This is an unusual park-cum-botanical garden that was developed around the natural contours of the land more than 150 years ago. It has native trees, shrubs and creepers as well as many unusual species of plants that have been brought in from a variety of places around the world. Some of the trees are ancient, the oldest one, a species of Eucalyptus, dates back to 1869 and another Glochidion (Cheese Tree) species has been around since 1895. The silent guardians of nature looked like sentinels of strength. I wondered how many stories must be written into their gnarled barks over the centuries!

Brown-Breasted Flycatcher - Muscicapa muttui

While we were watching a Brown-breasted  Flycatcher delicately perched on a slender branch, our attention was diverted when a large bird of prey flew past with what looked like a snake in his talons. It was the Crested Goshawk. It went and settled on a branch in the high canopy and enjoyed his meal while we watched in wonder. Then it did something unusual. After pecking at it with its razor-sharp beak, it picked up the snake in its beak and swallowed the reptile whole!! It then stretched its throat to accommodate the bulk of the meal. If the Goshawk were human, there would have been a loud burrp at the end!

Blue-capped Rock Thrush - Monticola cinclorhyncha

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher
- Culicicapa ceylonensis 

Before we called it a day, we were treated to some lovely flycatchers – Brown-breasted, Grey-headed Canary, Tickell’s Blue, Asian Brown, White-spotted Fantail, and a Blue-headed Rock thrush and Pied Wagtail.

On our last day, we woke up to heavy unseasonal showers. It didn’t look like the rain would let up. As per the plan, we were to check out with bag and baggage, do a birding session at SIM’s Park that morning after which we would head back to the plains for another afternoon session and then onward to Coimbatore for our return flight/train back home. Adesh and Jana had a quick round of discussion about the next plan of action and it was decided that we should go to the Park anyway and see what luck had in store for us. But rain had played spoilsport. Nevertheless, the weather hadn’t dampened our spirits. It was already that time of the morning that we usually break our night long fast. The shops were just about opening in the sleepy town of Coonoor. We drove up to the first restaurant we found open and broke our fast!

The rain had forced us to call off our morning session at SIM’s Park. Jana suggested we head straight for the plains as there was no prediction of rain there. We could bird there instead. So off we were to the plains. 

Yasmin and Hema had extended their trip for another two days and had booked themselves into PSY 3-star hotel in Mettupalayam. As we waited for them to drop their bags off into their rooms before joining us for the last birding session of the trip, a flock of gregarious Yellow-billed Babblers were having a noisy rendezvous in the bushes nearby.

For our birding session, Jana, in consultation with Adesh suggested the nearby Karamadai area, along the road leading to the Arulmigu Bettathamman Temple. It was a beautiful terrain, rocky in some areas and forested in others, and could yield some interesting species. An undistinguished looking Paddyfield pipit walked tall among the short grass in the open bare ground before us. 

Marshall's Iora - Aegithina nigrolutea

Our eyes soon shifted upwards as a flash of bright yellow came and landed high up on an open branch. What looked like a Common Iora to us was actually a Marshall’s or White-tailed Iora. Adesh’s experienced eyes had recognised subtle differences of the white tail edges and broader wing-bars. As we enjoyed the Iora, a familiar call echoing in the forest diverted our attention. It was the Indian Pitta giving its characteristic two-note whistle. Breeding in the central and northern parts of the Indian peninsula the Indian Pitta migrates to South India during winter. We followed the call till we spotted it foraging on forest floor in the thick undergrowth, catching insects in leaf litter. The alert bird got wind of a bunch of birders huddling up and staring at it and quickly took wing. All this bunch of birders saw, was a flash of several vibrant colours zoom across their path. Our photographers Gayatri, Jamal, Suresh had probably got some good shots. As we reached higher up the road, a vast expanse of the rocky terrain unfolded before us. Before long, Elu’s binocs had once again spotted a bird on the distant rock surface. “It’s there!” Elu’s confident observation once again made us all go, “where… where!” The bird was probably in “Pandharpur” as our Nature India family describes a place which is very far away!  Sirkeer Malkoha! Adesh was quick to identify. The bird was sprawled out on the rock surface, with its wings spread wide, basking in the warm sunlight. Many birds sunbathe like this to rid themselves of pesky parasites living on their skin and feathers or just to take in the warm sun on a cold winter day. 

White-browed Bulbul - Pycnonotus luteolus

A White-bellied Drongo sat on a high perch, while, nearby an “often heard and seldom seen” White-browed Bulbul sat in the whatever little shade it could find on an acacia tree. This time it gave a good glimpse of its pretty self. On the way back, we got some Indian Robins, Rose-ringed Parakeets, a Paradise Flycatcher in its rufous morph, some bulbuls, starlings, warblers and some Yellow-billed Babblers, this time in their natural habitat. As we were about to call it a day, the magnificent black beauty of the avian world, a Black Eagle glided gracefully in the valley before us. This was our second sighting of this beauty after watching it in the tea estates of Valparai. A truly magnificent bird, its handsome plumage is enhanced by consummate grace in flight.  And as all our eyes were on the black beauty, a Blue-faced Malkoha sat silently on an acacia tree. Suresh managed to get a good picture before it took wing on seeing us.

The afternoon sun was getting stronger and we had to make our way back for our respective return journeys home. The fast that we had broken in Coonoor, had now disappeared into the energy we had consumed climbing uphill in search of our avian friends. The Ilai Restaurant on the Mettupalayam road served us delicious authentic South Indian food which was relished down to the last morsel.

Yet another memorable trip with Nature India had come to end. It was wonderful to have a knowledgeable guide like Jana, and a driver like Arvind, who expertly manoeuvered our bus safely along sharp hairpin bends and narrow hillside roads. And my blog can’t be complete without a mention of Adesh. I consider him one of the most humble and knowledgeable ornithologists of our generation, patiently sharing his knowledge with anyone who wants to learn. I regard him as my guide and mentor. And how can I end without mentioning Mandar Khadilkar one of the two pillars of Nature India?  Though you were physically in Latpanchar, you were with us in spirit Mandar!

After a thrilling experience in the Sky Islands, my feet were now firmly on the ground in preparation to get back to the routine of my city life.

Nivedita Kotharé

7th to 11th January 2026